Peugeot Boxer 2.0 Blue HDI 120kW DW10 Engine Timing Belt Replacement

[Beviplex]

Greetings guys! Following the procedure from Haynes manual and taking advices from some YT videos. I’ve got stuck with my DW10 and would appreciate any advice and experience that you could share before I move forward.

Both, camshaft and crankshaft were secured with safety pins, old belt teeth position marked (on the belt, on camshaft sprocket and crank sprocket). New water pump installed, new roller and tensioner pulley installed. New timing belt fitted with the same marks at the same position on sprockets like the old belt, crankshaft checked and right position confirmed with the key on the top side of sprocket.

Here is the problem, once I installed tensioner pulley, I did pre tight the bolt that holds tensioner pulley connected to the engine block, naturally tensioner pulley already gave some tension to the belt but I’m not sure if this tension was enough or at this stage I had to pre tension tensioner pulley with hex key before doing 4 crankshaft rotations. In Haynes manual it just states that you have to pre tight the bolt to 15Nm but it doesn’t clarify if that bolt holds the tensioner pulley connected to the engine block or you have to take pre tension for these 15Nm before doing 4 crankshaft rotations. For me the belt was looking perfectly seated in place.

I did 4 crankshaft rotations and I was able to lock crankshaft and camshaft again. My marks during these rotations never matched again, they were always off. I removed locks and continued for 6 more rotations (10 total rotations) and still not able to match belt and sprocket marks.

I’m thinking that new timing belt slip the teeth or so during my rotations and that I lost camshaft and crankshaft synchronised. Am I correct? Is there any way I could check these stuff at this stage?

At some online sources I found that marks are missing due to number of teeth on sprockets vs number of teeth on the belt and eventually they will match again after so many crankshaft rotations. Can I continue with crankshaft rotations to make sure they match again or I could create some problem with more rotations?

Thanks a lot for your suggestions.

[LedZep]

Locking marks after 2 rotations must be aligned and i think and marks when i did mine timing belt using old crankshaft bolt for rotation (pic 2). Watch out because i saw a "mistake" in graphic brochure in Haynes manual.

It's better to make a fresh start if hopefully you didn't make the final torque of crankshaft stretch bolt. Also, is timing belt 116 teeth? (yes, it happened).Here some pics and video how to. Pay attention on how to fix slack of belt and sprocket pin when tensioner is released.

[Beviplex]

Thank you LedZep for your prompt answer!

Camshaft was secured as in your 1st attached photo. Crankshaft was secured with safety pin on flywheel side. Photo below shows camshaft sprocket marks and marks on belt:

Here below are marks on crankshaft sprocket and belt:

Once new belt installed all marks on sprocket and new belt were matching with the old one. After these 4 rotations required, my marks on new belt and sprockets are not matching. New belt has the same number of teeth like the old belt, I don’t remember if it’s 116 or 117 teeth.

Unfortunately I can’t do counterclockwise rotation.

I didn’t make final torque to the bolt. When you say fresh start, do you mean I could remove new installed timing belt and put individually camshaft in “pin in” position (secured) then rotate crankshaft for “pin in” (secured) position on flywheel side?

Also, out of curiosity if I continue clockwise crankshaft rotations is that allowed to do beyond these 4 rotations explained in Haynes manual? I’m thinking if I do many more rotations I could potentially reach to the spot that these marks on sprockets will match with the marks on new belt.

That will confirm they are both aligned and if safety pins installed I could pre tight tensioner pulley - the step that I missed if it was required to do so. It could also confirm that my belt is not slipping.

Just for the reference if someone find this video helpful that explains why marks on the belt don’t align with the sprocket after few rotations, here:



Thanks again.

[RichardW]

If the pins fit and you can turn it over without any internal contact it will be OK. Because of the ratio of the number of teeth on sprockets vs the belt it may take many many rotations of the engine to get them to come back into line.

[Beviplex]

Thanks Richard W!

Regarding internal contact it’s impossible to see that inside of the engine at this stage. My concern now is if camshaft can be individually moved to securing position then crankshaft then re-fit the belt and proceed with the missed step on tensioner pulley.

[LedZep]

Once new belt installed all marks on sprocket and new belt were matching with the old one. After these 4 rotations required, my marks on new belt and sprockets are not matching. New belt has the same number of teeth like the old belt, I don’t remember if it’s 116 or 117 teeth.
I didn’t make final torque to the bolt. When you say fresh start, do you mean I could remove new installed timing belt and put individually camshaft in “pin in” position (secured) then rotate crankshaft for “pin in” (secured) position on flywheel side?

No! Be careful, don't rotate crankshaft separately from camshaft without timing belt.You'll mess up timing of the engine with great risk of damage cause camshaft and crankshaft have different ratio cycle. 1rev on camshaft, is 2 revs in crankshaft. That's why paint marks doesn't aligned only after some revs. With "fresh start" i mean to rotate and lock again with 8mm pins camshaft and crankshaft in flywheel and THEN check the right fit of timing belt. Many mechanics, by experience, don't bother to lock flywheel side cause they have to pull out starter otherwise is difficult to lock.So they lock only camshaft and do it with painting marks also in flywheel. Don't trust the method cause it's easy to mess up and when you tight the crankshaft bolt with many Nm force and degrees, you stretch the belt forcing to one side.

If for any reason, pins don't align, locate the pinhole in flywheel how far is it, lock the camshaft with 8mm pin, take out the belt and with very gentle movements turn the crankshaft to find timing 8mm pinhole where you located it. Don't rely in paint marks.This is just for extra reference if something is messed up.Just lock sprockets in TDC with pins in Cam and crank (flywheel, 8.30 min in video). Put the timing belt in position (24.30 min) and tensioner pulley as in instructions, and make 2 full revs in crank and see if timing pins are align . Also maybe you have to "play" a little bit with wrench to find exactly the flywheel pin, because the crankshaft sprocket has a slack half a tooth, where you have to be exactly in middle when you release the tensioner. Have in mind that when you turn the engine, this half tooth in sprocket get misaligned because crank bolt is not tighten in torque yet.There is no reason to turn the engine to check the timing marks as you are already in TDC.This is an extra step when everything is ready and tighten, just in case. Just see the video.Our friend Alan, is very illustrative.

[Beviplex]

LedZep, thank you so much for your explanations! I’ll keep you all posted, cheers!!

[Beviplex]

Hey guys, just quick heads up as I’ve been busy a lot. All went well with “fresh start”, both, flywheel side and camshaft side were “pinned/secured”, timing belt re-installed at original marks that I’ve made. It was all normal that the marks were not matching after few rotations (they will eventually match after many rotations). The step that I’ve missed at the beginning was tensioning timing belt, even though the belt was not tensioned there was no belt slipping as the crankshaft was rotated by hands. YT video is really great, thanks a lot for your support LedZep!!!

[LedZep]

Great news.Really happy that i could help.