206cc to a 308cc How ? Why ? Everything 308cc

[Huskyxantia]

PEUGEOT 308CC 1.6HDI ISSUE

1 MAF
2 ESP
3 ABS
4 DPF RISK OF CLOGGING

START.
Full diagnostic session get codes then run live data.

My theory is this , dpf is clean which when cleaned was then reset via the new parts section using my diagnostic tool.

The eyloy *dpf fluid used in euro 5 cars probly others, measured 890 mls so this was fine.

So went for a shopping trip which I deliberately drive a total of 68 miles for this car and once a week when it's being used as this road has most very fast A roads with the national speed limit

However I was 3 miles from home gearing up half way up a small hill then low and behold the dpf warning comes up so I I thought it's OK them A roads will help out, 4 miles out and just get going on the first A road hello esp,abs, engine needs repair all pop up on the dash display.

I got to where we needed to get too also stopped for a Mcplant meal plus water as my treat which by this time 308cc had rested by at least 45 mins.

So shopping loaded in I fired the car up esp,abs ,dpf all out , only one left engine needs repair..
It drove back home fine no problem at all .

So reaching while I was at home the plan is as follows.

Test the MAF sensor with ohms meter to check the numbers , also the fuse for any sensors live line if that's possible or makes sense. My suspicion is maf as it seems to be when you need to stick the pedal down it then acts like it can't breath a little then up pops abs esp and so on , I think as these are all sort of wired so close together on one line the cars bsi shuts things off to protect things of you know what I mean in other words false positive codes and actions by the cars bsi.

So each connection will be checked and probed for resistance, numbers will be recored 02 sensor , exhaust temperature sensor and so on.

Pipes will also be investigated for splits as these can cause this problem aswell. If I see code like P0100 (MAF) then it will be annoying but point towards my theory.

[Huskyxantia]

Possible parts that maybe needed

https://ebay.io/m/sAfHx8
https://ebay.io/m/4KUPP8
https://ebay.io/m/YklzHN
https://ebay.io/m/OHBQmq
https://ebay.io/m/GPXxFi

More than a possibility
https://ebay.io/m/smLf7B

Considering this car hasn't had money spent on it for almost 3 yrs apart from service and mot i think it's been pretty well behaved, also a tad over 152k its about time things start to play up , its normal isn't it..

https://ebay.io/m/uIAPg8 this is my o2 sensor the one above is for petrol , also well spotted matt, ive had 3 saved and choose the wrong one lol

[Huskyxantia]

£298.78
This is the cost of all the above , once the diagnostic is done plus the other tests I will then make my purchases of what is really needed.
Update to follow

[MattBLancs]

Possible parts that maybe needed

https://ebay.io/m/YklzHN (3rd one down on your list)

Note that's lambda sensor for a petrol

Considering this car hasn't had money spent on it for almost 3 yrs apart from service and mot i think it's been pretty well behaved, also a tad over 152k its about time things start to play up , its normal isn't it..

Yes, I'd say so. Things hum along well for a bit then need a coat of looking at

[Huskyxantia]

Thought it was , ive just found my one price pretty much the same. No it's a tad more wake up man lol but definitely the one

https://ebay.io/m/uIAPg8

[Huskyxantia]

With help from my 308cc ai assistant

Diagnostic & Live Data Report: Peugeot 308 (1.6 HDi) Intake Air & Exhaust Sensor Troubleshooting
​Vehicle Info
​Model: Peugeot 308
​Engine: 1.6 HDi (DV6)
​1. Initial Inspection & Mechanical Notes
​Upper Intake Air Hose Check: The upper intake air ducting was visually inspected. The hose connection looked slightly unseated at the connector clip, though active air testing later confirmed it is sealing well enough to pass live flow parameters without pulling an unmetered air code.
​Component Location Verification: Located and isolated the camshaft position sensor on top of the engine block and traced the main fresh air intake duct down to the filter housing. Located the air dosing/mixer unit attached directly to the intake manifold.
​2. Electrical Testing (Oxygen Sensor Circuit)
​A digital multimeter was used to back-probe and test the resistance of the internal heating element inside the pre-cat oxygen sensor (located behind the exhaust heat shield).
​Heater Circuit Resistance Reading: 0.01 \Omega across the blue and yellow heater wires.
​Diagnosis: A normal O2 heater circuit should show specific resistance (usually between 5 to 30 \Omega depending on the exact unit). A reading of 0.01 \Omega confirms a dead electrical short-circuit where the internal heater coils have fused together.
​ECU Live Data Reading: 3% Activation/Duty-Cycle on the scanner for the O2 heater command.
​Diagnosis: The 3% duty cycle shows the ECU detected the massive current spike caused by the 0.01 \Omega short circuit and restricted the pulse-width modulation down to a baseline safety minimum to protect the internal ECU drivers from burning out.
​Action Taken: The oxygen sensor has been completely unplugged to electrically isolate the short circuit and safeguard the ECU. The vehicle is currently running safely in default "open-loop" mode (which runs slightly rich) until the replacement sensor arrives.
​3. Autel Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) Retrieved
​A global scan using an Autel MaxiCOM 808S pulled the following engine management faults:
​Fault 1: Air mixer. — Drift on the initializations of one of the two stops (Status: Intermittent)
​Fault 2: Variable geometry turbo. — Excessive drift on the last initializations of the upper/lower limit (Status: Intermittent)
​4. Live Parameter Measurement (At 80°C Coolant Temperature)
​With the engine completely warmed up to 80°C and idling, the live data for the air induction circuit showed the following values:
​Air metering valve position setting: 0%
​Feedback of air metering valve: -5%
​Turbo solenoid valve Open Cycle Ratio (OCR): 61%
​Position copy: 85%
​Analysis of the 0% Air Metering Values:
​Because the engine is fully warm, the ECU should actively be modulating the air mixer flap to blend fresh air and EGR gases. The flat 0% command combined with the negative -5% feedback loop gap strongly implies the ECU has disabled dynamic regulation of the mixer flap for this ignition cycle due to the initialization "drift" error logged at startup. The valve appears to be stuck shut or physically wedged by carbon accumulation, throwing off its learned rest positions.
​Next Step Plan
​Clear DTCs & Road Test: Clear the existing faults now that the engine is warm, cycle the ignition, and monitor the live data screen to see if the Air Metering Valve position command moves from 0% when the throttle is blipped.
​Physical Clean: If the initialization drift codes return immediately, the air dosing unit housing will be removed to clean out oily soot/carbon residue blocking the mechanical path of the internal butterfly flap.
​Sensor Replacement: Install a new pre-cat oxygen sensor to fix the heater short circuit and restore normal closed-loop operation.
​Forum Note: Massive thanks to my AI collaborator, who acted as a grounded peer to help analyze these live data screens, trace the engine components under my direct layout instructions, and explain the electrical logic behind the ECU's 3% protection mode!
​If you want to see exactly how to remove, inspect, and clean these sticky components, this HDi Air Metering Valve Fix Guide shows a common mechanical breakdown of the linkages and internal flaps on these HDi air dosing units.

[Huskyxantia]

Video above is another car but the procedure is pretty much the same

[Huskyxantia]

​Update on the 308cc Diagnostic & Intake Clean:
​Put in a solid 3-hour session on the car working through the intake side.
​Air Filter: Replaced the air filter with a brand new unit—the old one was completely black and choked up, which explains a lot of the heavy vacuum and oily sludge in the system.
​Pipes & Air Mixer: Got all the air pipes removed and cleaned out. The pipework had a fair bit of heavy sludge and carbon buildup inside, so gave them a proper scrub.
​MAP Sensor Inspection: Pulled the MAP/IAT sensor out from the intake manifold behind the throttle body. The tip was completely caked in thick, black oily gunk and carbon soot, which will definitely have been insulating the sensing element and throwing off reading response times. Stamped part numbers on the Denso unit logged as: 9663480880 / 079800-9200.
​Manifold Removal: Tried to get the intake manifold completely off the engine to give it a full bench wash, but couldn't get it removed due to restricted access and hidden fixings at the back. Settled for cleaning out what can be reached through the ports.
​Next Steps Today:
​Test the cleaned Denso MAP sensor using a multimeter (checking ohm resistance on the IAT thermistor pins and signal response) before refitting.
​If the new downstream exhaust O2 sensor turns up in the post today (£29 replacement), get that fitted to resolve the heater filament short circuit.
​Reassemble the fuel filter housing area (had to move it for access) and prime the diesel fuel system.
​Clear remaining fault codes via Autel and record the final completed mileage.
​(Note: Dictated via voice instructions and formatted with assistance).
​photos in the next update.

[Huskyxantia]

Notes for self ,
question to Ai regarding the different ways to test the map sensor here is the outcome from my q&a session with Ai. My questions....
I need to check that map sensor later today using my ohms tester , what pin does what and how do you probe it to get the readings that tell you it's working, resistance test as such .
Ai responce ...
To test your DENSO 9663480880 4-pin combined MAP/IAT sensor using an ohmmeter (multimeter set to Ohms, \Omega), you are specifically testing the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) thermistor circuit inside it.
​(Note: The pressure/MAP sensor side uses a piezoresistive silicon chip that requires a 5V power supply to output a voltage signal, so it cannot be measured using static Ohms alone).
​Step 1: Set Up Your Multimeter
​Set your multimeter dial to Ohms (\Omega), specifically on the 20k \Omega (20,000 Ohms) range (or auto-range if your meter has it).
​Step 2: Identify the Pins
​Looking directly into the 4-pin connector on the sensor, the pinout for this DENSO unit typically runs:
​Pin 1: Ground (GND)
​Pin 2: IAT Signal (NTC Thermistor)
​Pin 3: 5V Reference Power (VREF)
​Pin 4: MAP Signal
​Step 3: Measure IAT Resistance (\Omega)
​Place your two multimeter probes across Pin 1 and Pin 2:
​Expected Resistance at Ambient Temperature:
​At 20°C (68°F): You should read approximately 2.0k \Omega to 2.5k \Omega (2,000 to 2,500 Ohms).
​At 25°C (77°F): You should read approximately 1.8k \Omega to 2.0k \Omega (1,800 to 2,000 Ohms).
​Testing Sensor Response:
​Hold the sensing tip near your hand or gently blow warm air over it. Because it is a Negative Temperature Coefficient (NTC) thermistor, the resistance should steadily decrease as the temperature goes up.
​Fault Check: If your meter reads 0\,\Omega (dead short) or \text{O.L} / Infinite (open circuit), the internal temperature sensor wire is broken and the unit needs replacing.
​Step 4: Quick MAP Side Checks (Resistance & Power)
​While you can't check the pressure output with Ohms, you can verify it isn't internally shorted:
​Internal Short Check: Place probes across Pin 1 (GND) and Pin 3 (VREF). It should not read 0\,\Omega. If it reads near zero, the 5V rail inside is shorted out.
​On-Car Voltage Check (Key ON, Engine OFF):
​If you plug the sensor back into the harness and back-probe Pin 4 (Signal) to Ground with a voltmeter, it should read roughly 1.8V to 2.2V at normal sea-level atmospheric pressure (approx. 1,000 mbar).

[Huskyxantia]

Map sensor before & after cleaning, the location as seen by the photos just past the bend on the inlet pipe under a bracket which bolts 10mm size on to the alloy fuel filter housing. It can be removed with out moving bracket you just have to workout the way you need to lift it out but it will come out with a turn and a lift and a pull away side ways away from the bracket

[Huskyxantia]

Mucky thing.
After a spray with.
https://ebay.io/m/dzAegk

It came up nice and clean my only issue was the can then decided to stop spraying and its still almost a full can, not best pleased so I have messaged the seller to inform them of this when you pay for a highly recommended product you don't expect this to happen.

[CitroJim]

Following all of this with interest Husky and here's hoping all your hard work will reap rewards

[Huskyxantia]

Just waiting for the 02 sensor to arrive that's pretty much the only thing holding me up .