308 Multiple Faults

[Tom309]

I'm unsure if I should put this in the 308 forum, but it does seem to be the same problem as described here.

On a 2015 308 I had disconnected the battery to try and locate an intermittent fault on the air bag. After re-connecting the battery and then locking the car using the remote key, the alarm sounds straight away. So I think that it needs the BSI reset as I didn't wait long enough before I initially disconnected the battery.

Should the BSI reset (as given in the 15th March post) work for a Peugeot?

Also on the 308 the light switch sequence is off, auto, side, main. So when re-connecting the battery, for the step "Switch on the side lights through the driver's window" should the lights be switched through "auto" to "side" or left in the "auto" postion or something else?

I've have had one attempt at the BSI reset using the "auto" to "side" sequence. This did not work, but I'm unsure if I exactly followed the sequence / timings or if it was the light position. I will try again in the morning, but any advice on the light setting would be appreciated.

[GiveMeABreak]

The guide is here:

BSI Reset / Battery Disconnect / Reconnect Procedure

The side lights part is not that necessary, it is there for the older cars, but is relevant to PSA vehicles. I think you have another issue going on to be honest. Have you had Diagbox / Planet on it and if so are there any faults showing?

[Tom309]

Hi Marc,
I've had a look with Diagbox and there's no faults for the alarm. I have always had (the last 2 years) some faults scattered through the ECUs mostly intermittent and with the car working fine, so have assumed that this is normal. On the alarm, I suspect that I can't monitored it through Diabox when the alarm is on as the ignition will be off? I'll attach a copy of the alarm's standard parameters tomorrow if that will helps as there was one at least that was shown as "unavailable" which I wasn't sure if that was correct. Which other ecus fault or parameters would be useful?
Thanks

[GiveMeABreak]

The alarm module may not give off any faults - hard to say, but if you are experiencing anything like frequent triggering of the alarm or it going off unnecessarily, then it can mean a fault module that needs replacing. The backup batteries in these units will ultimately fail and they can't be replaced, so a new module usually solves the problem, assuming it isn't a faulty sensor or supply issue. If it was a supply issue, I would expect the alarm to be going off all the time until it's internal battery depleted. So your car is coming on for 7 years old - so I've seen some last 13 years plus and some go a lot earlier - it varies.

Regarding faults - there really shouldn't be any faults showing apart from the usual glow plug / relay fault on HDi engines and one or two known ghost faults on certain vehicles when interrogating the ESP ECU and the car being stationary.

[Tom309]

Hi Marc, thanks for the reply.
Just looked at the car again, two things of interest:

1. The bonnet closed switch was loose and fell off when gently touched -clip broken. I suspect that this is not the core issue as it seemed to be working yesterday as Diagbox correctly showed bonnet open/closed position during testing. When the switch is open (button out), on locking the car the indicators don't flash and then the alarm goes off after 30s or so (which is normal for this). However, pressing the button in (closed) on locking the car, the alarm goes off straight away. I have temporarily cable tied the button "in" to show "bonnet closed" and will repair it properly later.
So I was just wondering if the button may have been a poor contact during the reconnection of the battery and this has confused things, but:

2. No faults with the alarm, but on looking at the Siren on Diagbox, it shows siren internal battery charge status as "battery discharged". So this maybe the problem.
So some guidance if possible:
- If it is nearly discharged, could it partially work (and sound) and not show up as a fault. Is this likely?
- Is the battery in the siren assembly itself?

. I have the part number 9677756080 from Diagbox. There are plenty second hand on Ebay. I guess one from a newer car (fresher battery) should not give any compatibility issues?
- Do you know the siren location on a 308? From the noise, it is towards the rear on the drivers side. I will look further after the rain has stopped.

[GiveMeABreak]

That will do it if the battery is discharged as it will be akin to disconnection of the supply (in the event of tampering with the supply from the main battery). The battery is internal - so it's a new module unless you have a fault in the supply wiring to the module preventing charging.

There is some confusion on the official docs regarding the location, as 8605, the 'anti theft alarm siren' is shown here under the wheel arch lining, but the siren is also shown in the second diagram at the rear at (5) ....

(1) Front right-hand door exterior opening control.
(2) Right front door lock.
(3) Right rear door lock.
(4) Tailgate lock.
(5) Alarm siren.
(6) Left rear door lock.
(7) Front left-hand door exterior opening control.
(8) Front left hand door lock.
(9) Built-in systems interface.
(10) Antitheft alarm volumetric unit.
(11) Anti-theft alarm bonnet switch.

I've PM's you about parts.

[Tom309]

Thanks Marc,
It's no5 in the second diagram for my SW. The sound was definitley, definitely rear, passenger side when I put my head in the wheel arch!! Also, I can just see the bottom of it above the wheel arch. I have ordered a 2nd hand siren and will fit when it arrives, but I was intrigued by your reply "The battery is internal - so it's a new module unless you have a fault in the supply wiring to the module preventing charging". Does this mean that it does gets recharged by the car's electrical supply or is it that it discharges faster if there is no supply. I'm mainly asking as for my ownership there has been no issues for alarm (up to now) and so should I be looking for a wiring / fusing fault as well?

[GiveMeABreak]

Hi Tom, yes that's correct.

The siren carries out diagnostics on its connection with the alarm unit and on its permanent supply. If the siren detects a malfunction, the siren is triggered.

• The siren has its own power source consisting of accumulators.
• Charging of the siren battery is only permitted when the status of the vehicle’s electrical system is other than "Off".
• If the siren supply is lost, the siren uses its power reserves and is triggered.
• The siren is able to carry out 10 triggering cycles of 30 seconds when it is disconnected from its electrical supply.

Here's the parts:

Item (2) Siren, Part: 9677756080, £141.13 inc. VAT

[Tom309]

I've now started the wiring fault finding and have located the alarm module (9673523380) behind the glove box and above the fuses.

Having removed its plastic lid (it is just clipped on), I measure +8.6V dc between pins 2 to 3 with the ignition on. I believe that this is the siren supply, but seems to be a strange voltage. Pin 3 is green/yellow, 2 is white and 7 (signal) is grey.
By Googling, I found this wiring diagram:

So it does seem to be the supply. Does anybody know if this is the correct voltage and if not, which component is likely to be at fault?

I can't replace the alarm module as I don't have a spare yet, so will move on to the siren as I do have a replacement unit now.

[Tom309]

Quick update: There is 12V between pins 2 to 3 when the ignition is off, with the car unlocked???

[GiveMeABreak]

That doesn't look at all like the wiring diagram for the vehicle Tom. I'll see if I have something more accurate shortly.

[GiveMeABreak]

8602 : interior protection unit (anti-theft alarm)
8605 : anti-theft alarm siren /

[Tom309]

Hi Marc,
Thanks for the diagram, but on my car I only have 3 wires connected to the main plug on 8602 (plus the two pairs for the sensors on the second plug). So the diagram above is not right for my car.

[GiveMeABreak]

My Bad, Tom, I was looking at the earlier 308 and not the 308 (T9) that was in a different location, apologies. I have re-posted the diagrams replacing with the correct ones for your T9.

[Tom309]

Thanks again for the WD- seems to be mine!

I've now managed to get access to the siren - rusty bolts again. So what is the correct replacement sequence - I would prefer not to set off the siren as it still works!

Should it be done with the car battery disconnected / Do I just unplug the old siren and plug-in the new one (it appears to still have 12V) / does it need any programming or resets in Diagbox.

Also when I have reconnected the battery after isolating for accessing the area around the fuse box, I now have two additional faults - "Lack of coherence between the vehicle locking status and the locking status of the front right door lock" and also for the front right door.