French Car Forum

ok will check that tomorrow thanks

ok i clicked the LHD by mistake so it seems all MK1 and 2 LHD end 13 and all MK1 and 2 RHD end 15,

regards malcolm

Thanks Richard. Will do so.

thanks mate on your list there is one by me in sutton coldfield.

bick

Some of the 1.6 hdi's do have a fap (110bhp) but not sure about 2.0 hdi.

To be honest Halfords do a 5/40 fully synthetic that I have used in every recent Citroen I have serviced, I also use it in my relay and berlingo. The price is quite good if you have a trade card.

The Halfords stuff is Coma but they are now owned by Esso I believe

next time it might be actually sold :shock:
If the final price keeps falling with each auction I might need to make room for it soon :lol:

They disappeared when the key got an immobiliser chip inside it, so no need for the codepad.

Its a good idea really, as most cars which get stolen now are taken with their keys, as they can not be started without the key. So even if someone has the Xantia key, they can't drive it away. Mind, I don't suspect there is much call to take a Xantia...

Hello... I have a '99 Xantia 2.0 HDI Activa and I have some issues about the parking sensors, I just bought a parking sensors kit and when I was going to install, I saw a problem... when I went to find out where were the positive and negative wires I realized that they were in the part of the boot that opens up... then I find out that it was at...

i had the same problem, pull cable out get some pliers on the hook and move it back and forward a lot that should un-seize it, if not get on ebay there are some caliper repair kits on there, if not a second hand break caliper, should get one for under £35 easy to fit and bleed

but it'll be the Xantia to the X rally of course 8-)

Great stuff Mark, it'll be good to see your minty Xantia in person again and properly apologise to you!

Hi Malcolm
No Its only when I'm moving through the gears. like richard says disappears once i reach certain revs. so I'm gonna go with richards theory and say its a worn injector...is this a big job and expensive....bloody mot stations lol.

I used to airsoft at Finmere airfield, and whislt working at DERA Farnborough I used to often visit Boscombe Down and have to sit waiting to cross the runway while Tornadoes did circuits and bumps. They had a very nice Lightening at the entrance gate if memory serves. I did always feel disapointed that there were never any Tie fighters parked...

Thanks for the replies.

I charged the battery last weekend, for about 16 to 24 hours. I let the battery settle for 24 hours after charging, and measured the voltage, which was 12.72V

On each day after, I checked the battery voltage, and it's always 12.6V
The Haynes manual says 12.6V is Normal , (but not Good , which would be 12.7V)
I've been...

I used a cut down cheapy gold coloured nail (the type for picture frames) to replace the snapped off plastic shaft.

Nice one, a good tip to remember, certainly far better than the original :-)

cachaciero

Just for info:
I've found that windscreen washer tubing is a good (temporary) leak-off pipe substitute. And being almost an M&M green, it adds a nice splash of colour to the basic underbonnet aluminium and black. :roll:

The silver HDI:

Interesting. Hadn't realising this the same car as went in recent auction for £575. Have to admit that had it been closer, I'd have had a serious look, though really prefer a hatchback. Yes, maybe not bad price, assuming it's exactly what it says, but knowing what it originally went for, I'm not having the guy make that much money...

My Xantia 2,0 HDI has now 260 000 miles (418000km), and still runs like a charm. (Knock on wood..) :-D
Burns NO oil. After 6000 miles since the last oil change, the oil is still brown.
Still original turbo and injectors. Not even the typical injector rattle at higher rpm:s.
I think the secret is to service it properly and to treat the car with...

I have blinds in my rear windscreen so my downward pointing exhaust may have meant I missed all the action.
Cassy's OK now though I hope?
I was draining my veg oil out today sat on a stool next to the ECU and every ten mins I heard a ticking sound from the ECU box I wasn't aware that the S2 xantia did this. weird!!
my Dads S1 VSX does though.

And it isn't any bother!

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I always assemble all my connectors with a liberal application of Wax Oyl and apply liberally around the assembled connector, pretty well guaranteed to keep moisture out and keeps rubber boots etc. supple for not a lot of cost.

cachaciero

you also risk damaging the splines through the drive flange,

i saw someone setting of to tow a BX years ago with no drive shafts fitted, Laural and Harddy came to mind as they turned the first corner both wheel bearings collapsed, what a fine mess :twisted: :shock: :roll: ,

these bearings are only held together by the CV joint being in place...

Yup, all of the seals in the car perish with age, either drying out and crumbling or getting hard and not expanding when the metal parts do.

I've seen pre-load of the rear arm bearings mentioned sometime last year on the Forum. Exactly how does one go about deciding what shim/washer is required? Just a matter of feel?

Have to admit that when I did the bearings on one arm of my TD 18 months ago, I was unaware that preload was required. Just re-used the original spacer and the...

I would avoid it like the plague, theres not many of them that dont leak water somewhere or other & as lighty says opening roof problems are big £££ to fix.
A new roof assembly is over 3 & a half grand. The roof mechanism is quite delicate & doesent take well to not being operated correctly.
If you really still want to go for it make sure the...

Hi Wheeler,

Not au fait with electronics I m afraid.
Going in to a Citroen indie on Thurs.He has an X reg being dismantled so lf it hasnt been crashed
that ECU may be OK. Will post up the outcome on Fri.

Regards
Richard

Hard to believe there were ever any non power assisted steering models of the Xantia, but there you are!

You can tell the driver of such a car. Has arms like Popeye...

And empty cans of spinach on the back seat

:lol: Seems they can't spell powered!

Hi jim
your right about the cables, Ive heard of this on picassos with a simple fix to use tie wraps, Ill ave a closer look during the week

ta for input

Sounds familiar....

Don't even think about wasing £70 on a steel OE - you won't be able to fit it in any case! Note, you probably can't buy one from the factors, as it needs a Citroen flare on the end, not a std one, and most won't have the tools to do it.

I had a better look at the car this afternoon and we could see that there is a leak from the pressure regulator return pipe and some corrosion to the other pipes but no leaks. This car had an MOT two weeks ago and failed on a number of things, it then had a retest and failed only on a faulty hazard switch. They put an advisory on the corrosion to...

They can have mine for half that...

Just needs slight attention....

:roll: :lol: :twisted:

Doh,

Jim's beaten me to it - I must learn to type more quickly :-D

Anyway, you should have enough to help you sort it out :-D

No worries Dom :)

If the looms and plugs are there under the seats and there's two yellow plugs under the console oddment tray for the heater rheostats then you have all you need to fire up the seats...

Yes, you could use V6 struts on any Hydractive Xantia although you may find them a bit stiff unless you have an ES9J4 and HP20 under the bonnet...

I might well be Ken, I will try with this a little longer and keep you posted. Thanks for the offer.

Peter

The (factory fit) imobiliser does not inhibit the fuel pump so i would rule an imobiliser issue out, you would generally get a warning on the dash to say the key is not recognised.
If you are getting no spark & no fuel pump operation I'd be directing my attention 1st to the double relay which controls the power going to the coil & the fuel pump....

Thanks Mat -

Checked with my local Cit dealer, the hoses are still availabe at a fair cost : E168177 (95 632 790) DKK 198,75 ea. incl vat
- which is some £22 ea incl vat

We've all come up against that problem at some point.
Copaslip works well and is what I use, copaslip though not copper grease which doesn't halt the galvanic corrosion. Some people favour a paper gasket which has many reports of success.
Swapping the sides is a good solution if you can, it was reported some time ago that a member here found that...

Never had a problem with any of mine and I only use fully synthetic oil, must be a duff sensor in your smoker Jim.

That would not surprise me Richard :lol: After nearly 204K I can live with it (for now... :roll: )

One more thing sorry. What is the best oil for these engines?

They say 5W-40 Mike. There was a big, long thread on it a while...

.... Have a look at the turbo outlet pipework to see if it's showing signs of oil.
It's sure too because the engine breather will blow a certain amount of oil mist into the turbo inlet (this is a TD). If you have noticeable oil consumption and you're worried about the turbo, I'd suggest several checks on how much oil is collecting in the bottom...

Disconnect the MAF sensor plug and see if it goes any better.

The MAF can certainly cause this and it's understandable that the garages cannot diagnose it as the MAF sensor does not generally pop up a nice, easy fool-proof fault code. The only way to see a duff MAF is to use a pukka Lexia diagnostic and observe the live data from it. A duff one...

sorted it today a better look with bore scope it turned out to be the top pipe fitted a new piece of pipe and pushed the plastic pipe in it. awkward to get clip off wasn't able to get a new clip on but have been driving a bit and seems to be holding
thanks lad
nick

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Well done and thanks for letting us know.

Peter

A month or so later, I finally got round to looking at this. Nothing obvious, so I played with the connectors a bit and it's no longer complaining. Rather less of a disco light effect on the dashboard :-)

Thanks to all for the advice, esp. which seat to check.

Hi, your absolutely right i'd forgotton that we had mostly used a punch to chip away at the bolt and tap stump and a then a rotary carbide file (several) mounted on a drill to very slowly burr a hole through the tap and then break it down, taking care not to loose the thread.

The main causes of gasket failures on an XUD are overheating or gasket corrosion.

Overheating, apart from the obvious failed fans can be caused by coolant change neglect too, this then starts to restrict / clog up small passages. The return pipe (with the bleed in it on the thermostat housing, worse on ones with a brass bleed screw and a stub)...