Gearbox issue

[atr]

Hi
This morning, while driving to work, after about 20km's ride, a "gear box fault" warning appeared, along with the "service" went on and it showed D3 constantly (with a flashing light above it). I was on the highway and there was noting I could do, so, I drove on about 10 more kilometers until I've reached my destination. I turned the engine off. when I've returned, about 5 hours later and I drove back - the same distance, about 30 km's, no warning light went on and the vehicle behaved as if nothing happened. any idea what can be the cause of it and what do I have to expect? the gearbox is an AL4.
Thanx.
Avi

[xantia_v6]

Something triggered the transmission to go into limp mode, but to find out what it was, you will need to connect a Lexia and read the fault codes.

[Stickyfinger]

Has the gearbox had an oil change and if so how long ago ?

[atr]

No, the oil wasn't changed.

[atr]

Well, I've connected my Lexia today and the outcome as follows : P1167 pressure regulation fault (difference/reference value). what can be done?
Thanx.
Avi

[GiveMeABreak]

This is an uncharacterised fault Avi, but I do have a technical service bulletin on this issue:

"Illumination of the gearbox diagnostic warning light: This incident causes a sensation of slipping (The gearbox changes to limp home mode) - In the presence of fault codes P1167, P0745, P06"

The TSB points to the replacement of the pressure modulation electrovalve (EVM). Part number: 257416

It refers to firstly checking the gearbox oil level.

• If the oil level is not correct, first search for the source of any oil leak.
• If the oil level is correct, replace the pressure modulation electrovalve.

[atr]

Marc is helpful as ever. I was told that at some point the manufacturer has changed the electrovalve and therefor if the new ones are installed, there is a need to install some update to the gearbox software. if that is the case, how it's done? second question - from what I've seen on Ebay, most, if not all the electrovalve offered are Chinese. can I have your opinion regarding their quality? oh, and one more thing - I was advised to replace the two electrovalves, the one that was pointed out by Marc, part no. 257416. anyone knows the part no. of the second one, the one that is located next to it?
Thanx.
Avi

[atr]

Hi
I'm considering to change this electrovalves myself. first, I would like to ask if any of the forum members has done it and can offer any advise. also I would like to ask if this task can be carried out without a lift (which I don't have) while the vehicle is on it's wheels. would it be right to pour fresh fluid instead of the transmission fluid that will be drained before opening the cover?
Thanx.
Avi

[GiveMeABreak]

I'll put something up for you shortly Avi.

[GiveMeABreak]

This is the formal procedure for the AL4, which does suggest a lift to make access easier, plus also read through first, as you will need to drain the cooling system and refill, plus there are some tools and procedures you will need to do after. Don't forget you will also need to replace the seals when changing the electrovalves.

Tooling

Internal selection control adjustment screw	Internal selection control adjustment shim

Removing - Automatic gearbox hydraulic valve block

CAUTION: This operation requires a great deal of care; take all possible cleanliness precautions.

Raise and support the vehicle on a 2 -post lift.
Disconnect the ancillaries battery. (BSI Reset / Battery Disconnect / Reconnect Procedure)

Remove:

• The air resonator
• The protective panel under the engine (according to equipment)
• The components necessary for removal of the hydraulic block

Drain gearbox: Place a tray to retrieve the oil from the hydraulic valve block housing.
Drain the cooling system.

Remove: The bolts (1) The casing (2)	Remove the 9 bolts (3). Disconnect the connectors of the 6 sequence solenoid valves (at "b") Lever gently using a screwdriver (at "a").
Move aside the hydraulic block (4). CAUTION: Do not drop the manual valve (5). Disconnect the pressure modulation solenoid valve connectors (at "c"). Remove the hydraulic valve block (4).	(5) Manual valve. (6) Main Pressure Solenoid Valve (pressure EVM). (7) Converter control modulating solenoid valve (lock-up EVM). (8) EVS4 sequential solenoid valve. (9) EVS3 sequential solenoid valve. (10) EVS1 sequential solenoid valve. (11) EVS2 sequential solenoid valve. (12) EVS6 sequential solenoid valve. (13) EVS5 sequential solenoid valve. Note: It is not necessary to remove the hydraulic block (4) in order to remove the sequential solenoid valves (8-13). CAUTION: When the sequence solenoid valve EVS5 (13) is removed, support the hydraulic slide valve controlled by the solenoid valve so that it does not fall. If necessary, remove the hydraulic block (4) solenoid valves

Refitting - Electrovalves of the hydraulic valve block

Adhere to the tightening torques

CAUTION: Change the solenoid valve seals each time the solenoid valves are refitted.

CAUTION: Fit new seals (14). Position the hydraulic valve block (4). Reconnect the connectors of the pressure modulation solenoid valves (at "c").	CAUTION: Take care that the manual valve (5) is engaged in the lug "d" of the notched section (16).

Refit the 9 bolts (3) of the hydraulic valve block (4). Reconnect the connectors of the 6 sequence solenoid valves (at "b").

Adjusting the internal selection control CAUTION: Carry out this adjustment at each operation on the hydraulic block (4) or on the internal selection control. N.B. : The adjusting is done with the cover (2) of the hydraulic block (4) removed. CAUTION: Move the lever (17) to the mechanical stop position towards the rear of the vehicle (In the direction of the arrow ) Hold the lever (17) by means of a plastic locking clip during the adjusting procedure. Slacken the bolt (18). Place the roller "e" of the blade (15) in the notch position 2 of the notched section (16). Remove the bolt (19).

Position the tool [0338-M2] pressing across the length of the blade (15). Replace the bolt [0338-M1] with the tool (19). Push the plate (15) in the direction of the arrow and lock the assembly using tool [0338-M1]. Tighten the bolt (18) to 0,9 daN.m. Remove the tools [0338-M1], [0338-M2]. Refit bolt (19), tighten to 0,7 daN.m.

CAUTION: Check the operation of the gear selection control in all the positions. The lever must have no overtravel (17) when it is in the mechanical stop position towards the rear (In the direction of the arrow ).

Refit:

• The casing (2) fitted with a new seal
• The bolts (1)

CAUTION : Perform the operations that are required following a reconnection of the ancillaries battery.
Reconnect the ancillaries battery. (Refer to reconnection part of the linked procedure).

Fill the gearbox with oil.
Carry out filling and bleeding of the coolant circuit and top up the level.

Refit:

• The components necessary for removal of the hydraulic block
• The protective panel under the engine (according to equipment)
• The air resonator

Do an updating of the value of the oil wear counter using Diagbox.

Tightening Torques

Ref: (10) Fixing of the hydraulic valve block casing - tighten to 1 daNm	Hydraulic valve block fixing: Centre the hydraulic block using the screws ( 11) and (12) Pre-tighten : 0,9 daNm (in any order) Slacken the 9 bolts Final tightening : 0,75 daNm (in the order shown) N.B. : The screw ( 11) is shouldered.

[atr]

Thanx Marc. as I don't have the 2 tools, I hope that I will be able to manage without them.
Avi

[xantia_v6]

I think I saw a YouTube video of the AL4 solenoid replacement. I don't have a link, but it would be worth searching for it.

[atr]

Thanx, I found two, I hope they will help. as per the two tools - the screw (0338-M1) and the shim (0338-M2) - I've searched for any info regarding them, because I would like to fabricate them, but I found nothing. any info - drawing, measurements, etc. will be highly appreciated (let me point out that I have the ability and machinery to do so).
Thanx.
Avi

[vladd.alex]

Dear colleagues, is there a documentation about the unmount of AL4 gearbox from a DS3? Unfortunately I have to change the oil sealing from the engine and I need to get it down. Many thanks and sorry if I posted in the wrong place.

[GiveMeABreak]

If I were to write this up, it would be placed on the Forum resources section, which would require a membership upgrade to access:

We can help if you need an original genuine part number, part diagram or factory build sheet and can't already find the info you need on the Forum. For this service, we do ask for a membership upgrade for official parts data as we are in turn charged for this. It will cover you for future part number requests for up to 2 years, so excellent value.

If interested, links are below, then provide your vehicle's VIN in full, which will be masked automatically when you submit your post.

A response to your question by a Forum Admin requiring parts or specific vehicle information requires you to have made a current contribution (Min. £10 / €11.48 or equivalent) to the Forum.

To Upgrade Your Membership & Donate Click Here For Further Information About Vehicle Parts and VIN Numbers Click Here