C8 2.0hdi 16v 2005 - WHAT EGR Valve does it have?

[David_M]

Hi all, I'm having a hard time finding a seemingly non-existent or mighty rare EGR valve for my 2005 C8 HDI 2L 16V.
I'm pretty sure it's electric (I can't see it until removed but I need to do t quick and I believe it's a pig of a job! Is it?)

It's lurching and losing alot of power on the warm up phase, only at revs 1500-2000.

But, on ebay, every leccy egr says it's for my car but from OCT 2006!? (Mine's 2005) Otherwise it's vacuum but they don't seem to say which year for, and, lije i said, i think Mine's leccy.

I'm confused!

Anyone be able to help on this?

Thanks!

[Mihael_M]

Maybe this one : https://spareto.com/oe/1628rh
or this one : https://www.daparto.de/Teilenummernsuch ... d=77b73030
You didn't give enough information about your car engine and whether it has a DPF .
The second one is for Cat with DPF .
It's best to take out the existing one and buy one.

[David_M]

It has a DPF with a small Eolys Tank. . So there is a CAT with DPF? Both? I thought it was 1 or the other? Even more confusing!
Only 1 out of 4 companies on ebay that i asked and gave my car details & reg to, supplied me with a part number which they said was the egr for mine, which when i checked came up as a vacuum one. I do seem to have a lot of vac solenoids around the bay, at least 4!

[David_M]

Thanks so much for taking the time to help thus far

[David_M]

So I've looked at those 2 you gave me, 1srlt one is a Vac operated, maybe? But something ages ago made me think it was electric, so the 2nd one is electric and looks exactly like the ones on ebay that I've asked if will fit my car and they've all said that is not for my car. Still confused!? I can't remove it THEN wait for one to arrive as the car can only be off the road for 1 day maybe 2 max per week, soni need the new one hereready to fit for when i start.

[Rp0thejester]

As a C8 driver myself what makes you think it's an EGR issue? If you believe that's the issue have you run EGR cleaner through it? DPF means Diesel Particulate Filter, yeah I spelt that wrong. You have a diesel car, HDI, so no CAT as that's for petrol cars. The first thing I would do is disconnect the MAF sensor it might be faulty.

[wheeler]

The diesel version will indeed have a cat, its bolted in front of the DPF.
Diesels have been using cats for many years, if i remember right even some XUD engines on Xantias had them
This part is the cat & the DPF bolts onto it

[RichardW]

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[David_M]

(Sent again due to typos)
Well, a few months ago when it was doing it less often (it's been an intermittent issue) I was driving with my little Autel scanner on live data, looking at EGR Values, and as it 'kangarooed" down the road, the EGR was jumping from 5 to 95 like this...5 - 95 - 5 - 95 - 5 - 95 with each lurch, with no in-between, just those 2 values. When it didn't do it, and was behaving itself it was just on the one number (5 I think)
Plus, i have a friend who's a Renault dealership master tech, has been many years, so I trust his knowledge as he's usually been right in the past, and he said blank egr and see if it still does it. It's a mission just to do that though so I've just lived with it, for the minority of the time it chooses to be annoying, however, recently, it has been doing it a LOT on the warm up phase. Also, there's an added 'dull ping' noise (best i can describe it lol) over the normal engine note at idle during said annoying phase and also the exhaust tailpipe at the very end is very hot when it's doing it, when that "dull ping" noise immediately stops, the problem goes away with it amd exhaust is cooler. Something is opening/closing I reckon between the 2 states.

[David_M]

The diesel version will indeed have a cat, its bolted in front of the DPF.
Diesels have been using cats for many years, if i remember right even some XUD engines on Xantias had them
This part is the cat & the DPF bolts onto it

I've just been out and put my phone on record down the back of engine, it is indeed a vac operated EGR, followed the tube to a solenoid and pulled off tube, sucked on tube and egr is working as egr pipe to inlet gets too hot to hold when vac applied, then instantly cools down when vac dropped, so, I think egr is OK? Vac is present at the solenoid and this in turn contiues thru to the egr, and that appears to be working. Any ideas welcome as to this lurching and stalling from a standing start due to power loss. Intermittent, only on warm up phase right up until full temp then is sound as a £.

[wheeler]

On a vac operated EGR on this car there is no direct feedback sensor in it so just because the solenoid is showing change on live data does not mean it’s actually working, it only means the ECU is asking it to work.
The easiest test is to check the readings on the air flow sensor. With the engine warm & idling you should be seeing somewhere around 230-270 mg/cp. If you then disconnect the vac pipe from the EGR valve when its running at idle you should see the reading jump up to 500 mg/cp. this would tell me that mechanically the EGR valve is likely ok.
Yes blanking it of to test it is also a good idea.

[David_M]

On a vac operated EGR on this car there is no direct feedback sensor in it so just because the solenoid is showing change on live data does not mean it’s actually working, it only means the ECU is asking it to work.
The easiest test is to check the readings on the air flow sensor. With the engine warm & idling you should be seeing somewhere around 230-270 mg/cp. If you then disconnect the vac pipe from the EGR valve when its running at idle you should see the reading jump up to 500 mg/cp. this would tell me that mechanically the EGR valve is likely ok.
Yes blanking it of to test it is also a good idea.

So I did that testate full temp disconnected the EGR vac atvthe solenoid and the MAF reading jumped up from about 275 to 500 ish, did it a few times tk make sure.

Anyway I also removed the front intake double doser thingy and it was clean, I checked the operation of the 2 flaps, 1 was sprung open 1 was spring closed. The closed one was stuck closed, it took alot of sucking on the vac tube before it popped open with a loud click, then it was so much more free and was very easy to operate after that. Been out over 2 days in it and it's drove faultless from cold to warm, several times. This may just be coincidence?
I don't know what flap is what but maybe it was causing the issue of like it was breathing badly and revving past 2000rpm accelerated out of it maybe it needed that extra to open that flap? But that doesn't explain why it would go back to doing it if that flap has opened every day then surely it wouldn't have been so stuck? All i did was move it once and it was free then after that.

[Rp0thejester]

Can you take a photo of what you're talking about as it's quite puzzling to understand without a photo.

[wheeler]

So I did that testate full temp disconnected the EGR vac atvthe solenoid and the MAF reading jumped up from about 275 to 500 ish, did it a few times tk make sure.

That says to me that the EGR valve itself is mechanically ok
To be fair the vacuum type EGR valves on these engines don't normally fail, the electric ones seem to be much more troublesome

[Rp0thejester]

I can only suggest that you disconnect the MAF sensor if you have one. Next, as I found out recently on an MOT, check for exhaust gas leaks from the front exhaust pipe joint which should be attached to your turbo. I know it sounds strange but it makes sense if you think about it. If the engine,DPF etc has a leak then it will send the wrong readings back. Just run the engine and check it isn't leaking.