MikeT's C5r 1.6 hdi Estate

[RichardW]

Age is the most likely reason for going for a 1.6 over a 2.0 8V - they were discontinued in 2004 so the youngest are now 13 years old. Anything from Scotland likely to be dissolving by now! If you can run to the extra tax / diesel a 2.0 16V is probably a better bet.

[MikeT]

Mike

Been away....

Turbo filter - yes, you need to remove the DPF to get at it. whether you need to remove the rad will depend on where it is mounted in the C5 - there is a lot of room under the bonnet, so they may have put it further forward leaving enough room to get the heatshield out without taking the rad out. To get the DPF out: undo the 7 bolts on the heatshield (either 10mm hex head or T20(?) - they're all the same. The one behind the AC comp is awkward - especially if 10mm head. Remove the two sensing pipes - 19mm open ender required (bottom one requires the removal of the undertray if still fitted). These may seize in, bottom one can be left (disconnect at the rubber tube), but the top one needs to come out or you can't get the shield off. If it won't come then you will need to get inventive.... new tube is abut £30 if you have to chop it off....! Remove the two clamps top and bottom of the DPF (16mm). Spring the off set washer to release the tension, then remove the clamp - which is much easier if you've got a pair of the proper clamp pliers. Unplug the temp sensor half way down the NS. Remove the two 13mm nuts holding the dpf on and drop it out of the bottom. remove the rear heat shield (lifts off I think) and you will now be able to get to the bottom banjo joint for the oil feed - remove this (10mm allen) and pick the filter out of the end (small screwdriver of similar). In theory you should replace the washers, but I just refitted on the pug and no leaks. Take care to lift the dpf properly onto the turbo before tightening the top clamp - or it leaks and you have to take it all out again.....

I looked, I saw (at least the top of the pipe) and became dispondent. All that, just to get to one bolt.

[RichardW]

All that plus a lot more if the turbo turns its toes up..... worthwhile insurance!

[MikeT]

All that plus a lot more if the turbo turns its toes up..... worthwhile insurance!

Yeah, I know, just having a rant for one bloody bolt lol.

Add to that, I just spotted another failure. (can't attach the jpeg for some reason, despite reducing it from 4mb to 400kb). Nearside front strut leak off has split at the top spigot. Quick look on ebay, they're (95 050 399 + 96 127 591) about £10, wonder what Citroen charge?

[RichardW]

All that faff is also required if the clutch needs changing - as one of the gear box bolts is fitted from the engine side, and it's behind the DPF....

£6.66 for the clamp, £19.63 for the hose

[MikeT]

All that faff is also required if the clutch needs changing - as one of the gear box bolts is fitted from the engine side, and it's behind the DPF....

£6.66 for the clamp, £19.63 for the hose

The clutch will need changing, I can feel it in my water. Grrrrrrrrrrreat!

Those prices PLUS the dreaded that is. Ordered mine from Lithuania instead. Now to sort a temp fix to save spreading my LHM about town.

[MikeT]

While waiting for the new leak off pipe, I set about bodging a repair so I can still use the car. Was initially going to try amalgamating tape and, once set, wrap that in duck tape for re-inforcement but as I tugged it off the spigot it completely broke away (almost like a clean straight cut). Fortunately, it was just the last 1/2 inch and there's enough surplus length to slip it back on the spigot. Just need to be mindful when setting the suspension to high. This is it before the bodge. I'm concerned because the pipe is in very good condition yet appears to be almost cleanly cut through.

[lexi]

Age is the most likely reason for going for a 1.6 over a 2.0 8V - they were discontinued in 2004 so the youngest are now 13 years old. Anything from Scotland likely to be dissolving by now! If you can run to the extra tax / diesel a 2.0 16V is probably a better bet.

There isn't a C5 from even the 01 plates that are in a scrap yard because of rust. Dissolving? Years in them yet! Made from Girders

[CitroJim]

There isn't a C5 from even the 01 plates that are in a scrap yard because of rust. Dissolving? Years in them yet! Made from Girders

That is good to know Lexi... I've seen some very scruffy early ones running around here but never a rusty one...

[myglaren]

True enough.
My first C5 had a ding on the front wing that removed the paint and didn't rust in the three years I kept it.
Current one was assaulted by a tree, same story, three years with the boot bent, cracked and missing paint and not a hint of rust anywhere on the rather neglected heap.

[MikeT]

Consequently, the average mpg is also on the rise

Confirmed! Best ave MPG to date has gone up from 56.4mpg to 61.5mpg between tank refills. With other work needed, I'm quietly confident this can improve still.
Despite it's fragility, I'm really liking this engine more and more.

[RichardW]

Given that a few hours work, and possibly £3-500 for new injector seals at 100k (or cheaper if you dare to do it yourself!) appears to be enough to stave off turbo woes, it's actually starting to look a better bet than an early 8V, which is likely to need to 4 injectors at a parts cost of £1200....

[MikeT]

I admit, I've still got to re-seal one injector which I've left after re-tightening appeared to have cured the leak. I'm pretty sure the EGR isn't in it's most effecient state either, nor the turbo come to that. And who knows what state the mixer/doser vavles are like. Plus my airbox is disconnected (broken) at the intake pipe so it's no doubt being fed hot air mostly.

I just took a peek at the live mpg reading with cruise control set at 50mph. I don't usually rely it on due to varying road inclinations and wind etc, but if it's anything to go by, was seeing high 70's to low 80's over a flat stretch, sheltered by high trees either side. Can't wait for the chance of a long road trip.

[MikeT]

Rant time again: Dejavu with replacement parts, this time it's the airbox I tackled. Both lugs were snapped off the airbox (the only thing holding it in place is a side hose connector!) and the cold air feed pipe doesn't stay connected either. Add to that, there's an exhaust leak somewhere around the EGR that soots up the airbox and the air filter I put the job off until I was feeling up to it...today.

So, pipes off, airbox out and I think I found the exhaust leak (the ring clamp around the EGR cooler was loose!) that lifted my spirits as I moaned about my back ache. With air box removed, disconnected maf to swap over and promptly dropped one bolt somewhere round the battery compartment. Damnit! Why aren't sockets magnetised?

Went to fit new airbox and noticed it was still loose - seems the holes the brand new lugs fit into should have rubber grommets in them! Arggghh. Fed up, aching, sore and sweaty.

[MikeT]

Popped into Citroen's to see if I could get the missing sundries - they don't sell the rubber grommets, only a replacement brackets with pre-fitted grommets for £12.63+dreaded. Also, the MAF bolts (of which three secure the MAF) are sold at £2.45ea+dreaded in a pack of four!

Off to the bay of E for grommets (1422A3). Anyone got part number for MAF bolts, I can't find it on Service.Citroen (what section is it?).

ETA - scratch that, found it. They call it the Inj Calculator Sensor. Also, it states the fasteners are screws (no73) whereas mine has bolts and looks suspiciously like no74.