Due to walking away from the C6 I went to see last week, part of me thinks I'm better off with the car I know and sorting it out...
I've had my 3.0HDi 407 Coupe for 3.5 years now and just recently it's started banging into gears, primarily, 3rd and 4th. I spoke to a gearbox place this morning who can supply the parts and they reckon that there's a very high likelihood that the fault lies within the valve block that's mounted on the front of the gearbox.
Apparently the gearbox in my car is the Aisin Warner TF80SC. I can get a new valve block for £525 + VAT from them and I've found one on eBay for similar money. Both are brand new.
Looking under the car, it looks like I'd need to drop the sump off the gearbox and then take the valve block off. Does anyone know any more information about doing the job though? The gearbox will need filling afterwards but I'm not sure how you check the level on it, I've also read the ECU will need reinitialised for the new valve block as well.
If anyone can shed any light on the process I'd be grateful.
Thanks,
David.
AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement
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AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement
The same box is fitted to many cars and you are welcome to pick out what you can from my own Aisin TF80-SC story on this thread on the Vectra C forum. Maybe a couple of links there which could be useful. Have run the box for 160,000 miles since the rebuild. In Vauxhall circles it is known as an AF40-6 but its the same box.
https://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthre ... ledge-AF40
Parts catalogue Automatic Choice link
https://www.automaticchoice.com/en/tran ... -80sc-af40
Sonnax Valve body illustration
https://www.automaticchoice.com/uploads ... f-80sc.pdf
Sussex Autoparts OE Valve Bodies
https://www.sussexautos.co.uk/valvebodies.php
REgards Neil
https://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthre ... ledge-AF40
Parts catalogue Automatic Choice link
https://www.automaticchoice.com/en/tran ... -80sc-af40
Sonnax Valve body illustration
https://www.automaticchoice.com/uploads ... f-80sc.pdf
Sussex Autoparts OE Valve Bodies
https://www.sussexautos.co.uk/valvebodies.php
REgards Neil
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement
I'll put a guide as it relates to your specific Coupe shortly David - I have the VIN already.
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement
Ok so this is the Procedure to:
Remove and Refit the AM6 Hydraulic Block and Solenoid Valves
This relates to a Peugeot 407 Coupe 3.0 HDi and is in 2 parts, the actual removal and refitting part and the draining and refilling of the AM6. I have therefore edited these together so that they flow logically (I hope)!
Lift and support the vehicle.
Disconnect the ancillaries battery. (BSI Reset / Battery Disconnect / Reconnect Procedure)
Remove:
AM6 Drain Procedure
Recommended Tool
Note: The gearbox must be drained when the oil is hot (60 °C minimum), to eliminate the impurities suspended in the oil.
Hydraulic Block Solenoid Valve Procedure continues:
Move the power steering circuit to one side (according to engine).
Location of the solenoid valves in the hydraulic block
Refitting
Note! Tightening Torques below are specific to the generation of the AM6 fitted to the 407. Check the Oil cooler shape to determine which you have fitted and use the appropriate table:
Tightening Torques
Cautions:
Refit:
Refilling the AM6
Refit:
CAUTION: The oil type "AW-1" in AT6 and AM6 gearboxes with engine version Euro 5 is specific and cannot be replaced with oil type ""JWS 3309"".
Dry gearbox oil capacity: 7 litres (approx.).
Type of oil (Red):
Quantity of oil to be replaced: 3 litres (approx.).
Refit the filler plug (3) (equipped with a new seal).
Initialise the used oil counter (follow the diagnostic tool procedure).
Check The Oil Level
Prior conditions:
Stream of oil then reducing to a sequence of drips:
Refit the oil level plug (2) (equipped with a new seal).
Check the oil level (continued)
Refit:
Remove and Refit the AM6 Hydraulic Block and Solenoid Valves
This relates to a Peugeot 407 Coupe 3.0 HDi and is in 2 parts, the actual removal and refitting part and the draining and refilling of the AM6. I have therefore edited these together so that they flow logically (I hope)!
Lift and support the vehicle.
Disconnect the ancillaries battery. (BSI Reset / Battery Disconnect / Reconnect Procedure)
Remove:
- The air filter casing
- The protective panel under the engine
AM6 Drain Procedure
Recommended Tool
Topping up Cylinder |
Remove: The protective panel under the engine The top-up plug (2) using a TORX socket wrench The oil overflow and drainage plug (1) using a 6 -sided wrench Note: Approximately 3 litres of oil should flow out. |
Hydraulic Block Solenoid Valve Procedure continues:
Move the power steering circuit to one side (according to engine).
CAUTION: The casing of the hydraulic block contains about 0.5 l of oil. Remove:
| Unplug:
|
Detach the 2 connectors from the speed sensors (at "d") using a thin screwdriver. | N.B.: The oil temperature sensor (3) is integral with the electrical harness. Remove:
|
Retain the electrical harnesses on the box casing (at "e") using pieces of adhesive tape. | Remove:
|
Remove the 6 bolts (6) (In the order from 1 to 6). | CAUTION: Handle the hydraulic block with care and protect it against any source of contamination. CAUTION: Keep in place the manual valve of the hydraulic valve block.[/b] Remove the hydraulic block housing, disengaging the rod (7). |
(8) Torque converter bypass pressure modulation solenoid valve . (9) Clutch pressure modulation solenoid valve "C3". (10) Brake pressure modulation solenoid valve "B1". (11) "S1" sequential solenoid valve. (12) "S2" sequential solenoid valve. (13) Line pressure modulation solenoid valve. (14) Clutch pressure modulation solenoid valve "C2". (15) Clutch pressure modulation solenoid valve "C1". |
Note! Tightening Torques below are specific to the generation of the AM6 fitted to the 407. Check the Oil cooler shape to determine which you have fitted and use the appropriate table:
Tightening Torques
Except 3rd Generation | All AM6 Versions3rd Generation AM6 only | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
Refit the hydraulic block, engaging rod (7) in the selector lever. CAUTION: Do not pinch the electrical harnesses of the speed sensors. Refit:
|
Cautions:
- Check the positioning and the fixings of the wiring harness .
- Check that the gear selection control functions in all the positions.
- Clean and degrease the seal faces of the casings in order to obtain surfaces that are dry and free of traces of sealing paste.
- Apply a strip of Loctite 5910 - Quik Gasket sealing paste on the gearbox casing.
- The hydraulic block casing
- The 11 hydraulic block housing fixing bolts
Refit:
- The air filter housing
- The protective panel under the engine
Refilling the AM6
Refit:
- The oil overflow and drainage plug (1) (equipped with a new seal)
- The top-up plug (2) using a TORX socket wrench
Remove:
|
Dry gearbox oil capacity: 7 litres (approx.).
Type of oil (Red):
- EURO 5 engine: AW-1 oil
- EURO 4 engine: JWS 3309 ESSO oil
Quantity of oil to be replaced: 3 litres (approx.).
Refit the filler plug (3) (equipped with a new seal).
Initialise the used oil counter (follow the diagnostic tool procedure).
Check The Oil Level
Prior conditions:
- Vehicle level
- Check that the gearbox is not in downgrade mode
- Remove the filler plug (3)
- Add 0.5 additional litres of oil in the gearbox
- Apply the brakes firmly and move the lever through the various selector positions
- Gear lever in position "P"
- Engine running at idle
- Oil temperature 60°C (+8 to -2 °C) (measuring of parameters using a diagnostic tool)
Stream of oil then reducing to a sequence of drips:
- Refit the oil level plug (2).
- Refit the oil level plug (2).
- Stop the engine.
- Add 0.5 additional litres of oil in the gearbox.
- Repeat the top-up procedure.
Refit the oil level plug (2) (equipped with a new seal).
Check the oil level (continued)
Refit:
- The filler cap (3) (equipped with a new seal)
- The air filter box
- The protective panel under the engine
- Overheating of the fluid
- Fluid leaks
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement
Daunting.
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement
Thanks Marc, it looks as though as long as I follow those instructions methodically, not to bad a job.
I can't work out whether or not to take a chance on a valve block (£525 + VAT), take a risk on a second hand box from eBay and remove the valve block (£250) or I've just been told tonight I can buy the solenoids in pairs as well. I've not looked and not found a price for them yet.
David.
I can't work out whether or not to take a chance on a valve block (£525 + VAT), take a risk on a second hand box from eBay and remove the valve block (£250) or I've just been told tonight I can buy the solenoids in pairs as well. I've not looked and not found a price for them yet.
David.
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement
'98 Xantia Activa V6
'00 XM V6 Exclusive
'09 C5 2.7 HDi Exclusive
‘10 C5 3.0 HDi Exclusive
'12 C6 3.0 HDi Exclusive
'15 C4 BlueHDi Feel
'00 XM V6 Exclusive
'09 C5 2.7 HDi Exclusive
‘10 C5 3.0 HDi Exclusive
'12 C6 3.0 HDi Exclusive
'15 C4 BlueHDi Feel
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement
Well, I went to remove the valve block last night and very quickly established that the valve block isn't the issue - the oil cooler has burst and the results look to be pretty catastrophic.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=29757&p=624445#p624445
David.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=29757&p=624445#p624445
David.
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement
I wanted to reserect this post simply because of Marc's amazing detail above.
We have a 2006 2.0 16v hdi 6 speed c5..
When cold it's well perfect... all gears.. reverse.. perfect..
When hot she bangs into R .. from D ... on the change from D to R there's a pause... then bang
So.. something I assume is sticking in the valve block when warm. Its had two fluid changes. But my Q is which valve or solinoid is for R .. ?
We have a 2006 2.0 16v hdi 6 speed c5..
When cold it's well perfect... all gears.. reverse.. perfect..
When hot she bangs into R .. from D ... on the change from D to R there's a pause... then bang
So.. something I assume is sticking in the valve block when warm. Its had two fluid changes. But my Q is which valve or solinoid is for R .. ?
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement
I believe that many who have these replaced, have the entire valve block replaced done Paul as it covers the lot.
Have a look at the symptoms to diagnose here Paul, Eurocarcare.net have a good description of what you are experiencing:
https://www.eurocarcare.net/blog/am6c-g ... ssues.html
Have a look at the symptoms to diagnose here Paul, Eurocarcare.net have a good description of what you are experiencing:
https://www.eurocarcare.net/blog/am6c-g ... ssues.html
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement
It's worse now with new fluid.. floating revs.. banging in 4th to 5th. Etc.. so.. I'm gonna get the valve block out.
I watched a video on you tube and there appears to be no soft gaskets in the valve block unlike the zf4hp18 valve block. I watched a fella rebuild a whole box including assembling the 3 half's of the valve block was quite interesting.
I watched a video on you tube and there appears to be no soft gaskets in the valve block unlike the zf4hp18 valve block. I watched a fella rebuild a whole box including assembling the 3 half's of the valve block was quite interesting.
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
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Re: AM6 Gearbox Valve Block Replacement
citroenxm wrote: ↑26 Jan 2022, 17:46 I wanted to reserect this post simply because of Marc's amazing detail above.
We have a 2006 2.0 16v hdi 6 speed c5..
When cold it's well perfect... all gears.. reverse.. perfect..
When hot she bangs into R .. from D ... on the change from D to R there's a pause... then bang
So.. something I assume is sticking in the valve block when warm. Its had two fluid changes. But my Q is which valve or solinoid is for R .. ?
Hello !
I have exactly the same symptoms on my Citroen C6 2.7 with 200.000 kmon the clock.
Can somebody confirm, that replacing the hydraulic valve plate will solve the problem ?
Any cheaper solution?
Many thx and best regards,
Matjaz, Slovenia