Oil cooler location on 2004 Berlingo Van 1.4

[RichardW]

Pretty sure there is no oil cooler on this - most likely the head gasket has failed. Is it leaking oil at the cambelt end of the engine? These normally come fitted with an oil leak there, and replacement of the head gasket is almost a service item.

[GiveMeABreak]

Yes, as Richard says, no oil cooler on these - mostly on Automatics.

[RichardW]

You will probably find a leak from the front RH corner of the engine where the HG is - there is not enough clamping force on this end of the head where the main oil feed gallery is and it starts leaking. It's a very common problem on this engine! I'll see if I can get the procedure later, but I would imagine it would be covered in the Haynes manual if you can get hold of one.

[GiveMeABreak]

I'll put this up shortly if you like Richard, there was also a mod from the OP's RPO, so I'll put that up too.

Topic temporarily locked during procedure formatting.

[GiveMeABreak]

Procedure for Removal / Replacement of Cylinder Head - Berlingo (MU59) TU3JP Engine Only Specific

Also refer to the modifications made in the following post that affect this main procedure - please read those first, before proceeding!

Recommended Tooling

[1] flywheel locking tool 4507-TA.	[2] camshaft setting rod 4507-T.B
[3a] 4533-T.AC1 camshaft setting rod.	[3b] 4533-T.AC2 camshaft setting rod.
[4] pliers for removing plastic pegs 7504-T.	[5] set of levers for releasing the cylinder head 149-T.
[6] angle sector to tighten the cylinder head 4069-T.	[7] liner retaining clamp 81132-T.A1. [8] bolts M10x150 L 40 mm 81132-T.A2.
[9] TORX female socket STX 14.	[10] union for venting fuel pressure 4192-T.

Preliminary Operations

• Disconnect the battery. Refer to: (BSI Reset / Battery Disconnect / Reconnect Procedure)
• Drain the cooling system (see the relevant operation).
  Note: When connecting the tool [10], protect yourself
  with a cloth to guard against any projections of fuel.
• The wiper arm nut (10).
• Uncouple the fuel supply.
• Disconnect, unclip and separate the harnesses,
  hoses and cables connected to the cylinder head.
• Place a jack under the engine, support the engine.

Removing

Remove:

• The air filter assembly
• The ignition module
• The auxiliary equipment drive belt (see the relevant operation)
• The timing belt Using tools [1], [2] and [3] (see the relevant operation)

Detach the exhaust pipe from the manifold.

Remove: The nuts (1) The cylinder head cover (2) The spacers (3) The deflector plate (4)	Starting at the outside and working in a spiral sequence progressively slacken the cylinder head bolts (5). Remove: The cylinder head bolts (5) The rocker shaft (6)
Tilt and detach the cylinder head using the levers [5]. Remove the cylinder head and gasket.	Fit the liner retaining clamps [7] with the bolts [8]. ESSENTIAL: Clean the gasket faces with an approved descaling product. Do not use sharp or abrasive tools. The gasket faces must not have any traces of knocks or scores.

Checking the flatness

Max. out-of-true: 0,05 mm (max.).	Checking cylinder head bolts before re-use: Length under head (torx thread): Y = 176,5 mm (TU3JP engine) N.B.: Do not re-use cylinder head bolts if they are longer than Y mm: Use new screws.

Refitting

Remove:

• The retaining clamps [7]
• The screws [8] of the cylinder block

Clean the threads of the cylinder head bolts in the cylinder block, using a M10x150 tap.
Check that the two centring pins are present.
Fit a new cylinder head gasket.
On the cylinder head, camshaft gear wheel locked.

Refit:

• The rocker shaft (6)
• The cylinder head bolts (5) (wipe with MOLYKOTE G.RAPID PLUS grease)

ESSENTIAL: Tighten the bearing carrier screws in the order indicated (order from 1 to 10).

Tightening procedure:
Pre-tightening to 2 da.Nm
Tighten by an angle of 240 ° with tool [6]
Refit the timing belt (see the relevant operation).
Adjust the valve rockers.

Refit:

• The deflector plate (4)
• The spacers (3)
• The cylinder head cover (2)
• The nuts (1)
• The ignition module

Connect the:

• The fuel delivery hose
• The exhaust pipe to the manifold

Couple and clamp the harnesses, unions and cables attached to the cylinder head.

Refit:

• The auxiliary equipment drive belt (see the relevant operation)
• The air filter assembly
• Fill and bleed the cooling system (see the relevant operation).
• Reconnect the battery. (Follow relevant part of (BSI Reset / Battery Disconnect / Reconnect Procedure)

[GiveMeABreak]

Modification - All TU Petrol Engines

Valve rockers
From the following serial numbers:

• TU3 - 2 552 655

The valve rocker adjusting screws are modified:

• To allow the valve clearance to be adjusted, the heads are flat and hexagonal
• The diameter of the screw is reduced (M6 replacing M9)

Repair The new parts are fitted in place of the old parts. Tighten the nuts to 0,75 dan.m. The valve clearance remains the same.

Cylinder heads - Valve springs
From the following serial numbers:

• TU3 - 2 552 655

The cylinder heads are equipped with new valve springs: The spring bearing surfaces machined into the cylinder head have been modified.

Springs and thrust washers The springs ( 2) and upper and lower thrust washers (1) have a reduced diameter: The springs (2): External diameter = Ø 27 mm Thrust washers (1): Diameter = Ø 28 mm

Spring identification The new springs can be identified by their blue coating or by a line of blue paint (at "a").

Cylinder heads
The machining diameter of the valve spring bearing surfaces is reduced.

A = Ø 19,65 mm Always replace the ring seals 21,3.

Identification

Cylinder heads machined to the new dimensions are identified by a line around the mounting hole for the lifting lug (at "b"): Width: 10 mm Depth: 1,5 mm

Repair

The new parts are fitted in place of the old parts. To refit old springs: Fit new thrust washers (3), especially designed for the repair. Replacement Part Number: 095143.

[Sharkie]

check first if someone' didn't put oil accidentally in coolant. If it's black it's from engine sadly. if it's bright yellow/brownish it is probably not.

Oil pressure is higher on running engine than coolant pressure. That reverses when you turn it off.
With time it will eat/swell the rubber pipes and they will start bulging.

Oil cooler is sometimes integrated with the case of oil filter. Just follow water hoses that split off.
But in a weak 1.4 engine, might be worthy to look into a new engine/car. Cost of new head gasket and work might be more than the market value of said car.

[white exec]

Correct - oil from the engine in the coolant will be black.
As found, it will accumulate in the expansion tank (oil floats on water, and tank is usually a high point), as a black slick, so is easily spotted.

[white exec]

Brownish (meringue) is what you might see under the rocker cover on an engine that isn't regularly getting up to proper working temperature - eg lots of very short journeys. It is caused by condensation (water) under the cover not properly evaporating, building up, and emulsifying with the oil. Unusual to see that in the cooling system, but I suppose possible.

Just a thought...
If the goop in the reservoir is not actually black oil, am wondering whether you might have suffered an unfortunate reaction between two different coolant mixes - you did say you had recently changed both oil and coolant. Reaction between coolants can happen, and have been reported as producing sediment, crystallisation, slime or goo.
Before removing the head, it might be worth draining and thoroughly flushing the cooling system (with water), and finishing off with a system cleaner (LiquiMoly radiator cleaner #2506 recommended). Then refill with known good new coolant (use standard glycol type; avoid long-life OAT), and see what happens. Much less work and expense than HG.

[GiveMeABreak]

Often described as Mayonnaise, have a look at this post, there are some pictures of what this can look like:

viewtopic.php?p=625376#p625376

[white exec]

That does look like oil+water that has emulsified. The quantity of oil in there might be quite small.
Couple of QQ:
- is your engine oil black?
- what, if anything, had collected in the expansion tank? Any black oil there?

I'd be inclined to throughly flush the system out (garden hose), do a clean with the LiquiMoly 2506, flush again, and then refill with standard glycol coolant. That will leave the system clean, and free from previous coolant. Then see what happens, and how quickly.

[Sharkie]

Old oil is usually black or dark. If you just changed it recently it won't be that color and will look like mayo in the expansion tank. It's best to replace headgasket asap before water in oil eats the entire engine.

[white exec]

Looks like you're well into replacing the HG. Glad it turned out relatively easy to do.
Worth getting hold of some of that cooling system cleaner, as it doesn't take much oil to produce an emulsion, which I'm guessing is what the brown stuff is.

Good that engine top looks water-free. Oil pressure much higher than coolant pressure, most (!) of the time.

Mistakes in posts:
Hit the Edit button (the 2nd one in: pencil icon) to edit something you've previously written, then Submit to re-post it. The next button [×] allows your own posts to be deleted.

[white exec]

Other folk will know this engine better than I do, so I'm sure someone will advise on cleaning out the block.

For the block face and head, I'm a bit old school on this.
Try to use solvent (petrol, thinner) to shift as much grot as will dissolve.
Avoid anything that would scar the metal faces, such as a chisel.
Stubborn stuff: a gently used stanley knife blade, hand held, low angle, gently.
Gently use a large FLAT file across the surfaces, to remove grot, not metal.
Final clean up with petrol/solvent.
Check carefully for flatness, cleanliness.

[RichardW]

When I did my BX I cleaned the head and block with green pan scourers, worked, but took a good while! Note, it would probably be best to clamp the liners just in case you turn the engine (deliberately or otherwise) and wreck the seals at the bottom of the liners!!