Is there a BSI reset procedure for a Xantia 2.0 HDi 109 please?

[Rhothgar]

Just delving deeper into this start-stop issue I'm having and a mate suggested perhaps the immobiliser is switching off the ECU once the car has started?

So I search the forum and see that there is something called a BSI reset. My car was off the road for over 2 years. Is it possible it needs resetting?

I've scoped fuel pressure sensor, fuel pressure regulator, cam and crankshaft sensors and all appear to be in order. Something is switching the signal to fuel pressure regulator off immediately after the engine starts!

TIA

[white exec]

No BSI on Xantia, but there could be an alarm-immobiliser reset procedure to be done after a battery re-connection.
Varies across OE alarm systems (of which PSA used several), but on our '96 XM it's
- reconnect battery; hazard lights give one long flash
- with all doors closed, immediately lock* and unlock the car with the remote (plip).

*Ours uses a two-button plip. On this procedure, 'lock' is achieved with 2 presses of the lock button, instead of the usual one. The first press results only in a small twitch of the locking motors, not a full lock, which the second press does.

All likely irrelevant to Xantia. I can hear Marc and Mike creeping up behind...

[wheeler]

Just delving deeper into this start-stop issue I'm having and a mate suggested perhaps the immobiliser is switching off the ECU once the car has started?

The immobiliser only authorises initial starting & wont shut the engine off when its already running.

So I search the forum and see that there is something called a BSI reset. My car was off the road for over 2 years. Is it possible it needs resetting?

Xantias dont have a BSI as they were never multiplexed, later ones like yours however have a CPH which is a very primitive form of the BSI.
You could still try a reset on it though, keys out, close all the doors, bonnet open, wait 3 minutes then disconnect the battery terminals, i always connect a bulb across the terminals for a few seconds, wait 3 mins then reconnect. after reconnecting the battery wait 3 minutes before opening any doors or operating locks.

Is there a thread on the original problem? the first thing that springs to mind here is the low pressure fuel pump, very common failure.

[Rhothgar]

Thanks White Exec.

Hi Wheeler! Thanks for joining in.

Here are the two original threads.

viewtopic.php?t=64586

viewtopic.php?p=653234

I have now looking into the injector voltage. I have only seen 6.4V at ignition on on ONE injector (Cylinder 4 which that one is from memory). Car has had mice living in it at one point and they may have eaten some wiring. Also, trying to recall if nearside front sill was welded near to MC30 earth point. Just odd how I was able to drive car back from mate's garage where it's sat in a field for two years then it breaks down again after 25-30 miles!

So once transponder light goes out the car should start and run. Here's the rub:- car will start from ignition off if switched straight up to cranking with NO hesitation and then dies. If you turn key to start position (Pre-cranking) and leave it for more than half a second, it will not even fire! Surely that rules out low pressure pump?

Was going to do a current draw test on feed wire to pump to see how much amperage it's drawing?

[Rhothgar]

I see ECP do a PWM pump for only £19 at the moment. Now that is tempting if only for my sanity. I don't like trying to diagnose without solid evidence by just buying parts as it could be just more money down the Swannee!

Just wondering if PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation (which is how the fuel pressure regulator works) or is it a brand? Wonder if anyone had fitted one and whether connections are the same?

[myglaren]

Danger Will Robinson!

That is ECP. Proceed with caution. Remember what Malcolm used to call them.

[Rhothgar]

You could still try a reset on it though, keys out, close all the doors, bonnet open, wait 3 minutes then disconnect the battery terminals, i always connect a bulb across the terminals for a few seconds, wait 3 mins then reconnect. after reconnecting the battery wait 3 minutes before opening any doors or operating locks.

Sorry. When you say connect a bulb across the terminals, which terminals do you mean? The battery terminals?

Also, when all doors are closed, should I lock them too?

I would DIE if this worked!

[Rhothgar]

Danger Will Robinson!

That is ECP. Proceed with caution. Remember what Malcolm used to call them.

It's a fair point but they don't have stock local anyway so if it needs to be returned. It's at their cost. And somewhat at my cost, in the deflation after excitement, when it's wrong and won't fit and the 'never-knowing'...

[wheeler]

Sorry. When you say connect a bulb across the terminals, which terminals do you mean? The battery terminals?

Also, when all doors are closed, should I lock them too?

I would DIE if this worked!

Yes, across the battery terminals, to discharge any residual current. No need to lock the doors.
Agreed, dont buy junk form ECP, it is not uncommon to get faulty parts straight out the box making you start to doubt your findings. £19 for a LP pump should say it all

So the immobiliser light always goes out? Can you hear the pump running & priming? have you confirmed there is a feed at the pump during cranking?
Have you tried thumping the underside of the fuel tank right under where the pump sits? this often gets HDi's with faulty LP pumps (temporarily) going.

[myglaren]

May be worth extracting the pump to check it Roger. They are known to clog with biomass that grows in the diesel, especially when that car is not run for a few months and the fuel continually replaced. I's a bit of a bugger to get rid of.
Somewhere there ia a photo of an actual Xantia pump clogged with it but this will give you an idea of the problem:

Pump removal, easier with a Xantia - the retaining ring is usually hard to shift and people have made a tool for it from plywood, - a fork that acts equally across the diameter to prevent distortion. Bashing with a hammer and screwdriver may work but can easily ruin it so it doesn't work the seal it again.



Best of luck with that!

[Rhothgar]

Yes, across the battery terminals, to discharge any residual current. No need to lock the doors.
Agreed, dont buy junk form ECP, it is not uncommon to get faulty parts straight out the box making you start to doubt your findings. £19 for a LP pump should say it all

Yes but they will have to refund all costs if it's wrong fit for instance. But as you say that doesn't rule out it being faulty straight out of the box. Then again that guarantee is never there (unless it's Bosch, I suppose).

So the immobiliser light always goes out?

Transponder light comes on and goes out as you crank.

Can you hear the pump running & priming?

Yes. It primes for about 6 seconds but of course pressure may not be 100% sufficient.

have you confirmed there is a feed at the pump during cranking?

No I haven't. Not at the low pressure side of things. Definitely fuel delivery to the filter housing but it might not be the right pressure? Well should I more accurately say - fuel comes out when the pump is priming ie ignition on but like I say the car won't then start once the ignition has been turned up past Accessories position (ONLY IF you switch straight to crank).

This is making me think that booster pump cuts back in? Is that what you are inferring?

I thought engine will not fire unless 2.5-3.5 bar pressure is there. There are NO leaks as far as I can tell which could reduce pressure. I have done a diesel leak-off test too. That seems all good. I could obviously only do that through cranking many times for an extended period. They all were equal.

Have you tried thumping the underside of the fuel tank right under where the pump sits? this often gets HDi's with faulty LP pumps (temporarily) going.

No. Not as yet because I felt that if I can hear it priming it must be OK (notwithstanding a pressure fault on the low pressure side)?

[Rhothgar]

May be worth extracting the pump to check it Roger.

That's a PROPER bacterial infestation! WOW!

Fuel has been out before and it is clean.

[Rhothgar]

Yes, across the battery terminals, to discharge any residual current. No need to lock the doors.
Agreed, dont buy junk form ECP, it is not uncommon to get faulty parts straight out the box making you start to doubt your findings. £19 for a LP pump should say it all

Yes but they will have to refund all costs if it's wrong fit for instance. But as you say that doesn't rule out it being faulty straight out of the box. Then again that guarantee is never there (unless it's Bosch, I suppose).

So the immobiliser light always goes out?

Transponder light comes on and goes out as you crank.

Can you hear the pump running & priming?

Yes. It primes for about 6 seconds but of course pressure may not be 100% sufficient.

have you confirmed there is a feed at the pump during cranking?

No I haven't. Not at the low pressure side of things. Definitely fuel delivery to the filter housing but it might not be the right pressure? Well should I more accurately say - fuel comes out when the pump is priming ie ignition on but like I say the car won't then start once the ignition has been turned up past Accessories position (ONLY IF you switch straight to crank).

This is making me think that booster pump cuts back in? Is that what you are inferring?

I thought engine will not fire unless 2.5-3.5 bar pressure is there. There are NO leaks as far as I can tell which could reduce pressure. I have done a diesel leak-off test too. That seems all good. I could obviously only do that through cranking many times for an extended period. They all were equal.

Have you tried thumping the underside of the fuel tank right under where the pump sits? this often gets HDi's with faulty LP pumps (temporarily) going.

No. Not as yet because I felt that if I can hear it priming it must be OK (notwithstanding a pressure fault on the low pressure side)?

The only reference value I have Wheeler is it pumps 1.2 litres in 30 seconds so definitely has the right ballpark throughput. Do you know how much current it should draw? That can divulge blockages in pipes apparently.

[Hell Razor5543]

One thing that is known to happen (over a very long time) is that a brown sludge forms in the tank, and then blocks the tank pick up pipework. There are pictures somewhere on the forum that show this sludge (micro organisms that feed on the diesel, I believe). You have to unto the large 'nut' in the top of the fuel tank to get the pick up out (tie string to the cables, so they don't drop out of access).

[Rhothgar]

One thing that is known to happen (over a very long time) is that a brown sludge forms in the tank, and then blocks the tank pick up pipework. There are pictures somewhere on the forum that show this sludge (micro organisms that feed on the diesel, I believe). You have to unto the large 'nut' in the top of the fuel tank to get the pick up out (tie string to the cables, so they don't drop out of access).

As McGlaren has posted but I'm now left wondering, as the pump is clear, whether I could have growths in the supply line? I could blow them out with compressed air to check but do you know if it is wise to disconnect the lines from the pump, or clear them with the lines in-situ?

A current draw test can reveal a blockage if only I could find out the specification for the current draw. Time to delve deeper into some of the factory manuals.