Hi, everyone! New member here, and first post
I've just completed the job above and would like to offer my encouragement to anyone trying it - especially as I'm now in my 70's!
Yes, same problem, with a knocking sound from the front of my 2009 C5 Tourer (while driving, you need your window open to locate its source ) on accelerating, braking, and occasionally on bumps. My local garage couldn't locate the problem originally but, when I took it for its MOT, and they got it on the ramp, they pushed the front wheels in and out. The lower suspension arm pivot support bush problem was obvious on both sides - and failed the MoT immediately!
Taking Carlsberg101's advice, and not wanting to hammer an alloy strut, I bought the Sealey VSE4785 bush removal/insertion tool for £69 off eBay, and the two bush/bearings from my local GSF for £30 as they had them in stock
The manual says that the original low-friction bolts and nuts should NOT be re-used, so I got two new ones of each from citroendirectparts.co.uk for £23 inc post
I used axle stands on both sides before taking the front wheels off, so I could use one side as a reference while working on the other. It also helped considerably being able to move the steering wheel freely throughout the job
After removing the nut and bolt for a bush, the first problem is moving the steel arm out of the way of the bush, so you can get the bush removal tool in. Here, I used a large crowbar to prise the two apart, followed by inserting a short length of steel pipe to keep the two wedged firmly apart while extracting the bush
The Sealey tool, which uses a 12mm threaded rod, makes the job really easy, without the need for a hammer. The bushes were the originals from 2009, but the tool still removed them easily. Make sure you oil all the threads before use!
After cleaning the area, replacing the bushes was just as easy with the Sealey tool, which registers and holds the new bush perfectly in place before pushing it in. Don't use a lubricant on the bush - you won't need it. Keep an eye on how far the bush is going in. At the end of its travel, when the bush flange hits the alloy support, the tension on your spanner will increase and that's when to stop...
As Carlsberg says, getting the holes aligned for the bolts at this stage is the hardest part. Working alone, using a crowbar for vertical alignment, and my knee for horizontal alignment, I was able to knock the old bolts in all the way from the front to get the holes aligned and keep them there. Once this was done, it was easy to carefully tap a new bolt in from the back, gradually pushing out the old bolt
The bushes that came out from both sides were totally shot, shredded, and easily wobbled by hand. I was amazed that the state of them hadn't been noticed on previous MoTs, because they rattle even when off the car...
Please note that I have nothing to do with Sealey. I was just really pleased with how well this tool (which I may never use again
) worked so beautifully and eliminated a potentially difficult and possibly damaging stage of the job
So, £122 for the parts to do this job, no labour costs, and half the price next time!
PS As your wheel alignment will definitely to need to be checked professionally after this job, this is a good time to replace your track rod links - which is a much more straightforward job compared to the bushes!
