1.6 HDi turbo oil feed pipe - failure modes?

[MattBLancs]

A good few years back I caught turbo failure very early on, (took engine out, cleaned up top end) replaced turbo and, as recommended, changed the turbo oil feed pipe, banjo bolts and copper washers.

At the time of the rebuild I had issues getting the block end of the feed pipe's banjo bolt connection to be oil tight. Ultimately cured by annealing the (new) copper washers.

Recently I've had issue with oil weeping from the top banjo bolt connection (i.e. at turbo oil inlet connection)

I'd put this down to the copper washers not seating correctly and have had them off and on repeatedly in the past week trying to get it sealed up.

Have checked the dimensions (correct)

However, I've just read this item's description:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275230223285

Which states:

weak factory oil feed line. oil leaking always

I did notice when changing this pipe, during the rebuild, that the new version lacked the small flexible section of the original item.

Obviously the linked item above is almost all flexible tube and minimum hard line.

Has anyone else suffered getting this simple joint to function? Do these "fail always" ?

[MattBLancs]

This discussion in another forum also makes reference to failure at joint between hard pipe and banjo crimp:

https://www.peugeotforums.com/threads/1 ... ak.215017/

theyre a pain these oil feed pipes they always fail at the crimped section!

[MattBLancs]

Found another reference to a leak at this point:
viewtopic.php?t=45719

And similarly on the 1.4 HDi too:
viewtopic.php?t=53477

[MattBLancs]

Decided to shorten my usual procrastination and online research phase and get it bought,

Should arrive next weekend. Might be a Christmas break activity to get this in place, though current icy conditions, snow falling and outdoor work area are eroding my enthusiasm a touch!

[MattBLancs]

Old pipe (about 4 years old, changed when engine out)

Some movement on this job

Block end, grubby but not leaking (mess is what has run down I think

[MattBLancs]

Hmm, not overly enamoured with the amount of thread engagement on the new Mamba banjo bolt

Old at top, new at bottom

[MattBLancs]

Old DPF and catalyst assembly

New and old DPF core

Gave housing a clean with pressure washer, hardly made a difference.

Morrisons kitchen cream cleaner on the other hand shifted the carbon a treat!

Spangly shined up stainless.
New DPF appears to be a mild steel casing, so treated to a quick high temperature spray before it goes on

Catalyst added on top of new DPF

[MattBLancs]

Looks like I have that band clamp in wrong position, I remember previously that it fouls the heat shield unless it's just right. Will adjust that on the car later.

There's no alignment marks for DPF to catalyst halves, so have tried to put in the correct place, but can see that coming back to haunt me in a bit....

[MattBLancs]

Hmmm, feeling a bit thick!

Connection in this position: too close to actuator lever. Too little gap between turbo and radiator, hence hose will rub top of radiator.

[MattBLancs]

Not this either

[MattBLancs]

Maybe this is it

Cranked connection heading opposite direction to standard.

Tried it heading forward, but angled down again clashes with the actuator lever. Angled up seems mad, but I think I am going to try that anyway just to satisfy my curiosity!

[MattBLancs]

No, was correct. Up and forward is bonkers unless I cut a hole in the bonnet

[MattBLancs]

Hmmm, even up and backwards seems viable now.

On that basis, and due to loosing the light. I'm giving up and heading in the garage to do something else!

[MattBLancs]

Put a few hoses and heat shields in place to try and make sense of this.

The heading backwards, cranked down option doesn't seem viable with more in place.

So back and up seems to be it. Hose is long, plenty long. So this seems to be the answer.

Google session last night didn't yield a single picture of this setup installed.

[MattBLancs]

Having said that...