09 C5 x7 2.0hdi Auto Driveshaft replacement

[GiveMeABreak]

I had a feeling that was coming

Part no: 693684 lower ARB nut. (5)

Part no: 693665 (4)

Already dealt with parts (4) and (5) Richard the Drop bar link - that is number (5)

The issue is with item number one of the pivot support..... That is part of the suspension strut.

The bit is (1) highlighted in Red

[bobins]

Depending on where you look, the nuts are either special flanged nuts (genuine PSA), or standard nyloc with/without a washer. I have a feeling the genuine ones aren't standard thread, no idea of non-genuine ones though.


eBay - fair use


eBay - fair use

[RichardW]

I had a feeling that was coming

Part no: 693684 lower ARB nut. (5)

Part no: 693665 (4)

Already dealt with parts (4) and (5) Richard the Drop bar link - that is number (5)

The issue is with item number one of the pivot support..... That is part of the suspension strut.

The bit is (1) highlighted in Red

Pivot.PNG

Which is the bit I posted - the bottom of the strut is held to the hub carrier by the top of the drop link (see the pics Bobbins posted with the long bar on the top end of the link), hence the nut (1) is shown on the ARB page....

[GiveMeABreak]

Oh of course, I see it now, apologies Richard, that would explain why there is no separate part and the top of the drop link having a very long screw,

It must be the current topical events causing me to have a Top Hat moment!

[RichardW]

[Jim66a]

I changed my driveshafts over the weekend, The job went really well. My only issue was the passenger side arb drop link lower ball joint was just spinning and the hex was rounded off. I had replacement drop links so was able to get the mole grips in to hold it. The rest all behaved and came undone.
The job has resolved my knocking while steering was turned and vibration issue too. Drivers side inner uj was real stiff.
Thank you everyone for all your time, help and advice.

[MattBLancs]

Jim, Here's the guide on doing the Driveshaft Operation on your C5 X7 with AM6. ....

Right Hand Driveshaft

• Undo the 2 screws (9) of the RH driveshaft bearing.
• Move aside the circlip (10) in the direction of the arrow "a".
• Release the RH driveshaft by pivoting the front half-axle upwards.
• Remove the right-hand drive shaft.

...

(Hopefully editted that down correctly, not easy on the phone!)

Just diving in to this job (on my similar 2.2 ML6 equipped CT X7)

Note, a refinement to the above: The top fixing ( number 9 - says to "undo" ) of the driveshaft "circlip" doesn't need to be removed completely, only loosen enough to slide out the circlip which is slotted in this bolt position. This may pose a blessed relief given quite how poor access in this area seems to be!

Matt

[Clunk84]

Hi Guys how have I not found this forum sooner !! I’m looking to change my ns driveshaft on my 09 c5 x7 and I’m going to have to depressurise the manual way … could anyone inform me please how much old fluid I am likely to lose from the process so I can get some in advance and also do I have to do both axles or just the front …?
Thanks in Advance
Regards
Rob

[GiveMeABreak]

Hi Rob

You shouldn't loose too much fluid to be honest, but I'd hae at least a litre of LDS handy - just don't re-use any fluid recovered.
Each axle can be separately depressurised - see my post here:

viewtopic.php?p=602312#p602312

[mikedrop]

Great info on this page guys, thank you!

I'm about to tackle replacing driveshaft on drivers side (RHD) of my manual C5 2.0HDI 160. The guide makes sense. How critical is it to depressurise the axle? I've recently replaced the wheel bearing, bottom swivel bearing and rear wishbone bush without depressurising. I just need to know whether it's critical so I can order some LDS fluid

Cheers
Mike

ETA - I've just read this post and assume it's for safety, rather than access. viewtopic.php?t=74271

[GiveMeABreak]

Mike, the reason why the circuit is depressurised is because officially, the operation is done with the vehicle being lifted off the ground where the wheels will be hanging freely, so this is to avoid the problems of potentially burst LDS tanks associated when the vehicle is lowered back to the ground (see this post for reference: viewtopic.php?t=62058). I suspect it make the job easier if the system is not under pressure on the front axle, as remember the suspension circuit is still active without the engine running, so it can still start height correction even with the engine switched off.

However if you are planning on doing the operation with the vehicle on the ground with just the front corner raised you may get away with it. I think I put a guide up here:

viewtopic.php?p=579003#p579003

[mikedrop]

Mike, the reason why the circuit is depressurised is because officially, the operation is done with the vehicle being lifted off the ground where the wheels will be hanging freely, so this is to avoid the problems of potentially burst LDS tanks associated when the vehicle is lowered back to the ground (see this post for reference: viewtopic.php?t=62058). I suspect it make the job easier if the system is not under pressure on the front axle, as remember the suspension circuit is still active without the engine running, so it can still start height correction even with the engine switched off.

However if you are planning on doing the operation with the vehicle on the ground with just the front corner raised you may get away with it. I think I put a guide up here:

viewtopic.php?p=579003#p579003

Thank you for that! Appreciate it! I'll get the parts ordered and report back

[mikedrop]

Mike, the reason why the circuit is depressurised is because officially, the operation is done with the vehicle being lifted off the ground where the wheels will be hanging freely, so this is to avoid the problems of potentially burst LDS tanks associated when the vehicle is lowered back to the ground (see this post for reference: viewtopic.php?t=62058). I suspect it make the job easier if the system is not under pressure on the front axle, as remember the suspension circuit is still active without the engine running, so it can still start height correction even with the engine switched off.

However if you are planning on doing the operation with the vehicle on the ground with just the front corner raised you may get away with it. I think I put a guide up here:

viewtopic.php?p=579003#p579003

Marc, any tips for releasing the drive shaft bearing? I've tried to pry it out and hammer it out and it's well and truly stuck.

[GiveMeABreak]

Nothing other than what's in the guide - they use that tool (5707-T)for extracting the ball joint.

[mikedrop]

Nothing other than what's in the guide - they use that tool (5707-T)for extracting the ball joint.

Got the driveshaft out eventually with the use of a percussive persuasion device

Turns out the shaft was fine (luckily, as I'd been sent an Auto shaft and mine is a manual). Regreased and replaced the CV boot clips as a matter of cause and reassembled. Next up, passenger side wheel bearing.