Peugeot 206 Heater matrix and coolant manifold (thermostat and temperature sensor) replacement

[MattBLancs]

Morning all,

Going to set to with this job, this post will get pictures added later, I'll take snaps as go along and add them in later.

So, wet carpet on passenger side, slight sweet smelling a touch "sticky" between the fingers = coolant.

Matrix replacement isn't full dashboard removal task thank goodness. So I'm guided by a video Huskyxantia kindly found for me

Added complications Vs the video, posh 206 (GTi HDi) has CD changer in glove box. Also is. DV6 with air filter housing and other stuff rather in the way. Digging towards the coolant manifold at same time will generally be is the same direction, so hope both at same time is efficient way forward.

[MattBLancs]

My video guidance:

Worth trying some Forté "Cooling System Stop Leak" maybe.
Can be difficult to get locally but eBay and Amazon have it.

Doesn't clog waterways like some others are prone to do.

Yes the clogging is what worries me. I'll research how easily the matrix comes out , as Huskyxantia says, I think you can see at least the edge of its housing below the glovebox, so might be less involved to get at than I fear (if you listen carefully, you might just heat the underlying "please, please, please, PLEASE" there!)

Here Matt have a look

[Huskyxantia]

Good luck Matt.

[MattBLancs]

Remove intake pipework air intake to filter and filter/air flow meter to turbo inlet (jubilee clips, 7mm hex head)

Then air flow meter from air filter housing
8mm hex head and electrical connector. Retain the bottom one with the socket extension and pull it out together with air flow meter

Grab it like so

To avoid dropping it, bring it out like this

[MattBLancs]

Battery disconnected and removed, battery tray/box out 3x 10mm hex bolts in the base. Don't forget relay clamped in the back, 10mm nut

Relay on battery box

Battery box out

Next, wrestling off the air filter housing.

Remove lid first, 4mm Allen key head screws x3.
Then filter out. If a washable K&N then good time to give it a wash

Bottom of filter housing to be removed next

[MattBLancs]

A bit like this

Wriggling, swearing, head scratching, airbox scratching,

Then like this

(More of the same)

Finally coming free

Feel free to tell air filter housing what you think of it

V for victory, or something

Then I had a slight panic that my new manifold didn't have this lower hose

Lower rigid plastic coolant hose

But fear not, it is mounted on the screw on the bottom of the housing, but is a separate part. Mounting bracket is slotted so screw only needs to be loosened.

Decided to remove vacuum pump, two bolts bolt M6 but one 10mm head the other 13mm with a ball end for the air intake pipework mounting.

Vacuum pump removed

[MattBLancs]

Rear hose connector has push to release collar (as per fuel pipe connectors, some PCV pipework, but bigger)
Fuel filter, unclip and pull up a touch so can see what you are doing (can leave all the fuel filter connections as is, enough flex to see like that)

New and old coolant manifold thermostat housing

It appears that the one removed is the original given the date stamp here:

Data label

New manifold is on. Installing is reversal of removal. Only bit easier as you already know where the fixings are and the rear hose connection just needs clicking into place.

That concludes today's messing about, tomorrow heater matrix.

I've cleared all the normal front seat paraphernalia and emptied the glovebox too

[CitroJim]

Following with interest Matt

[MattBLancs]

Will edit this and add more + pictures later.

Notes to remind myself:

Glovebox T20 Torx

Glovebox fixings

Longer one is right side of CD changer box. Blue circle.
Hidden one inside.

Hidden fixing. 50mm long quarter inch hex T20 bit to show the amount of room

[MattBLancs]

CD changer, single DIN sized. Four rods needed.

Four rods, offcuts of washing line plastic coated wire rope type proved just a touch small on diameter to release the clips. 2.5 mm Allen key was ok. A second 2mm Allen key hooked through the CD slots allowed gentle pulling and got all 4 clips to let go.

CD changer clips - right

Rear

Left

Glovebox light easiest to pop out under finger pressure through the hole above CD changer

Light out

[MattBLancs]

Glovebox lid, nearly shut, pull out at bottom, clunk. Then open fully (as normal movement) then out from hinge side again comes off at this point

Hinges, sprung clips, pull out.

Note 2 hidden screws behind the hinges

Glovebox hooked "stops"

[MattBLancs]

Brake light switch is in the way of glovebox removal.

Brake light switch in normal position (behind glovebox)

Bayonet fitting, quarter turn

Brake light switch bracket

Switch dangles:

Glove box then moves back and down

First proper view of the target!

Coolant pipes

[CitroJim]

It's coming along nicely

[MattBLancs]

Undo the (single) M6 bolt. Has both 10mm hex and T20 fitting.

Bit of prizing with a flat screwdriver encourages pipe and matrix to decouple

Pipes can then be moved out the way

[MattBLancs]

At that point I had somewhat of a deviation from the video guide. "Just distort the dashboard a little to get clearance for the matrix to come out" which he then did with one hand and jiggled the matrix with the other, matter of seconds. That would have been lovely!

Instead, take one ratchet strap, and form a loop (through glovebox stop slot)

Strapped

Then I'd enough force to distort the dashboard sufficiently. Like so:

Put you left leg in,

Pull the dash right out

There's also a rivet on the left side, drilled that out in the hope of loosening things off, not much different. Brute force prevailed with the bit of leg action making the difference.

Old matrix fins quite mangled from earlier attempts so wanted to be sure I could reliably bring the dashboard clear out the way.