Some puzzles for me and my 307

[Rhothgar]

Anyhow ... better than multimeter ... is a power probe. Will do 99% of the things you want from a multmeter and so much more. Power probe, once again an AliExpress special, has the ability to inject power to a device as well as measure multimeter stuff(and more). My 3008 had a non compliant AC system. Clutch not switching on. Being unable to decipher Peugeot wiring diagrams(not used to their system) was easier for me to just probe the AC clutch. Confirmed it was dead. Pulled it, and double confirmed it wouldn't engage on the bench. Having the power probe made the job of removing the clutch(not an easy one) a higher chance of being sure not to waste time. Easy to check on the bench, but took about 2 hours(of mainly faffing about, into inaccessible areas) with circlips and immovable nuts and bolts. Would have been infuriating to have pulled it out to test it only to find it did work. In the end, installed a new AC clutch, and found that one of the issues was the (engine bay)fusebox control circuit. I think I mentioned that too. I did buy one off AliExpress(going off the part numbers I had located ... once it came I have to say ... zero difference in feel/quality/sturdiness about it, compared to the one fitted in the 3008. Installed in a few mins ... scanned 3008, found no more fault code related to fuse box AC control circuit .. ie problem gone ... and yet still no AC! ... who mentioned something about "Not perfect, but a lot better".

You could have unplugged the air con compressor and tested it without removing it BUT a word of caution (you did the right thing by bench testing) is be very careful on advising people to use power probes. Ozfrog by their own admission doesn't really know how to even use a multimeter from what I understood so a power probe is a dangerous tool in the wrong hands. I foregone buying one for years until I understood electrics and test procedures much better than I did. If you've read my blog, you will see I have even stripped down my ECU and done bodge repairs in the past. NOTE: I didn't blow the ECU components using a power probe - it was water ingress and corrosion on pins.

I only ever use my Power Probe with all components on the circuit disconnected. For this, you might well need wiring diagrams because if there are various components on a single wire via splices and those components may well be 5V and not 12V, sending 12V down a disconnected wire can result in blown components.

Air con is quite complex. I have an issue on my Xantia and recently did some repairs to the air con ECU. I do need refrigerant in my system as there is none in it as I have a leaking condensor which needs replacing. My clutch has gone too. If you do not have enough pressure in the system then the air con will not switch on.

[ozfrog]

PASS! You would have to check their comparative qualities. They sound similar for sure but only experience in all products would trump actual data sheets.

You can get PlusGas in Aus as I've seen it on Ebay specifically. I did a check before posting.

I will have to check the qualities of the various products before making a decision on whether or not they are similar. I'll also ask people who are more experienced in these types of things.

As far as the product of your choice being available in Australia, I also checked eBay - before I read your post. I found a few items. One would be imported to Australia from England. The postage cost is nearly double the cost of the item. There are a few located in Australia; this one is representative of them.

But at a cost of AUD134.95 (£71.01) plus postage AUD 14.95 (£7.87), I think it's better value to buy the new item and have it imported from the old country.

You didn't answer my question about how you can leave the EGR ‘not replaced’ for however long you said you have. Two years? Sorry, I can't go back to check what you said when I'm using a mobile device.

[Rhothgar]

PASS! You would have to check their comparative qualities. They sound similar for sure but only experience in all products would trump actual data sheets.

You can get PlusGas in Aus as I've seen it on Ebay specifically. I did a check before posting.

I will have to check the qualities of the various products before making a decision on whether or not they are similar. I'll also ask people who are more experienced in these types of things.

As far as the product of your choice being available in Australia, I also checked eBay - before I read your post. I found a few items. One would be imported to Australia from England. The postage cost is nearly double the cost of the item. There are a few located in Australia; this one is representative of them.



But at a cost of AUD134.95 (£71.01) plus postage AUD 14.95 (£7.87), I think it's better value to buy the new item and have it imported from the old country.

You didn't answer my question about how you can leave the EGR ‘not replaced’ for however long you said you have. Two years? Sorry, I can't go back to check what you said when I'm using a mobile device.

That can is a lovely piece of automobilia. I can appreciate it but know that someone would simply through it out when I die!

I found this but hadn't appreciated it was a UK seller as I was just looking at the price.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/375447834819

It might be worth firing PlusGas an email and asking if they have an AUS distribution arm setup or compare the data sheets of what you have to PlusGas rather than spending money perhaps unnecessarily. The Wurth stuff cannot be cheap which is why I will have never bought it.

Now to look at EGR question...

EDIT: Cannot see any reply after my reply where I jokingly said, "DON'T DO IT!" but basically I've put if off because it looks to be one of those jobs that is nasty to do and I have access to a proper ramp at a mate's which makes it easier if anything. Couple to that, is the fact I can see that the studs which hold it on are so badly corroded on mine I am 99.9% sure they are going to snap however judicious I am with patience. And then it is surely take the turbo off, the exhaust manifold, drill and helicoil the manifold and put it all back together. Got to be a day's job if a stud snaps!

And on testing it, I do hear a firm metallic click when I release vacuum from the line to it so it sounds free. I think the issue with my car is that with 207k miles on it, the inlet manifold is probably badly choked with oil and carbon so taking that off and cleaning it is time better spent.

[ozfrog]

It might be worth firing PlusGas an email and asking if they have an AUS distribution arm setup or compare the data sheets of what you have to PlusGas rather than spending money perhaps unnecessarily.

I get 'free' phone calls to the UK, so I was going to make a phone call based on the information on that tin. My phone didn't connect to anything when I pressed the numbers and letters corresponding to what's on the tin. And, unfortunately, no one I've spoken to understands what it means.

I thought that the address might be more useful, so I looked at the map and went to street-view. They've even changed the name of the building!

Can't rely on anything these days.

The Wurth stuff cannot be cheap which is why I will have never bought it.

It probably isn't cheap, but I had a mechanic friend before I moved house who used to give me his near-empty cans of things like that. He couldn't be bothered with getting the last bits out of spray cans, so he gave me all of his near-empties. I'm down to my last one now. I might have to pay soon!

Now to look at EGR question...

… after my reply where I jokingly said, "DON'T DO IT!"

That was a joke? I really thought you were being serious!

… but basically I've put it off because it looks to be one of those jobs that is nasty to do and I have access to a proper ramp at a mate's which makes it easier if anything.

I don't know what the access is like on the Citroën, but if it's anything like the 307, a ramp isn't going to help you. Nor will a pit. Nor will a mechanic's hoist. The easiest way that I can see is to remove the engine! I'm not saying that is what I'm going to do, but it does look like the easiest way (to me).

I've also talked to a couple of old-timer mechanics (properly trained, but definitely old-skool) who say that they can't be bothered with these things and simply blank off the EGR. You probably can't get away with that with your annual emissions testing as part of your MOT. In my state of Australia, we had annual emissions testing some years back. There were problems of some kind, and the whole programme was scrapped. In other states of Australia, they don't have any annual vehicle inspections!

Couple to that, is the fact I can see that the studs which hold it on are so badly corroded on mine I am 99.9% sure they are going to snap however judicious I am with patience. And then it is surely take the turbo off, the exhaust manifold, drill and helicoil the manifold and put it all back together. Got to be a day's job if a stud snaps!

And on testing it, I do hear a firm metallic click when I release vacuum from the line to it so it sounds free. I think the issue with my car is that with 207k miles on it, the inlet manifold is probably badly choked with oil and carbon so taking that off and cleaning it is time better spent.

That's why I said taking the engine out looks like the easiest method to me.

[Paul-R]

My phone didn't connect to anything when I pressed the numbers and letters corresponding to what's on the tin. And, unfortunately, no one I've spoken to understands what it means.

If you mean the Knightsbridge number that format has been a long time discarded. Probably early 60s, although I'm sure that some ex BT employees will put me right.

[ozfrog]

If you mean the Knightsbridge number that format has been a long time discarded. Probably early 60s, although I'm sure that some ex BT employees will put me right.

I did mean that Knightsbridge number on the tin.

I had hoped that my other comments around that one would have been enough to make sure that people understood that I was not being very serious. But I should have thought about the dangers that meaning and tone are next to impossible to convey successfully online

[ozfrog]

A very happy tale to report. Well, maybe more than one happy tale.

EGR valve was ordered about 3 weeks ago. I decided against the genuine part because it was going to take a minimum of 4 weeks to arrive into the dealer. And the price was not remotely competitive. I don’t have the exact price to hand at the moment, but it was in excess of $1100 Australian. I could have afforded it, but I couldn’t justify it.

I purchased a mid-priced valve with the branding NGK and NTK for the amount of $229.66 Australian. The cheapest valves are less than $90 Australian.

[My conversion is
$1100 = £584.69
$229.66 = £122.07
$90 = £47.84]

The people at the online parts shop were most helpful and kept me updated on when the valve was handed to the courier, which was about 3 days. The courier company then took 2 weeks to deliver it to me. I will never understand how they think they are being efficient. The package went to two different locations in Melbourne before it travelled to Sydney where it went to another two different locations. Maybe it was three in Sydney. But I live about half way between Melbourne and Sydney. It would never occur to them to have some extra stops along the way to drop off some items for local delivery. Let’s just make sure that the customer has to wait as long as possible.

Anyway, it was fitted on Thursday afternoon. It is not too bad a job. Possibly the worst parts are removing the body trim and mouldings. Time consuming and fiddly. I’m glad the mechanic did most of that work!

The battery and the battery box both came out as did the air filter. And once they were out, the valve was pretty easy to see. To find where the bolts were, we used the new one to guide us. And they came off quite easily. No need for any penetrating oil to loosen rusty bolts. That was unexpected, but very welcome!

The old valve came off and it was easy to see through it, even though it is a bent piece. It was not as carboned up as I thought it would be. I don’t know what caused it to jam open.

The new valve went in like a perfect fit, and once it was bolted properly, and the battery was connected, we started the engine to check that everything was working properly. It ran like a new car.

Back to refitting everything and that seemed to take even longer than taking the bits off. Once everything was back on, the mechanic was keen to take it for a drive. I was allowed to be the passenger in my own car.

There are a few steep hills going in and out of town. One of them I had to take in first gear before the valve was replaced. The speed limit on that stretch of road is 100 km/h, but in first gear, I was not going anywhere near that speed! This time, 6th gear and 100 km/h was easy. And the cruise control worked! In this country, it’s a necessity.

I think the wipers were put on in the wrong order because they are now jammed into each other. I tried to ‘unjam’ them last night, but it was too cold to stay out long enough and too dark to see properly.

There are still a couple of other problems but they seem minor. Except for one. It might belong in the audio forum.

Thank you everyone for your interest in my journey with the car. Thanks especially to those who have helped me with advice and suggestions and recommendations. I could not have asked for better help than what you have given me. I hope that I have not caused you any more grey hairs although I’m sure that I’ve caused you some stress and frustration.

You are a blessing to me.

[MattBLancs]

I think the wipers were put on in the wrong order because they are now jammed into each other. I tried to ‘unjam’ them last night, but it was too cold to stay out long enough and too dark to see properly.

If it's like the first generation 308's wipers then, for us right hand drive folks, the wipers are illogical: longer blade on the passenger side, driver (right) makes do with shorter blade.
A lazy conversion from left hand drive!

Thank you everyone for your interest in my journey with the car. Thanks especially to those who have helped me with advice and suggestions and recommendations. I could not have asked for better help than what you have given me. I hope that I have not caused you any more grey hairs although I’m sure that I’ve caused you some stress and frustration.

You are a blessing to me.

Pretty sure I can speak for most contributors here - we all get a little kick from a successful fix, even if on the other side of the globe!

[ozfrog]

I think the wipers were put on in the wrong order because they are now jammed into each other. I tried to ‘unjam’ them last night, but it was too cold to stay out long enough and too dark to see properly.

If it's like the first generation 308's wipers then, for us right hand drive folks, the wipers are illogical: longer blade on the passenger side, driver (right) makes do with shorter blade.
A lazy conversion from left hand drive!

I'm not sure if I worded my comment poorly or you misunderstood what I wrote. Possibly a combination of the two. What I think is that the wipers have to go onto the car in a certain order, that is, the left-hand one has to sit either above or below the right-hand one when they are parked.

The longer wiper is certainly on the passenger side of the car. But it nearly wasn't the longer one. I thought it would break as I tried untangling the two. It was quite a mess!

[MattBLancs]

Ah, sorry - so have wiper arms as well as blades been disturbed?

Yes passenger left arm should be sat above the driver's right blade when parked at bottom of the screen.

[ozfrog]

Ah, sorry - so have wiper arms as well as blades been disturbed?[Yes.

Just like the owner. But that happened years ago.]

Yes passenger left arm should be sat above the driver's right blade when parked at bottom of the screen.

Then I’m correct.

The driver side one is a lot higher than the passenger side one.

[MattBLancs]

Yep, that's wrong!

Loosen the nut (might be behind a cover, normally just pull off) and with a bit of a wiggle arm should come free. Worse case leverage is required (painful learning by others has confirmed leveraging against the screen not advisable) but given yours have been recently messed with it shouldn't be too seized together I'd hope.

Should be more like here:

[MattBLancs]

Double check your wiper arm doesn't do this whilst you are there!
viewtopic.php?p=855125&hilit=Wiper#p855125


My (slightly modified) ball joint tool used for wiper arm removal:
viewtopic.php?p=855046#p855046