308 Multiple Faults

[GiveMeABreak]

Make sure you follow the correct procedure for disconnecting and reconnecting the battery or you can end up with electrical problems:

BSI Reset / Battery Disconnect / Reconnect Procedure

The siren only has one value that should be set to:

Type of intrusion alarm siren sound: Intermittent

The alarm ECU I think you are not touching, but that has more parameters that would need checking if replacing.

As for the other faults, you need to pop the exact codes up for me and I'll have a look later. However, if you have a fault on the locking system, then of course that can also be triggering the faults - unless it was as a result of not following the procedure above Tom.

I'm out now for a few hours, so will catch up later.

[GiveMeABreak]

Update:
Swapped siren for replacement second hand unit. No difference noticable on locking the car or status shown for the alarm on Diagbox.

For completeness all fault codes are given below. Is there an easy way of printing of these from Diagbox 9.68 on a v. machine?

Will add more details in next posts as the post editor keeps losing data if I take too long.

[Tom309]

Alarm status:

[GiveMeABreak]

Tom

If you'd posted all these faults up earlier it would of been useful in that I'd have advised against everything you have done concerning the alarm. That is the least of your problems according to these faults!

I've now split this topic off into it's own thread.

I don't think I'm going to be able to help you as whilst you have issues with the BSI and the engine ECU you are going to be having multiple system faults as is apparent from all these faults. It's not going to help addressing these other issues until you get the main BSI faults sorted. The BSI is the main computer and this controls all the traffic to and from the other ECUs on the data networks. If there are issues here (as there seem to be many) then it is quite clear that other systems will be affected.

This really needs to be taken to a dealer to or a specialist with proper CAN testing equipment to find out where the faults are if not in the BSI / Engine ECU itself.

I can put some fault descriptors up, but I don't think this is going to tell us anything new. If the BSI is faulty then it will be throwing up faults everywhere as looks like the case here.

But - before you do anything else: Check the passenger fuse box in the glovebox compartment and make 100% sure that the SHUNT fuse is in the 'Customer' mode and not in the 'Park' position. I've lost count of the number of times people have removed fuses to check them and put the SHUNT fuse back in the wrong position, which by design shuts down a lot of electrical equipment and systems for long term storage when the car won't be used. Consult your handbook for the correct position, but you may well need a bright torch to read the markings to show the position.

[Tom309]

Hi Marc,
Yes the shunt is in the "client" position. Some of the errors have been there for years, some only just appearing over the last couple of days when doing the BSI re-boot. I was detailing the new old/faults but the editor crashed on me.
I had thought I was doing the BSI procedure correctly. Note I could not follow the instructions exacxtly as the -ve terminal is hidden on the 308 P9 and is a pain to disconnect, but disconnecting the positive termial should have the same affect. Also as already noted, I can't switch from lights "off" to "sidelights" as there is an "auto" setting inbetween.

I will put the car back together and start clearing faults and then see which reappear.

[Tom309]

One more observation as I had already measure these:
Having measured a strange voltage on the alarm module (8.6V) pin 2 to 3, I thought that I would see if the new one was any different. It wasn't, but I'm even more baffled by the results:

Notes:
I can't measure the voltage at the siren plug when the siren is plugged in.
All the results from the siren plug were steady when measured by a DVM. When the ignition was on or engine running, the voltage measured on the alarm module was varying slightly so the range of voltage is recorded.

It is very strange as according the the wiring diagram the two points are connected together.

[GiveMeABreak]

I really think any work on the alarm is a lost cause whilst you have these other more important faults - it's really not going to make any difference with the other issues as I can see.

My remaining thoughts on this based on fault codes below:

• Either the BSI has become corrupted, or a garage or other person has attempted and failed or attempted and aborted a BSI update, leaving it unconfigured correctly.
• There is a serious voltage problem with the vehicle affecting the operation of the electrical systems including the BSI (Based on the Network Maintaining Device faults)
• There is a fault with the BSI itself.
• There is a fault on one or more CAN networks.

See the number of faults concerning the BSI below.

Other faults for which I don't have full info:

U1F3E 87: Touch screen: Absence of communication with the telematic unit
U1F18 88: Touch screen not communicating on the multimedia CAN
B1004 1C: Multifunction control panel or touch screen: Touch screen: Voltage outside range
B1137 01: Right dipped beam fault: Short circuit to positive or short circuit to earth or open circuit
B1138 01: Left dipped beam fault: Short circuit to positive or short circuit to earth or open circuit

Note For fault: B1003 00, your vehicle may not have all the functions listed - this was from another vehicle, just to ge the cause, but the suspect areas are the same - the BSI Configuration.

Fault Code:	B1174 95
Description of Fault:	Fault adaptation of the windscreen sensor impossible. Absence of automatic wipe (For at least 6 seconds), Error during downloading of the calibration.
Conditions for Fault to clear:	End of malfunctioning of the rain sensor
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	The rain and brightness sensor does not measure the rainfall
Symptoms:	No automatic wipe
Suspect Areas:	Rain and brightness sensor Location on the windscreen of the rain sensor

Fault Code:	P1B71
Description of Fault:	Network voltage maintaining device triggering line fault : Short circuit to earth or open circuit. Short circuit to earth for 500 ms
Conditions for Fault to clear:	-
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	Impossibility of starting the internal combustion engine with sustaining of the voltage Automatic stopping of the internal combustion engine not possible (Stop and Start function)
Symptoms:	Starting problem Absence of automatic stopping of the internal combustion engine
Suspect Areas:	Network voltage maintaining device Electrical harness Ignition positive supply

Fault Code:	C1406
Description of Fault:	Overheating of the power steering motor or ECU. Possibility 1 - The operating temperature of the electric power steering motor is too high - The time for recording the fault code is 1 milliseconds Possibility 2 - The temperature of the electric power steering ECU is too high - The time for recording the fault code is 1 milliseconds
Conditions for Fault to clear:	Ignition switched off and on again
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	Limiting of the assistance by at least 60 % following the increase in temperature
Symptoms:	Steering stiff
Suspect Areas:	Electric power steering ECU

Fault Code:	U1F2E
Description of Fault:	Absence of communication with the engine management ECU. Absence of communication with the engine management ECU on the intersystems CAN.
Conditions for Fault to clear:	-
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	Automatic stopping of the internal combustion engine not possible (Stop and Start function)
Symptoms:	Absence of automatic stopping of the internal combustion engine
Suspect Areas:	Network voltage maintaining device Built-in systems interface CAN

Fault Code:	B1715 64
Description of Fault:	Lack of coherence between the vehicle locking status and the locking status of the front right door lock: Incoherence. The locking status switch for the front RH door lock indicates that information is inconsistent on the locking status of the vehicle. The time of occurrence of the fault code is more than 10 seconds.
Conditions for Fault to clear:	No coherence fault detected between the vehicle locking status and the locking status of the front right-hand door
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	-
Symptoms:	-
Suspect Areas:	Built-in systems interface Electrical harness Lock

Fault Code:	B1716 64
Description of Fault:	Lack of consistency between the locking status of the vehicle and the state of locking of the front left door lock: Incoherence. The locking status switch for the front LH door lock indicates that the information is inconsistent on the locking status of the vehicle. The time of occurrence of the fault code is more than 10 seconds.
Conditions for Fault to clear:	No coherence fault detected between the vehicle locking status and the locking status of the front left-hand door
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	-
Symptoms:	-
Suspect Areas:	Built-in systems interface Electrical harness Lock

Fault Code:	U1F00 00
Description of Fault:	Fault event not stored in the faults log. The BSI has not detected the occurrence of a fault sent by the ECU that recorded the fault code. The time of appearance of the fault code is 4 seconds. Conditions of activation of the diagnostics: Possibility 1 The following conditions have to be met - Vehicle stationary - Vehicle not in economy mode - Ignition on - triggered Possibility 2 Engine running
Conditions for Fault to clear:	Clearing of the fault codes using the diagnostic tool
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	-
Symptoms:	-
Suspect Areas:	Built-in systems interface

Fault Code:	B1003 00
Description of Fault:	Configuration fault. Configuration procedure interrupted or incomplete. Possibility 1 The following conditions have to be met - Vehicle stationary - Ignition on - Vehicle not in economy mode - Built-in systems interface supplied and not on standby Possibility 2 The following conditions have to be met - Engine running - Built-in systems interface supplied and not on standby
Conditions for Fault to clear:	The configuration has been carried out successfully
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	Deactivation of the cruise control and/or speed limiter function
Symptoms:	Problem turning the audio system on/off Problem accessing the telematic services Malfunction of the buttons or controls for access to the telematic functions of the multimedia system Impossible to activate or deactivate the blind spot monitoring function Displaying of a message or of an audible warning linked with the lane assist Malfunction of the reduced driver vigilance detection functions Displaying of a message or of an audible warning linked with the excessive driving time Activation of the cruise control or speed limiter function impossible Deactivation of the cruise control / speed limiter function impossible Unwanted deactivation of the cruise control or speed limiter function Unwanted activation of the cruise control or speed limiter Malfunctioning of the dipped beams Automatic lighting failure Malfunction of the front foglamps Malfunction of the cornering or junction lighting Malfunctioning of the headlamp height correction Malfunction of the main beam headlamps or of the main beams assistant
Suspect Areas:	Configuration of the BSI

[Tom309]

I'm having to type this yet again. When typing, the timer on being logged on to this site starts. It will then time out, log me off and then lose all my typing - How can this be avoided please?

Anyway better news,
I cleared all the faults except the two engine mangement (dpf filter & injector), one BSI & one Instrument panel - both showing as probably phantom.
Went for a quick test drive and the only faults to reappear are on the airbag (I had disconnected the battery to investigated these, which then caused the alarm problem).

BUT have now got a communication error with the siren. I forgot to plug it back in - how silly of me
I'm out of time today, so will reconnect tomorrow - but it is quiet when the car is locked by the remote

I'll see what other faults reappear and give and update next week when the spare alarm module should arrive.

One very late thought. I had to replace the car battery at the begining of the year as it died on me so some codes maybe from that. In hindsight I should have cleared the codes after, but as I usually see some when I do a global test and the battery was healthy I generally ignore them unless its in an area I'm investigating - sorry.

[Gibbo2286]

Type your post in Word or similar then copy and paste it here to avoid losing it.

[myglaren]

I'm having to type this yet again. When typing, the timer on being logged on to this site starts. It will then time out, log me off and then lose all my typing - How can this be avoided please?

When logging in tick the "Remember Me" box.

[Tom309]

Thanks again.

On typing the "Remember me" tick is cetainly better for the text.

Alarm/siren
I looked at the siren on Sunday and it appeared to be connected, but Diagabox still showed a communication error. Yesterday I got proper access behind the wheel arch liner and discovered that the connector hadn't been fully pushed home.

BUT with the siren disconnected the alarm behaves as it should except for the audible part. Locking the car using the remote button, had the indicators flashing in the normal way. If I deliberately triggered the alarm e.g. unlocking the door by the key and not the pushbutton, it caused the indicators and the internal alarm activation indicator to flash until cancelled.

When I have reconnected the replacement siren, it sounds immediately on locking the car with the remote. I'm was wondering if it just needed time to recharge the internal battery or if I have a second duff unit, or something else. I had measured 12.7V on the connection to the siren at all the times (ignition on/off, locked & alarm on both immediately and after 5 minutes). So it either charges continuously, or only when the ignition is on (as Marc suggested) being controlled by a signal from the BSI.
So I had a look at the standard parameters for the BSI alarm. This showed "Alarm charging authorisation" as "Recharge Authorised" (this is authorised by the ignition being on). So I thought good, all I have to do is drive the car for a while and it will recharge. So on a few journeys yesterday & today (driving in total for nearly 2 hours) I have checked and the BSI continues to say "Recharge Authorised", but the siren itself still only displays "Discharged". I was hoping that the siren status would have changed from "Discharge" to "charging" when driving. It may just go from "discharged" to "charged" after several hours of driving, but I'm now concerned that it may have latched itself into not charging?

I tried to see if there was a way to reset the siren under the pack repair for the siren, but on the replacement parts menu it only has the configuration (intermittent or continuous).
I will give the replacement unit a time to charge and see what happens unless anyone has a better suggestion.

Other faults
Over the last few days I've done a bit over 250 miles during several journeys (before pushing the alarm plug fully home).

I have found out what the problem is with the airbag. The wire under the seat has been pressed by the padding against the metal frame enough for it to force the wire core to the surface. This core then occasional touches the seat frame.

The only other fault to reappear (apart from those listed in my previous post) is the "Fault adaptation of the windscreen sensor impossible". This appears at initial ignition on. I think that I am to blame for this. The wiping speed for rain density was not quite right, so I investigated this when I connected Diagbox to look for the airbag problem. Unfortunately, I did an initialisation, which did not complete. I suspect more start conditions are required than Diagbox suggests. Note that if I clear this fault both the auto wipers & lights work normally.

BSI Reset
As a final test I did another BSI reset (or attempt at one). I followed the instructions as best as I could (auto lights), but on locking the car after programming the keys, the car does not lock. I have to press unlock first, then it will lock. Note that the bonnet is still open as the closing of this is not stated during the process. Should it be closed before locking the car for the first time? Also on the "then operate Central locking several times" stage, should this be lock (the car is unlocked) or "lock" first?

The BSI reset made no difference except it reproduced the "lack of coherence... door.. lock status.." and the "power steering overheating" faults. I noticed that the power steering fault is at 33657km (=20913 miles). The car is now on over 141k miles, so is this an old fault that it is remembering at reset? I'm unsure of the mileage shown for the lack of coherence fault, I thought I had recorded this before deleting the fault, but I hadn't.

So am I doing the BSI reset correctly / should I keep investigating or assume that the BSI needs reprogramming by Peugeot?

[Tom309]

Quick update on the BSI reset. Seeing others do this on internet, they do an additional step of open/close driver's door before the "operate Central locking several times" and after the "Switch off ignition, remove key through window" step.
Repeating the reset with this extra step, I no longer get the "lack of coherence......lock..." fault. I haven't noticed anything else changing.

[Tom309]

Hi Marc,
I wish to replace the bonnet switch shown as item 4 on the previous diagram before I take my car to Peugeot.
download/file.php?id=46169&mode=view

As noted previously it broke during my investigations (the mounting tab fell off). Would you provide a part number for it as Peugeot main delealers want over £70 for this simple switch!
Thanks

[SGREENE08]

Does anyone have any idea what these faults could be?

Everything died about a month ago, no lights on dashboard, couldn't open doors even though car was unlocked etc. Today it did it again, key fob wouldn't unlock the car, key in the door couldn't unlock the car, no dash lights (except alarm flasher), and after 5 mins all was normal again!

It also has an intermittent issue - every so often when I do over 50 it judders as if it's going to stall. I switch back down to fourth and work up through the gears again and all is fine.

Really grateful if anyone has any ideas!

[solcutter]

I know this is an old post I'm just wondering if removing this module would stop the car alarm completely?