Peugeot 3008 Crossover 1.6HDi Allure - Is it a worthwhile car?

[Rhothgar]

Hi all,

This household could be venturing into Peugeot very soon.

The Missus' Smart failed its MOT and I did all the work. Drove it back to MOT station today and the rear brake pads were really smoking.

I told her it needed new pads, discs (which it did) and new calipers (which it probably didn't).

Anyhoo, it looks like the rear offisde hose may have collapsed internally.

NOW! Onto the bad news.

Despite spending days on it before Xmas and then before New Year (missing out on a week in Austria so only ended up going for two weeks), she had said she would look for a new car when this is sorted. I always tend to think better the devil you know where car changes are concerned...

So my mate at the garage, crafty bugger, said when Sylv comes to pick you up I'll just hand her the cars to this and she can have for £2000.

So the proposition is a 63 Plate 3008 as per title in pearlescent white. It's a lovely piece of kit and a bargain considering it only has 60000 miles on it!!!

Lots of gadgets so lots to go wrong.

It's only had one previous owner and the previous owner originally was the dealership with only 5 miles on it. Sold for £23k in April 2014.

The work it has had done at my mate's over the years is eye-watering. I need to double check to see if they were just estimates or actually work carried out.

There is one for £3600 needing ABS ECU presumably at just over a grand.

Tyres are something like 245/45 18 and cost £120 a pop.

It has an advisory for front discs and pads but they're cheap enough.

It needed a wing mirror at one point £450 I think it was. Mirror glass £68!!!!

This is the stuff my nightmares are made of.

SO....

To the Peugeot loving 3008 drivers and commentators on here, what is the low down on these vehicles and what to look out for? Common faults et al please.

It's a DV6C engine I think he said. I want to be sure that it has not got a wet cambelt.

It's the 115bhp engine just 1.6HDi. I saw when searching for discs and pads that there was a 1.6 BlueHDi version. Presumably that's one to avoid or do they all use this eolys oil?

At the price, she cannot say no unless there would be a really good overriding reason not to buy this model.

He replace injector 4 on it as that was shot and car apparently runs like a dream now. May well test drive it tomorrow when I go back up to do the hose on her Smart and get the ticket on that.

Thanks in advance guys!

[RichardW]

That's pretty much what I've got - but mine has grip control so is on sensible 16" wheels - the 18" is a really odd size and not widely available.

The DV6C is dry cambelt, can strip teeth so make sure it's been changed. Injector failure on early ones is common, bit pricey to fix...No turbo issues on these. Electrical faults can creep in as they age of course, and they tend to throw handbrake /ABS/ ESP faults when anything goes wrong, leading people on a wild goose chase. Rear discs have the integrated hubs so are a bit dear when time comes. The rear hatch is a bit of a gimmick, the upper part is short so you can stand under it, the lower part just gets in the way of putting stuff in, and is really too high to sit on.

All in all I like it, and it drives nicely. But.....


There's no getting away from the fact it's fugly!!!

[Rhothgar]

That's pretty much what I've got - but mine has grip control so is on sensible 16" wheels - the 18" is a really odd size and not widely available.

The DV6C is dry cambelt, can strip teeth so make sure it's been changed. Injector failure on early ones is common, bit pricey to fix...No turbo issues on these. Electrical faults can creep in as they age of course, and they tend to throw handbrake /ABS/ ESP faults when anything goes wrong, leading people on a wild goose chase. Rear discs have the integrated hubs so are a bit dear when time comes. The rear hatch is a bit of a gimmick, the upper part is short so you can stand under it, the lower part just gets in the way of putting stuff in, and is really too high to sit on.

All in all I like it, and it drives nicely. But.....


There's no getting away from the fact it's fugly!!!

Hi Richard

Hope you're keeping well.

What is the servicing interval for cambelt please? Car has only done 60k miles so I doubt it has.

How big a job is that assuming you've done one yourself?

Interestingly, this one appears to be a 2014 facelift model despite being on a 63 plate. It was registered in December 2013.

Perhaps you have the earlier model which I have seen and whilst not a swan it's certainly nowhere near as bad as the Fiat Uglipla!

£2k for a 63 plate with 60k on it is ridiculously cheap and even though it's a good friend it still worries me why he would let us have it so cheap. It's incredibly generous and he is a top chap. I couldn't find anywhere that was offering this for less than £4500.

Had a good luck through the service history and there are some horrible work estimates from him for the previous owner. The last one being £3600 in July 2023! This include a new ABS block and new RTX receiver.

He managed to get an ABS block on Ebay for only £46 instead of £1200 which Peugeot were asking. It's not clear if the RTX receiver has been dealt with.

There are invoices in there for replacing and recoding the radio for iro £500 and a wing mirror for £450!!! Also, a bit of paintwork to the nearside rear presumably after a scrape.

It's a once-in-a-lifetime offer I reckon.

Also, it seems to get through tyres fairly regularly. Maybe that's one downside but of course the driver could have been a lunatic.

[RichardW]

Cambelt is 10 years or 112k - mine is also Dec '13 (but a Mk 1) so over 10 years, and 93k, not done it yet, job for the spring! I have done a 16V engine before, and the belt is pretty much identical. Not too hard, all timed with pins, and a spring tensioner with an indicator. A set of timing pins is cheap. Plenty of You tube vids on how to do this engine.

Haven't noticed an appetite for tyres on mine, 25k or so on the front, more on the rear (not Xantia rear length mind you, but then nothing is!)

£2k seems very cheap, I ran mine through WBAC at 60k and it comes back at £3325 - check it's not a previous Cat car?

[Rhothgar]

Cambelt is 10 years or 112k - mine is also Dec '13 (but a Mk 1) so over 10 years, and 93k, not done it yet, job for the spring! I have done a 16V engine before, and the belt is pretty much identical. Not too hard, all timed with pins, and a spring tensioner with an indicator. A set of timing pins is cheap. Plenty of You tube vids on how to do this engine.

Haven't noticed an appetite for tyres on mine, 25k or so on the front, more on the rear (not Xantia rear length mind you, but then nothing is!)

£2k seems very cheap, I ran mine through WBAC at 60k and it comes back at £3325 - check it's not a previous Cat car?

Hi Richard

I watched a really good video on YouTube about cambelt changes. DIYDaly. Check him out if you haven't already. Really clear and concise videos on all manner of 3008 servicing.

Took it for a test drive today. It's a really nice drive but it was pinking really bad under hard acceleration and through the rev range. Only got 59500 miles on it. I even gave it a jetwash at my mate's because it was so filthy. It had clearly been sitting forlorn for some time. On one of the work estimates there was a customer comment along the lines of "don't do any further work on it as it may be decision time". This was on the estimate for £3600 worth of work.

There were lots of fault codes from March 2023 which my mate will have cleared including EGR valve and others:-

U1213, P0493, U1218, P0409, P0490, P12B4, P0500, P129F, P0401, P0271, P12AB, 1.05FF

He was unsure whether they had done the EGR so I am imagining probably not.

One of those codes is probably MAF sensor too. It drove nicely otherwise for the 20 minute run we did.

A few little nicks here and there on the paintwork and some overspray to the glass roof edge. I did previously see an invoice for £200 for paint and also one for a new wheel though I cannot recall if they were around about the same time. The rear bumper is sticking out a tiny amount on the side edge where it meets the wing. Minor but it's clearly had a knock.

Will probably do an HPi check anyway though I'd doubt there would be any finance issues with it.

Insurance is £350 - £400 depending on excess choice.

Not sure it has it but it would be a nice touch if the heads-up display and mirrors can be programmed for different drivers!

It also needs the lower nearside sill trim. £242 I believe from Peugeot. Would you be able to tell me the part number or should I post in the Parts Bin section?

[RichardW]

Outer still trim on this one is 'with chrome' - part no 7009P9 @ £281.69 - £242 is the right price for the ones without chrome...

Heads up / mirrors are not programmable for different drivers, but it's easy to adjust the HUD, and if there's not a massive difference in height you may be able to find a position that suits both. The graphics are right out the 80's (especially if you have the distance alarm on!), but it is really useful with the speed and cruise status right in your eye line.

[Rhothgar]

Outer still trim on this one is 'with chrome' - part no 7009P9 @ £281.69 - £242 is the right price for the ones without chrome...

Heads up / mirrors are not programmable for different drivers, but it's easy to adjust the HUD, and if there's not a massive difference in height you may be able to find a position that suits both. The graphics are right out the 80's (especially if you have the distance alarm on!), but it is really useful with the speed and cruise status right in your eye line.

Mate must have quoted his original customer wrong them so there is no doubt VAT on top of that too! YIKES!

The HUD is a really nice feature and will be really useful if she gets the car. She found it distracting but I think at least for a while it would make a massive difference whilst getting used to the car in terms of size and spatial positioning ie keep your head up instead of worrying about speed as it's right in front of you.

I take it is displays more than just speed then. Again, that would be really useful.

The pinking really concerns me. Been reading up a little today on the general internet. Could be oxygen sensor, air mass meter and perhaps the EGR is adding to it. All a lot of money if that all needs changing along with the cambelt at 10 years! No change out of £500 if you're lucky.

[RichardW]

That price includes VAT.

On the HUD (in mine, face lift might be different) you get speed, cruise/limiter info, and there's a time to the car in front feature - a bit of a gimmick, but it's surprising how far away 2 seconds is at high speeds!

A diesel can't 'pink' as such, you can only get ignition once you inject the fuel. If there's excessive diesel knock (which I suppose is the same thing) it might have a dodgy injector, or maybe one has been replaced and not coded properly.

[Rhothgar]

That price includes VAT.

On the HUD (in mine, face lift might be different) you get speed, cruise/limiter info, and there's a time to the car in front feature - a bit of a gimmick, but it's surprising how far away 2 seconds is at high speeds!

A diesel can't 'pink' as such, you can only get ignition once you inject the fuel. If there's excessive diesel knock (which I suppose is the same thing) it might have a dodgy injector, or maybe one has been replaced and not coded properly.

I did mean to exercise caution using the word 'pinking' as it only refers to petrols but that is what is sounds like.

I imagine the injector has been coded properly. He uses the 'Thinkcar' system. At least that is what the report was. Of course, I do not know how he actually re-coded it. He may have used his Bosch KTS kit.

But maybe the injector was fitted, he got called to look at another job and forgot about it. Who knows?

If one injector has gone, presumably they have all been checked by a diesel company. Then again, if your diagnostic tool tells you one injector has gone then maybe he just replaced that and maybe the customer didn't want to spend any more money on the car. As previously mentioned, there is definitely a comment to that effect on the July or August estimate.

Please may I have a part number for the EGR valve? I'm pretty sure that has not been done.

[RichardW]

Pretty complicated!

And the prices are

[Rhothgar]

Pretty complicated!



And the prices are

Indeed. I can't say I've ever seen anything like it. Part 7 is what I thought was the valve and it clearly is. I am trying to get my head around how you would diagnose whether it is a problem with the valve or the module.

If you need both, you'd throw the car away...

Maybe this is why she needed rid and sold it to my mate. I dunno.

[Rhothgar]

Cambelt is 10 years or 112k - mine is also Dec '13 (but a Mk 1) so over 10 years, and 93k, not done it yet, job for the spring! I have done a 16V engine before, and the belt is pretty much identical. Not too hard, all timed with pins, and a spring tensioner with an indicator. A set of timing pins is cheap. Plenty of You tube vids on how to do this engine.

Haven't noticed an appetite for tyres on mine, 25k or so on the front, more on the rear (not Xantia rear length mind you, but then nothing is!)

£2k seems very cheap, I ran mine through WBAC at 60k and it comes back at £3325 - check it's not a previous Cat car?

Did you get around to doing the cam belt on yours in Spring?

Need to do it ideally this weekend and have actually messaged Marc under the Parts Request to find out if there is information on how to do this?

I will look back at YouTube too. I think I recall watching a good video before she bought it and here we are nearly 7 months on!!!

[RichardW]

Yes did the belt earlier in the year. There are loads of you tube videos on this engine. You can probably do it without removing the scuttle panel, but it makes it much easier if you take it off - and this will give access for the air and diesel filters. Note there are several different timing kits if you go non dealer - I used an SKF one. You can do it with drill bits, but a set of timing pins is cheap, and saves you jagging your hand on the sharp end of a drill bit! Many of the videos show the use of the flywheel pin (centre line of engine above the exhaust) as a timing pin, but it is not - it is only for holding the crank whilst you undo / tighten the crank pulley, and is not at the timing position. You probably need an E spline socket and T40(?) for the engine mount, and also a 16mm spanner. Crank bolt should be replaced - a decent kit will come with a new bolt.

[GiveMeABreak]

Procedure is now up Roger - I had time to do it this evening - see my post Here with Links

[Rhothgar]

Procedure is now up Roger - I had time to do it this evening - see my post Here with Links

Brilliant! Many thanks Marc. Really appreciated.