C5 X7 - Corrosion on rear hydraulic supply line

[baustromverteiler]

So I'm fixing a punctured rear hydraulics return line (already got some compression fittings for the PE-line) when I have a closer look and see some corrosion on the rear hydraulics supply line ...

upper line: return piping, lower line: hydraulic line. The shiny part isnt leaking oil, I just cleaned it up a bit to see better.

I didn't dare to scrape away the corrosion in order not to further damage the line, on the other hand I think that if the line was just held together by rust the high pressure on the supply piping would already have burst it. What am I going to to next? I was thinking scraping away the rust, use some penetrant conservant (fluid film a) an seal it up with some cable grease. Any assesment on how much of a good or bad idea that is?

I'm doing all the work in my driveway on ramps so I am not too keen on changing the whoe supply line, also probably citroen is going to charge an arm and a leg if its available at all ..

Thanks a lot!

[KennyW]

Have a look at my thread re this pipe burst when in the highest setting and dumped most of the LDS fluid onto the ground.

viewtopic.php?t=66453

It is relatively easy to fix if you have the correct materials and tools. It looks as though your isn't rusted through yet but when the high pressure side goes the fluid will come out rather quickly. my hole was the size of a pin head. I didn't realise it was hole in the pipe until it dropped right down at the back.

Kenny

[baustromverteiler]

Thanks for the Pointer!

Have you done this repair on a lift or in the ground?

Would you please elaborate on the procedure?

I'm thinking: remove all shielding in the right side, and under the engine, drop the tank (angst!), old line out new in? Did the new line come with fittings and already flared? In the engine bay I'd probably have to remove the coolant and LDS tank to get to the pump?

[KennyW]

Basically that's what I did.

The plastic shielding on the left side at the additive tank also needs to be removed. Along with additive tank. The exhaust needs to be removed at from back box unless it is slightly different on 136hp model because the fuel tank needs to be dropped to access pipe as it runs above the tank.

In the engine bay LDS tank removed, I also removed the engine mount but didn't need to remove the coolant expansion tank but unscrewed it from the bodywork.

The subframe is a problem as the pipe runs over the frame and then up the bulk head near to the top mount of the strut.

It could be dropped to allow easier access.

On the bulk head the pipe is protect by a plastic cover which has foil over the top for heat protection.

Fuel tank sender unit could be left on the tank but it depends on how much you have in there. The fuel tank is Plastic (HDPE).

I did all the work with axle stands and ramps.

I got the pipe made from ebay. If you have the correct brake flaring tools and piping you could make it yourself. It was normal bubble type flare with M10 brass connector to fix into hydraulic pump and rear connector at suspension. It came with a locking sealant something similar to Hylomar blue.

It's not a hard job but more of a PITA job

Hope this helps

Kenny

[baustromverteiler]

Thanks for taking your time to get into details ... still one more question :

You bent the hydraulics line by hand or with a brake line bender? Would it be wise to start from the middle so I can route the new line over/under/trough all the obstacles?

I tink I'll leave the line like it is for now and hope for the best and fix it in February when I have access to a friends inspection pit, its freezing around here.

[KennyW]

i started by running the pipe over the sub-frame and up the bulkhead to the top mount and then along inner wing to the hydraulic pump. Give yourself sufficient pipe to bend back into pump.

I bent my pipe by hand around a metal socket of an appropriate size.

the other tricky/awkward part is running the pipe up, over and around the electric brake module at the rear. Both are not impossible but be patient and get the sufficient pipe to fit the pipe ends neatly.

I couldn't find a length but it must be 4.5m long.

Kenny

[baustromverteiler]

Thanks for your valuable information!

[KennyW]

FYI,

Have a look at this link for pipe

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Repair-kit-9 ... 2749.l2649

Kenny

[baustromverteiler]

Thanks I was already wondering if you got the russian one;) ... how is the copper line holding up to corrosion? Have you treated it in some way or have you left it just bare?

[KennyW]

Covered in paint the best I could,not all the pipe can reached once fitted. If you paint before fitting you will remove some during fitting.
The plastic covers it between the fuel tank and sub frame, I still painted this. After the fuel tank it is difficult to reach but it still can be sprayed.Like wise in the engine bay but the bulkhead is impossible unless you wish to remove the engine!!!!!!

Kenny