hard suspension c5

[thom0385]

Hello
I have a problem with the suspension on my C5 X7 2,0 aut. I have changed the 2 front spheres but it's still very hard as if its constantly in SPORT mode. I have checked the fuses and they are fine. Can it be an electric fault? It is only hard in the front and normal in the rear.
Best greetings
Thomas

[GiveMeABreak]

Read my post here on the correct bleeding procedure:

viewtopic.php?p=648493#p648493

[GolfMk1Vr6]

I have the same issue, any updates?

[Kees]

It seems to become an epidemic.
I noticed that each time this problem occurred, they only replace the corner sphere's.
In my last post i described a theory about this issue.
So you have to replace the center sphere also!!
Some people say that is very difficult, because the subframe has to be removed, well this is not true, how to do this the easy way is just remove the left drive shaft and a 6mm nut under the subframe to loosen the airco tube.
Then you can hammer with a chisel from the left side the sphere loose, and you have enough room to turn it from beneath the subframe with your hands.
Also remember the center sphere provides the smooth ride, not the corner sphere's!!
Greetings,
Kees.

[thom0385]

Thank you for the inputs. I have tried the bleeding proceedure and its still hard. Its like constant in sport mode. I will take a look at the center spfere, but i was a little sad to see the location. Thanks for the advice about removing the driveshaft it seems easier than removing the subframe. I will also carry out a Lexi check and give an up date about what it says. Im wondering if there is a solenoid or valve that could be the problem?
Best greetings Thomas

[Kees]

About the sport mode, there is a misunderstanding over this stand.
If you put the car in sport mode then there is in the beginning no difference between the normal mode.
There is no valve that comes in or out.
What change is the software.
The parameters/threshold are changed.
So if you ride a flat asphalt road, you will notice no difference between the 2 stands, only when the road becomes more bumpy you will see the car behavior is stiffer.
There are more parameters witch have influence between the 2 stands of the switch.
You can see this behavior with the diagbox.
Greetings,
Kees.

[thom0385]

hello again
I have now changed the center sphere (there was a lot of fighting....) and everything is assambled again. The rear end of the car lifts up and down nicely, but the front end stays completely at the bottom. I have followed the bleeding procedure that "givemeabreake" has posted and I have done it 7-8 times with no effect. Is there another method? I have checked that everything is tight and there are no leaks. Hope you have an idea how I can proceed...

best greetings Thomas

[Kees]

Mayby the solution is,,before you want the car move up, put the car in the low position, the start and just wait until the front rise, just then put it in the normal position.
Greetings,
Kees.

[Kees]

A question, did you remove, or change the position of the clamp on the stabilization as?

[thom0385]

@Kees
Thanks for reply.
I did the operation with the car in high position with the wheels hanging free, taking the pressure off on the valve on top of the right suspension leg.
I havent removed or changed position of the clamp, but i did remove the little stabilization arm in order to remove the lefthand side suspension leg, i will check up on the position of the clamp. Lets say the clamp is out of adjustment how do i get it back to normal position?
Best greetings
Thomas

[Kees]

I think the first thing you did was wrong, when you want depressurize the system Always put the car in the low position. If you don't have the diagbox then you can use the nippel on the right front strut and disconnect the battery then.
Now you did this in the highest position, because of the memory of the system he want to restore the highest position, even when you change the position with the switch.
2e: it's maybe possible that because you disconnect the little arm from the height sensor you put it back in the wrong position, because you can put the lever in a different position and even reconnect the sensor.
So my advice is, check the sensor and if this is oke, put the car in the highest position and just wait, because it can take a while.
But the car must stand on the ground.
Greetings,
Kees.

[Kees]

Here is a screenshot, the red part says, don't leave the wheels hanging loose from the ground.

[thom0385]

@Kees
Thank you for reply and the effort I really appreciate it and I will pursue the good advice. The question is how do I correct the problem of having removed the pressure while the wheels were hanging freely, can I do it with the Diagbox? It won't rise when I put it on high even if I leave it for some time, maybe because the pump runs a round for 1 minute time and then stops (I mean that's how they are programmed for to spare the pump.)

[Kees]

If it's possible to depressurize with the diagbox i should do this, but then in the low position and follow the procedure, i mean wait after depressurize 1 minutes, then disconnect the battery.
Wait a while before connected the battery, start the car and wait till the pomp starts and you hear a click, this means the system pressure is oke.
Then put the car with the switch in low position see is he will rise otherwise switch to normal position.
If he still not rise you can open the nippel on the right strut and check if the LDS flow out, but be careful not to open it wide, because of the high pressure.
Greetings,
Kees.

[thom0385]

Hi again.
@Kees I have now carried out the procedure and opened the nippel there is alomst no or very little pressure there wich i find weird. Now the search for pressure begins but where to start?
Greetings Thomas