French Car Forum

does it have a little shocker on the throttle lever ? if so take it off & throw it away.

Those wheel bearings aren't adjustable so what the garage were trying to achieve is a bit of a mystery, once they have play in them its there for good.
To get the drum off, shove a screwdriver through a wheel bolt hole at roughly the 20 past position for the near side and 20 to for the off side, you need to find the handbrake lever inside the drum...

Measure the travel from highest point to the floor. It should be 130 to 150mm. If it's out, undo the lock nut at the gearbox end of the cable, then turn the adjustment nut backwards/forwards until the measurement at the pedal is correct. The clutch pedal will always be higher than the brake. Before measuring, press the pedal down several times.

Your problem could lie within the ignition switch, but before doing anything about that, I would remove the battery terminals and give them a clean. Then move on to the other ends of the battery cables. Make sure the battery is earthing properly and clean the connection on the starter.

Hi,
A friend of mine wants to know if it would be possible to to replace a petrol/auto engine/box for a diesel/manual.
Is this possible? If so, what problems is he likely to face and has anybody got any tips or tricks for this?
Cheers, Jason

SOUNDS LIKE HEAD GASKET HAS GONE

Could you explian in more detail please

Paul -
Since it's a carb'ed engine, it will, no matter the make, suffer the standard carb problems.
It's been 10y's now with that poor car, exposed to every day hard work, w/o any love at all !
The carb is fitted with an electrovalve, anti run-on valve, which can be a teaser. Check it's cable connection, which must be perfect. A failing valve...

give more information ,year? engine?

Russ -
This symptom could be indicative for an imbalanced drive axle, or a worn CV joint.
It could also simply be an imbalance problem on one of the front tyres. Even a defective tyre.
Some 6y's ago I had exactly the same symptom on my CX, which also is a PSA construction. In my case the symptom came rather suddenly, weak but annoying, and slowly...

sounds serious. could be suspension damage. definately get it checked proffesionally soon, as it probably wont be an easy job to sort out, and sounds very dangerous.

I've never looked under the bonnet of a 405 - but would you get some working room if you stuck a jack under the sump (suitably padded) and loosened off the top engine mount. You could then allow the engine to roll forward.

sounds like a faulty front door latch (but which one ?),disconecting each door in turn is'nt always a good indication of which side is at fault, what happens when you lock each side with the key ?

Car failed on MOT retest, even after a cleanup of the brakes.
Same thing... car was on the rolling road, front brakes caused the car to virtually fly off, rears did hardly anything.
I'm starting to think that the calipers are knackered. The binding pads could be caused by the piston not retracting. Can anyone describe how 'smooth' the retraction...

What I mean with AC fan above is the heater fan...

Hi Guys, I've just bought a 98 r reg 2.0 litre coupe which has an intermittent starting problem. Sometimes the car will turn over perfectly but just not start. If i switch off and start again it will start within the next 2 or 3 attempts. There is no pattern to when it does this and I have replaced the coil pack but to no avail. Also the red light...

Get yourself a new radiator switch. Andyspares do one for around £8.

Fairly straight foward. You'll need a 30mm socket with a long lever to undo the hub nuts and new ones to put on at the finish.

Definetly sounds like a NO BOOST problem
Could be one of the following
Wastegate stuck open = NO BOOST
Turbocharger shaft seized = NO BOOST

DONT THINK YOU HAVE ANYTHING TO WORRK ABOUT ALL ENGINES USE OIL TO SOME DEGREE. MANUFACTURES ALLOW 1LTR PER 500 MILES

Hi mate.. well, regarding the PUG Partner... I suppose you are thinking of buying one eh?
Well, as it happens I changed an engine in one today - well, the last 3 days!!! What a PIG of a job! ( Diesel ) non turbo..
the original engine was goosed...and there were signs to show that that engine wasnt exactly original ... so in its previous life its...

I just went through the 14 pages of discussions, and I have found some ideas on where my husband can start to look.
Also, My heater only works in the defrost position. I turn it any other way, and it does not leave the defrost area. Is that very hard to fix?
Also, I've noticed that many of you are from the UK area. Since the steeing wheel is on...

Hi Darren.... providing your smoke isnt making things invisible for other motorists -- you wont fail the mot on that... its emmissions - co hc's etc are what the mot is looking at. I wouldnt know whats caused it from what you describe as to the onset.. but it may be worth giving the engine a flush and some oil seal additives - just in case its...

Hi.. I got your e,mail... I'll get back to you asap..mike

Over the past few days I've noticed that the accelerator pedal seems a lot stiffer to depress than normal. The car doesn't seem to be quite as responsive as it normally is and the revs seem to take longer to drop when I take my foot off the pedal.
The problem is most obvious when I first start up the car.
Any ideas?

Which pump is it, and what are the symptoms.
Dave

Have you had a gander at the online shop, they are sold here.
You can of course go to your local branch of GSF and get one, will be cheaper than the main dealers I would imagine, especialy for what you get, controler and two new plips.
Batteries are sold here too.
Dave

Because of US laws and americans habit of not being responsible for themselves and their doings (& then suing anyone else), Haynes has becoming more vague over the years .
Try your owners manual brieflet. Usually you find advice on how to find the relays and fuses here.

The brushes should be about the same length, poerhaps the longer one is partially seized in the holder? Try your local branch of LSUK (formerly Lucas)for parts. They'll sell you the parts cheaply, or fit them for you, not so cheaply as they charge a minimum 1 hours labour (£35 at my local branch). Its probably worth getting the bearings done at...

You could first of all supply power to the lead that feeds the clutch & see if you can hear it click in. If it clicks, remove power source immediately. Then put a meter across the terminals of the switchs on top of the receiver dryer. If it is fitted with a dual switch, one should be in circuit to tell it that it has gas in the system the other...

Hi Darren -
First of all you MUST have access to a multimeter. A simple hobbyist multimeter should not cost you more than some £8 in a supermarket or DIY store - but the help using such a tool is worth 10 times more .
Here goes a step-by-step fault tracing the ignition on a PSA (or any) car :
In the following, the term +12V is a voltage ranging...

Problem was heater fan staying on even when ignition turned off. The ignition switch checked OK, as did the heater relay, but the heater relay was mysteriously energised from somewhere. After 2 days searching the problem turned out to be a wet and corroded connector plug on the radiator fan (mounted at nearside bottom of radiator housing)- nothing...

I have a 94 L reg 405 GLX estate. The car sometimes 'judders' when accelerating in 5th gear. This only happens between 40-50 mph. It stops if you back off on the accelerator. Does not occure in any other gear. Does anyone know what the problem could be?

If you can borrow a known good air flow meter off someone & give that a try I think you'll live happily ever after.
The carbon tracks can short & cause similar problems. There are ways of adjusting them that can often cause erratic idling in conjunction with heavier than normal fuel consumption.
Doubly check those intake hoses as well as intake...

Sounds like the contacts have fused together in the ignition switch, how did you check it.
Dave

Can anyone tell me if there are any difference's between the 106xsi bodyshell and the std.106 bodyshell, if any??
sooty

I think this is a common problem with the design of the rear trailing arm/torsion bar suspension as a 305, two 309's, a 205 and my current 306 exihibits similar characturistics. I.e. creaking rear suspension.
One school of thought says it could be the rear brake shoes. When the vehicles handbrake is applied, and the car is on a hill the car will...

hi guys,
i drive a j reg 605. someone reversed into my drivers side h/lamp and cracked it together with the parking lamp. i'm now toying with the idea of changing both the h/lamps with that of the 605 facelift model. has anyone got a clue if this can be done without changing the fender, bonnet and grill?
would appreciate any suggestion.
thanks in...

quote:
can anyone help when i use the keyfob to lock the doors the doors lock then unlock its driving me nuts

Just a thought.....does this occur on the passenger side as well? If so could it be a problem with one lock/motor only?

I need to change the front suspension bushes (both front and rear bushes found on the lower wishbone arms) is this a relatively easy job? will I need any specific tools or is really a job for a garage??? cheers
the car is a series 1 106......
m chapman

Is the sunroof motor accessible? Some citroens have a cover over the motor section which holds an allen key. After disengaging a metal rod the allen key can be inserted into the centre of a spindle and used to operate the mechanism manually - this can prove better at defeating sunroof cling than using the electrics.

Bought a second hand diesel this week, and there is no doubt it needs a service.There is no history.
The dipstick appears to have minute droplets of water on, and the coolant seems to have a very thin skin on , a bit like soluble oil.
The exhaust smokes mildly (light greyish) every time you accelerate.
Any reason to panic ? I am most concerned...

Total oil is good stuff.
A 5L of Quartz 7000 Diesel SemiSynth (diesels deserve good oil too) should cost about 10-12 pounds.
Failing that Quartz 5000 mineral will probably suffice, if you are doing hot miles and regular servicing.

I don't know about the UK, but in New Zealand it is illegal (and also a bit dangerous) to modify any SRS wiring or components. If you take it to the agents they will replace it with new parts that will quite possibly cause the same fault in the near future. Apparently PSA would rather sell more parts then redesign this obviously poorly designed...

You will probably find this is not straight forward. When I worked in the dealers we always needed to know everything from the dash binnacle.i.e Make? Vdo, Jaeger etc. Ref numbers on the speedo the backing holders are different the circuit boards again different and the wiring loom for the dash also. So looks as if this would not be straight...

my electric sunroof has one button only and a space next to it where it looks like another button fits anyhow i press this button whirring noise only ita a webatso can anybody advise also when going over dips in road surface the susp groans any ideas thanks recently motd

Breaking - 1986 Pug 205 GTi 1.6. It's been stripped out for racing but we've got bored of it. Car runs, but needs tuned so we're either selling it complete (MOT till end of March, taxed till end of Feb) or breaking it for spares.
It has brand new belts inc timing belt. Brand new battery. 1 year old starter motor, alternator and exhaust (peco back...

Breaking - 1986 Pug 205 GTi 1.6. It's been stripped out for racing but we've got bored of it. Car runs, but needs tuned so we're either selling it complete (MOT till end of March, taxed till end of Feb) or breaking it for spares.
It has brand new belts inc timing belt. Brand new battery. 1 year old starter motor, alternator and exhaust (peco back...

405 gearbox just recently my gearbox 1.6 pet has refused to disengage from 1st and 2nd gears this has been while vehicle stood overnight ie v cold car left in reverse i have to stop then give stick a clout perfect once running any ideas?

The seatbelt question I'm sorry can not answer. But the cold start might be due to a Cold start sensor. This is situated under the distributor and is a 2 pin blue coloured switch. The switch is available from Andyspares/Gsf part number B93490 @ £11.75. For the small price this is well worth trying first, basically it tells the system to work on...