Xantia HDi Dash Lights

[Rhothgar]

Well I have topped up the coolant level because it was low but the light intermittently reappears.

Dommo mentioned the fans. Well I did drop the fuse for the fans under the battery I think so I need to locate that. But then surely the light would stay on?

The external temperature sensor in the dash appears to be working again. I am beginning to think it is down to high resistance in the wiring because of the route of the wiring and the fact that the footwell (certainly rear footwell did have standing water in it at some point).

It started at 47 degrees the other day then dropped to 14 degrees (which probably was the outside temp) and gradually rose up to 50 odd degrees.

Another thing for the investigation list.

[white exec]

Coolant level sensors often rely on a pair of metal probes that sense the conductive liquid in the tank.
The surfaces of the flat or round probes can oxidise, and acquire a coating, which makes them less conductive. Scrape the probe ends clean, back to bare metal. Any oil in the coolant can aggravate this, as it will cling to the probes.

To check the level sensor, short the probe ends (NOT the electrical connection to the sensor, which is likely to be powered), just as a test, and see if the low level warning disappears.

[Rhothgar]

Coolant level sensors often rely on a pair of metal probes that sense the conductive liquid in the tank.
The surfaces of the flat or round probes can oxidise, and acquire a coating, which makes them less conductive. Scrape the probe ends clean, back to bare metal. Any oil in the coolant can aggravate this, as it will cling to the probes.

To check the level sensor, short the probe ends (NOT the electrical connection to the sensor, which is likely to be powered), just as a test, and see if the low level warning disappears.

You could very well be right in this. The coolant was filthy.

I found the 30A fuse for the cooling fans and plumbed that back in. No change.

Is it easy to get access to the sensors?

[Rhothgar]

And the award goes to Chris (whiteexec) with additional awards to everyone else for their insight and ideas. I am sure I will find the information useful again in future.

Must start bookmarking things. First saw that facility yesterday after how long?

The conductor probes of the Cartier coolant level sensor in the water header tank were indeed encrusted. There are two probes with what appears to be upper and lower levels.

I am sure I am going to see the STOP light on every week as it does appear to lose water at a regular rate. I can’t recall the STOP light ever being on when the car was being regularly used previously so that’s something to keep an eye on.

[white exec]

Ta-da! (hopefully)

[Rhothgar]

Oh it worked just fine Chris.

I should have perhaps made that clearer.

Need to get around to stripping EGR, cleaning that, fitting new turbo if I feel like spending that kind of money, new MAF and flushing coolant system and fitting O/S window regulator.

[white exec]

Good. Those probes do look as of there has been a lot of rust sculling around in the coolant, so whatever was in there hadn't been doing a good job on the anti-corrosion front.
Can recommend LiquiMoly Radiator Cleaner (1 x 300ml can is enough), and Citroen's own 'PRO' coolant (standard blue glycol type). You'll get a hundred other coolant recommendations (like tyres, oil, fuel, screenwash...), but that would be mine. The cleaner is superb stuff - just follow the destructions on the can/website.

[Rhothgar]

Cheers Chris.

My worry at the moment is that I can smell that the heater matrix is probably leaking.

Flushing it out may cause another issue but... it has to be done at some point.
I put spirit vinegar on the green Xantia. That cleaned it out very well. Possibly a bit too well.

[Rhothgar]

Presumably the 1804 LM not the 2037 LM Pro-Line?

[white exec]

Not sure what those two ...LM numbers are.

The LiquiMoly cleaner is
https://products.liqui-moly.com/radiator-cleaner-7.html
#2506 here, but this number varies, depending which country you're in.
Product is always called Radiator Cleaner, or Kühler Reiniger.

The Citroen 'Pro' coolant is part no. 1135305 "Anti-Freeze", 5L
Ready-mixed, good for down to –35°C.

Vinegar is acetic acid, so will dissolve limescale, but also will have a go at reactive metals, like copper and aluminium. Forté Stop Leak is the only 'approved' leak stopper, which appears not to clog small waterways. If you need to replace the heater matrix, Nissens brand have a good reputation (available from Mister Auto, as well as other places).

[Rhothgar]

Not sure what those two ...LM numbers are.

The LiquiMoly cleaner is
https://products.liqui-moly.com/radiator-cleaner-7.html
#2506 here, but this number varies, depending which country you're in.

2506 is Deutsch/Espanol/Portuguese
1804 is English/Greek/Italian

If you click on one of the dropdowns, it tells you all the various part numbers. Great! I'll get one ordered. I bought cases of Prestone Coolant Anti-freeze some months ago. I may use that whilst I determine how back the live leak is.

Will probably go for some of the Forte Stop Leak too.

[Rhothgar]

The Citroen 'Pro' coolant is part no. 1135305 "Anti-Freeze", 5L

Just on to Citroen now. They're saying it's red and in 1L bottles. £9.45 inc. VAT per litre Part Number 1637854880

Will do it for £5+VAT per litre for me!!!

Other part number doesn't come up.

[white exec]

I think that different countries (PSA sales regions) might well stock different coolants.
The 'Pro' item I posted above is what's stocked here, and is also manufactured in Spain.
Presumably PSA allow local sourcing where this makes sense.

As always, just try not to mix anything with anything else, so lay in some extra for topping up.

Have noticed that Parts can block (or allow) part numbers used in "other countries", which is why the number might not be appearing your end.

[Rhothgar]

I think that different countries (PSA sales regions) might well stock different coolants.
The 'Pro' item I posted above is what's stocked here, and is also manufactured in Spain.
Presumably PSA allow local sourcing where this makes sense.

As always, just try not to mix anything with anything else, so lay in some extra for topping up.

Have noticed that Parts can block (or allow) part numbers used in "other countries", which is why the number might not be appearing your end.

Mate at the garage said it is listed as needing red but I think I only have blue. I think certain types can attack rubber seals but blue was prevalent before 2001 apparently.

Other thing I noticed about bleeding is you're supposed to let the fans kick in 3 times but with the heating on full tilt and set to max the engine temp won't go above 75 degrees (displayed). It's probably high enough will check with Lexia for accuracy. Thermostat tested fine. It's an 83 degree one.

[white exec]

Leave the heating blower off, and set to cold. This will speed up getting the engine to fan-cut-in temp.
Even with heater off, hot coolant will still be circulating through the heater matrix (it's always in circuit), so will bleed properly along with the rest of the system.

Colours don't mean much, although blue is commonly a standard glycol mix, while red tends to be 'long-life' or OAT.
Just don't mix them. If in doubt, go for the ethylene glycol type.