C5 X7 2010 2.0 HDI Driveshaft replacement

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molleresa
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Joined: 21 Jun 2021, 12:29

C5 X7 2010 2.0 HDI Driveshaft replacement

Post by molleresa »

Hi,

As the outer left rubber boot has been broken for over a year, the CV joint has started producing a whining noise. I'm thinking of replacing the drive shaft when I'm at it and is wondering if anyone can provide the procedure for this? My car has got the 2.0 HDI and 6-speed manual gearbox.

While I'm at it, I might replace the clutch as well as it sometimes slips when the turbo kicks in. Is this astronomically difficult on this car? I figure that half of the work is done when the driveshaft is gone...

Thank you!
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GiveMeABreak
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Re: C5 X7 2010 2.0 HDI Driveshaft replacement

Post by GiveMeABreak »

If you have the DW10BTED4, I've listed the procedure here:

viewtopic.php?p=602993#p602993
molleresa
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Joined: 21 Jun 2021, 12:29

Re: C5 X7 2010 2.0 HDI Driveshaft replacement

Post by molleresa »

GiveMeABreak wrote:
21 Jun 2021, 12:43
If you have the DW10BTED4, I've listed the procedure here:

viewtopic.php?p=602993#p602993
Woah that really helps! Can one do this without releasing all pressure in the shocks? And you don't happen to have access to the procedure for changing the clutch as well? The shop wants around 2000$ for doing all of this, so I'm rather desperate :P
j001
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Joined: 20 May 2021, 12:27

Re: C5 X7 2010 2.0 HDI Driveshaft replacement

Post by j001 »

I replaced both driveshafts 2 months ago (my first attempt). It's pretty straightforward if you follow the procedure. Be careful of the cables when removing driveshafts. The right one was more difficult, it got all rusty in the differential (left one wasn't, hm) and I couldn't move it, had to hit hard with rod and hammer, tried several times. Than you need to clean the differential with the brush and lubricate it. Apparantely it's normal, as that's what is described in procedures. Seems like X7 with AM6 doesn't lubricate well or at all (?). You might also chang seals, but heard it's not necessary with AM6, which makes sense as it got all rusty, hm. I changed only the left one, didn't bother with the right side seal. But you have manual gearbox I see, so doesn't apply to you, you actually might drain the gearbox as well, or it will flow out when driveshafts removed.
molleresa
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Re: C5 X7 2010 2.0 HDI Driveshaft replacement

Post by molleresa »

j001 wrote:
23 Jun 2021, 03:20
I replaced both driveshafts 2 months ago (my first attempt). It's pretty straightforward if you follow the procedure. Be careful of the cables when removing driveshafts. The right one was more difficult, it got all rusty in the differential (left one wasn't, hm) and I couldn't move it, had to hit hard with rod and hammer, tried several times. Than you need to clean the differential with the brush and lubricate it. Apparantely it's normal, as that's what is described in procedures. Seems like X7 with AM6 doesn't lubricate well or at all (?). You might also chang seals, but heard it's not necessary with AM6, which makes sense as it got all rusty, hm. I changed only the left one, didn't bother with the right side seal. But you have manual gearbox I see, so doesn't apply to you, you actually might drain the gearbox as well, or it will flow out when driveshafts removed.
That's good to know. Did you have the diagnostic tool to depressurise the hydraulic system or did you do it manually? Was there any problems while doing this? Changing the driveshaft seems straight forward, but I'm only imagining everything that could go wrong with the shocks...
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GiveMeABreak
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Re: C5 X7 2010 2.0 HDI Driveshaft replacement

Post by GiveMeABreak »

Just make sure you read the following warning about the system here:

viewtopic.php?t=62058

If the vehicle is going to be raised with the wheels hanging freely, then the system should be depressurised using either Diagbox to automatically do this, or manually on each of the front and rear axles.
j001
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Joined: 20 May 2021, 12:27

Re: C5 X7 2010 2.0 HDI Driveshaft replacement

Post by j001 »

molleresa wrote:
25 Jun 2021, 08:34
That's good to know. Did you have the diagnostic tool to depressurise the hydraulic system or did you do it manually? Was there any problems while doing this? Changing the driveshaft seems straight forward, but I'm only imagining everything that could go wrong with the shocks...
I did depressurize only front side manually through bleeder valve. Meanwhile I got diagnostics and tried to depressurize it with that. Luckily I unscrewed the reservoir cap before doing that. If you see fluid in the reservoir when in low position, it's too much and plenty will flow out when depressurizing with diagnostics, so remove it through bleeder valve before doing that. I have no problems with struts after changing driveshafts.