AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement

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DHallworth
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AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement

Post by DHallworth »

Due to walking away from the C6 I went to see last week, part of me thinks I'm better off with the car I know and sorting it out...

I've had my 3.0HDi 407 Coupe for 3.5 years now and just recently it's started banging into gears, primarily, 3rd and 4th. I spoke to a gearbox place this morning who can supply the parts and they reckon that there's a very high likelihood that the fault lies within the valve block that's mounted on the front of the gearbox.

Apparently the gearbox in my car is the Aisin Warner TF80SC. I can get a new valve block for £525 + VAT from them and I've found one on eBay for similar money. Both are brand new.

Looking under the car, it looks like I'd need to drop the sump off the gearbox and then take the valve block off. Does anyone know any more information about doing the job though? The gearbox will need filling afterwards but I'm not sure how you check the level on it, I've also read the ECU will need reinitialised for the new valve block as well.

If anyone can shed any light on the process I'd be grateful.

Thanks,

David.

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NewcastleFalcon
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement

Post by NewcastleFalcon »

The same box is fitted to many cars and you are welcome to pick out what you can from my own Aisin TF80-SC story on this thread on the Vectra C forum. Maybe a couple of links there which could be useful. Have run the box for 160,000 miles since the rebuild. In Vauxhall circles it is known as an AF40-6 but its the same box.

https://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthre ... ledge-AF40

Parts catalogue Automatic Choice link
https://www.automaticchoice.com/en/tran ... -80sc-af40

Sonnax Valve body illustration
https://www.automaticchoice.com/uploads ... f-80sc.pdf

Sussex Autoparts OE Valve Bodies
https://www.sussexautos.co.uk/valvebodies.php



REgards Neil

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GiveMeABreak
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement

Post by GiveMeABreak »

I'll put a guide as it relates to your specific Coupe shortly David - I have the VIN already.

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GiveMeABreak
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement

Post by GiveMeABreak »

Ok so this is the Procedure to:

Remove and Refit the AM6 Hydraulic Block and Solenoid Valves

This relates to a Peugeot 407 Coupe 3.0 HDi and is in 2 parts, the actual removal and refitting part and the draining and refilling of the AM6. I have therefore edited these together so that they flow logically (I hope)!


Lift and support the vehicle.
Disconnect the ancillaries battery. (BSI Reset / Battery Disconnect / Reconnect Procedure)
Remove:
  • The air filter casing
  • The protective panel under the engine
Next the AM6 box has to be partially drained (the oil change is partial, since the converter cannot be totally drained).

AM6 Drain Procedure

Recommended Tool
DH DRF A.PNG
DH DRF A.PNG (45.78 KiB) Viewed 410 times
Topping up Cylinder
Note: The gearbox must be drained when the oil is hot (60 °C minimum), to eliminate the impurities suspended in the oil.
DH DRF B.PNG
Remove:
The protective panel under the engine
The top-up plug (2) using a TORX socket wrench
The oil overflow and drainage plug (1) using a 6 -sided wrench

Note: Approximately 3 litres of oil should flow out.

Hydraulic Block Solenoid Valve Procedure continues:

Move the power steering circuit to one side (according to engine).
DH A.PNG
DH B.PNG
CAUTION: The casing of the hydraulic block contains about 0.5 l of oil.

Remove:
  • The 11 hydraulic block housing fixing bolts
  • The hydraulic block casing
Note: The hydraulic block housing is fitted using jointing compound.
Unplug:
  • The 8 solenoid valve connectors (at "a") using a thin screwdriver
  • The 2 connectors of the speed sensors (at "b")
Unclip the electrical harness (at "c").
DH C.PNG
DH D.PNG
Detach the 2 connectors from the speed sensors (at "d") using a thin screwdriver.N.B.: The oil temperature sensor (3) is integral with the electrical harness.
Remove:
  • The (2) bolt
  • The bracket (1)
  • The oil temperature sensor (3)
DH E.PNG
DH F.PNG
Retain the electrical harnesses on the box casing (at "e") using pieces of adhesive tape.Remove:
  • The bolts (4)
  • The cover (5)
DH G.PNG
DH H.PNG
Remove the 6 bolts (6) (In the order from 1 to 6).CAUTION: Handle the hydraulic block with care
and protect it against any source of contamination.

CAUTION: Keep in place the manual valve
of the hydraulic valve block.
[/b]

Remove the hydraulic block housing, disengaging the rod (7).
Location of the solenoid valves in the hydraulic block
DH I.PNG
(8) Torque converter bypass pressure modulation solenoid valve .
(9) Clutch pressure modulation solenoid valve "C3".
(10) Brake pressure modulation solenoid valve "B1".
(11) "S1" sequential solenoid valve.
(12) "S2" sequential solenoid valve.
(13) Line pressure modulation solenoid valve.
(14) Clutch pressure modulation solenoid valve "C2".
(15) Clutch pressure modulation solenoid valve "C1".
Refitting

Note! Tightening Torques below are specific to the generation of the AM6 fitted to the 407. Check the Oil cooler shape to determine which you have fitted and use the appropriate table:

Tightening Torques
DH AM6 Non 3Rd Gen.PNG
All AM6 Versions Except 3rd Generation
DH AM6 3Rd Gen.PNG
3rd Generation AM6 only
ReferenceDesignationTightening torque
(1)Plug (Oil filler cap)4 daNm
(2)bolts (Hydraulic block housing)1,5 daNm
(3)bolts (Heat exchanger)4,2 daNm
ReferenceDesignationTightening torque
(4)Plug (Oil filler cap)4 daNm
(5)bolts (Hydraulic block housing)1,5 daNm
(6)bolts (Heat exchanger)1,5 daNm
DH J.PNG
Refit the hydraulic block, engaging rod (7) in the selector lever.
CAUTION: Do not pinch the electrical harnesses of the speed sensors.

Refit:
  • The 6 bolts (6) (Finger tighten)
  • The cover (5) (With a new seal)
  • The 2 bolts (4) (Finger tighten)
  • The oil temperature sensor (3)
  • The bracket (1)
  • The (2) bolt
Clip in place:
  • The 2 connectors of the speed sensors (at "d")
  • The electrical harness (at "c")
Connect:
  • The 2 connectors of the speed sensors (at "b")
  • The 8 solenoid valve connectors (at "a")

Cautions:
  1. Check the positioning and the fixings of the wiring harness .
  2. Check that the gear selection control functions in all the positions.
  3. Clean and degrease the seal faces of the casings in order to obtain surfaces that are dry and free of traces of sealing paste.
  4. Apply a strip of Loctite 5910 - Quik Gasket sealing paste on the gearbox casing.
Refit:
  • The hydraulic block casing
  • The 11 hydraulic block housing fixing bolts
Position the power steering circuit (according to engine).
Refit:
  • The air filter housing
  • The protective panel under the engine
Reconnect the ancillaries battery. (Refer to Battery reconnection procedure earlier in the Procedure)

Refilling the AM6

Refit:
  • The oil overflow and drainage plug (1) (equipped with a new seal)
  • The top-up plug (2) using a TORX socket wrench
DH DRF C.PNG
Remove:
  • The air filter housing
  • The filler cap (3)
Use tool [0340].
CAUTION: The oil type "AW-1" in AT6 and AM6 gearboxes with engine version Euro 5 is specific and cannot be replaced with oil type ""JWS 3309"".

Dry gearbox oil capacity: 7 litres (approx.).
Type of oil (Red):
  • EURO 5 engine: AW-1 oil
  • EURO 4 engine: JWS 3309 ESSO oil
Volume of oil remaining after draining: 4 litres (approx.).
Quantity of oil to be replaced: 3 litres (approx.).

Refit the filler plug (3) (equipped with a new seal).
Initialise the used oil counter (follow the diagnostic tool procedure).

Check The Oil Level

Prior conditions:
  • Vehicle level
  • Check that the gearbox is not in downgrade mode
  • Remove the filler plug (3)
  • Add 0.5 additional litres of oil in the gearbox
  • Apply the brakes firmly and move the lever through the various selector positions
  • Gear lever in position "P"
  • Engine running at idle
  • Oil temperature 60°C (+8 to -2 °C) (measuring of parameters using a diagnostic tool)
Remove the oil level plug (2).

Stream of oil then reducing to a sequence of drips:
  • Refit the oil level plug (2).
Sequence of drips or nothing
  • Refit the oil level plug (2).
  • Stop the engine.
  • Add 0.5 additional litres of oil in the gearbox.
  • Repeat the top-up procedure.
Note: The level of oil is correct when the stream of oil becomes drop by drop.
Refit the oil level plug (2) (equipped with a new seal).

Check the oil level (continued)
Refit:
  • The filler cap (3) (equipped with a new seal)
  • The air filter box
  • The protective panel under the engine
Too high a fluid level can cause:
  • Overheating of the fluid
  • Fluid leaks
Too low a level will lead to destruction of the gearbox.

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myglaren
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement

Post by myglaren »

Daunting.
It would be simpler to construct a space shuttle in your garden shed.

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DHallworth
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement

Post by DHallworth »

Thanks Marc, it looks as though as long as I follow those instructions methodically, not to bad a job.

I can't work out whether or not to take a chance on a valve block (£525 + VAT), take a risk on a second hand box from eBay and remove the valve block (£250) or I've just been told tonight I can buy the solenoids in pairs as well. I've not looked and not found a price for them yet.

David.

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DHallworth
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement

Post by DHallworth »


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DHallworth
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement

Post by DHallworth »

Well, I went to remove the valve block last night and very quickly established that the valve block isn't the issue - the oil cooler has burst and the results look to be pretty catastrophic.

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=29757&p=624445#p624445

David.