New XM Owner

A forum for new members to introduce themselves to the rabble already onboard. Not compulsory!
Tell us a little about yourself, lie if you have to but keep it to just an introduction, not a car discussion.

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wesacosa
Donor 2021
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Joined: 04 May 2021, 17:34
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New XM Owner

Post by wesacosa »

Hi all

Picked up a 1997 XM 2.1TD last week. Been off the road for 5 or 6 years prior to a bit of light recommissioning last year, but still a few jobs to do before I get to drive it
I have always fancied a Hydropneumatic Citroen but don't have any experience of working on them so I am sure I will have a few questions along the way
Wes
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GiveMeABreak
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Re: New XM Owner

Post by GiveMeABreak »

Hi and welcome to the Forum.

There's plenty of expertise to be had here. Great cars - I had 3 of them, but all petrol.

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white exec
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Re: New XM Owner

Post by white exec »

Hi, and welcome.
Good to see another 2.1TD XM.
For oodles of XM support, worth looking in at our sister site, club-xm.co.uk.

For some good bedtime reading on hydropneumatic suspension, and Hydractive, google "The Citroen Technical Guide", located on citroen.tramontana.co.hu. Lots of good info there, co-written by an XM and BX owner.

wesacosa
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Re: New XM Owner

Post by wesacosa »

thanks!
Yeah I had been doing some reading on the Club XM forum too

Issues so far seem to be a leaking doseur valve seal ,have a new seal but the locator ring is a bit bent out of shape and tore the new seal trying to get it back in!

ABS light on, not investigated yet

Drivers electric window dead
Passenger window makes a noise but doesn't go down

Unknown when cambelt was last changed

chirp from alternator area, suspect belt as its almost worn its Vees off in places

possible LHM leak near the regulator (no puddles but was a tiny bit damp underneath it)

That said I haven't driven it yet so might find something else

Looking like parts supplies might be trickier on this compared to cars I am used to working on

One question I did have on the next job on list (LHM change). What type of clamp do I need for the pipe which goes from tank to pump, as I understand it needs to come off to prime pump but not sure what replacement to buy or if they can be reused

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xantia_v6
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Re: New XM Owner

Post by xantia_v6 »

Unless the pump and inlet hose have been drained, the hydraulic pump will usually prime itself, especially the 6+2 pump which your car probably has.

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white exec
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Re: New XM Owner

Post by white exec »

Lots of QQ.

Mike (above) has covered the pump. The 6+2 is very good at priming itself, if there's still fluid in it.
Just bleed the whole system afterwards, to get rid of any trapped air. There is a recommended procedure for this. You could clamp the pipe with a cushioned pair of moles.

ABS light on
This may or may not indicate a fault. Normally the light goes out several seconds after switching the IGN on, after the suspension ECU has run a diagnostic on itself. However, the warning light is controlled by the small (cube) ABS relay, and these can acquire dirty contacts or misbehave, like many of the other 'up-front' relays that get exposed to weather. Check out the relay first. A green one, iirc.

Doseur (brake) valve
Jim (Citrojim) here will I'm sure have repaired many of these, and can advise of the metal ring.
Looks as if it should push in, squarely, given some lubrication (eg silicone grease).

Alternator (ribbed) aux belt wear
Either the result of sheer old age, or could be a tensioner - or one of the pulleys - running out of line. This can cause belt jumping across grooves, and edge wear.

LHM leak(s)
Most common are the return pipes, which are mostly 3.5mm nylon, but make connection with their components and each other with rubber tee's and elbows. These can age and split, but are easily replaced.
Worth always investigating for a leaky return first, before something more serious. Return leaks are usually slow ones; HP leaks much more dramatic.

Windows
Non-moving (or noisily moving) windows, where you can hear the motor operating, are usually snapped original steel cables. Plenty of write-ups of how to replace (with stainless) on club-xm.

Parts in general
Can be anything from dead easy to impossible.
Having the original/current Citroen part number is always the best starting point.
Just ask each time you're stuck.
A donation to FCF will allow PSA parts info (part numbers, diagrams) queries for this year and next. See below ↓
Lots of parts info on club-xm as well.
Worth downloading the XM "mechanic's handbook" from our library here:
...go Board Index > Members' Area > Resources > Mechanics' Handbooks, and hit the Year for the car (the 2001 booklet is the most useful to go for for the XM).

Hope helpful.
.
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Hell Razor5543
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Re: New XM Owner

Post by Hell Razor5543 »

Mention was made about hose clamps. While I do NOT know the correct type of clamp to use, I do know that you should not use Jubilee Clips. This is because they do not clamp evenly around the pipe in question, (as the jubilee clip is actually a spiral in shape), so there is a point where (if there is high pressure involved) a potential leak could occur. I KNOW that others on this forum will be able to advise you on what type of clamps you should use.

wesacosa
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Re: New XM Owner

Post by wesacosa »

white exec wrote:
04 May 2021, 21:28
Lots of QQ.

Mike (above) has covered the pump. The 6+2 is very good at priming itself, if there's still fluid in it.
Just bleed the whole system afterwards, to get rid of any trapped air. There is a recommended procedure for this. You could clamp the pipe with a cushioned pair of moles.

ABS light on
This may or may not indicate a fault. Normally the light goes out several seconds after switching the IGN on, after the suspension ECU has run a diagnostic on itself. However, the warning light is controlled by the small (cube) ABS relay, and these can acquire dirty contacts or misbehave, like many of the other 'up-front' relays that get exposed to weather. Check out the relay first. A green one, iirc.

Doseur (brake) valve
Jim (Citrojim) here will I'm sure have repaired many of these, and can advise of the metal ring.
Looks as if it should push in, squarely, given some lubrication (eg silicone grease).

Alternator (ribbed) aux belt wear
Either the result of sheer old age, or could be a tensioner - or one of the pulleys - running out of line. This can cause belt jumping across grooves, and edge wear.

LHM leak(s)
Most common are the return pipes, which are mostly 3.5mm nylon, but make connection with their components and each other with rubber tee's and elbows. These can age and split, but are easily replaced.
Worth always investigating for a leaky return first, before something more serious. Return leaks are usually slow ones; HP leaks much more dramatic.

Windows
Non-moving (or noisily moving) windows, where you can hear the motor operating, are usually snapped original steel cables. Plenty of write-ups of how to replace (with stainless) on club-xm.

Parts in general
Can be anything from dead easy to impossible.
Having the original/current Citroen part number is always the best starting point.
Just ask each time you're stuck.
A donation to FCF will allow PSA parts info (part numbers, diagrams) queries for this year and next. See below ↓
Lots of parts info on club-xm as well.
Worth downloading the XM "mechanic's handbook" from our library here:
...go Board Index > Members' Area > Resources > Mechanics' Handbooks, and hit the Year for the car (the 2001 booklet is the most useful to go for for the XM).

Hope helpful.
.
A response to your question by a forum admin will require detailed vehicle information that requires you to have made a current contribution to the Forum.
Donate

Further Information
cheers for the comprehensive info, I had intended that as a post on the general state of the car rather than firing a load of questions all in one go, so appreciate you taking time to give your knowledge on all the items.

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white exec
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Re: New XM Owner

Post by white exec »

No problem!

LHM suction hose, from reservoir to pump...
Sorry, I misunderstood: thought you were trying to clamp the hose to prevent loss of fluid while changing the LHM.
You should use genuinely circular hose clamps, as James says, and not jubilees/worm clamps, which have a rigid section.
The hose normally has a second, cushioning sleeve over its ends, to help prevent hose distortion.
The hose clips which are nipped up with pincers (similar to factory originals) do a good job; kits on Amazon etc. The ones with the little angled tang poking through one of the holes are releasable.
There are other types, but with screw tightening.

This is the only hose on the hydraulic system that operates under suction, and it's vital that there is no air ingress at either end.

Peter.N.
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Re: New XM Owner

Post by Peter.N. »

The 2.1 is in my opinion is the best engine. I ran estates for 10 years and around 250k miles. The first few faults were a bit puzzling but once I got to know them them they were very reliable. We holiday in the north of Scotland every year (except last year) and we just loaded up and drove, probably about 2000 miles altogether, never had a problem and averaged over 50 mpg every time.

They were very cheap at the time so if I had a serious problem I would just go and buy another one for £400-500. Don't care for the auto much but the manual boxes usually last the life of the car which with a couple of ours was approaching 300k miles. I might still be running them if they hadn't started rusting.

Peter