Nice simple C5 2.0. Hdi cambelt change video

[Peter.N.]

Looked very straightforward to me, admittedly he did have the engine out. Don't know if the access is the same on the C5.

Peter

[EJAP]

Very good as I'm about to embark on this journey. However reading my Citroen manual it does say to move the belt tighter pointer past the notch initially, loosen, then centre as this guy says. It suggests this to properly bed in the belt teeth.

[Peter.N.]

The previous info I had on the belt change made it look quite complicated so I was delighted to find that video. Not going to be as easy in the car of course but I have done a fair few over the years and the video has given me renewed confidence - I have two to do.

Peter

[GiveMeABreak]

A word of warning chaps ^ That is not the same for all 2.0 HDI engines between those dates!

There are different procedures for the DW10BTED4 and the DW10CTED4 engines that were available in these years, and that annoys me that he has not made that distinction, and both have a different procedure.

Donating members can access the DW10BTED4 timing belt procedure from the resources section here:
viewtopic.php?t=62865

I have already put up the procedure for the DW10CTED4 engine specifically, in this post:

viewtopic.php?p=587221#p587221

So although there may be some similar operations, be careful as the devil is in the detail.

[Peter.N.]

Thanks for that Marc. He has done another video for the later engine which is similar but not quite the same. Maybe they are all the same in the Fords but not the PSA,s, I think he only does Fords.

I have the Haynes book with the Mk 1 and 2 C5's, do you know if the facelift ones have the same engine?

Peter

[cancunia]

Looked very straightforward to me, admittedly he did have the engine out. Don't know if the access is the same on the C5.
Peter

Thanks for posting the link to the video, it was really helpful when doing my 2011 Expert 2.0HDi (DW10UTED4). There are a couple of minor differences for example mine had one less bolt holding the top cover on. I used the video as a guide & also followed the official instructions regards over tensioning the belt and turning the engine 4 times before re-tensioning. The crankshaft bolt was very tight due to threadlock, there's an official PSA caution against using an impact wrench in case the bolt twists and shears. The bolt was also very tight when doing up for the initial 4 turns of the crank, as there was another bolt supplied with the cambelt kit, I cut 2 slots along the old bolt threads with a dremel to clean the old threadlock.

This link also cautions against an impact wrench..
http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-to-r ... i-2011-14/

[Peter.N.]

I've just changed the auxiliary belt on mine, which I managed without removing the wheel arch liner, if I did have to remove it I probably would have replaced the cam belt as well, I have a kit here waiting to be fitted. Both cars were off the road and we needed at least one so the cam belt will have to wait until I have the other one is going.

Peter

[willywodda]

Hi Guys, can anyone tell me the diameter of the pins for locking the crankshaft and the aux belt tensioner, I have pin for the camshaft . I have lost the crank one but can make one if I know the size. the aux tensioner is pretty awkward to lock back so correct pin size for this would be very helpfull for keeping all my fingers! 2008 C5 2.0 HDI 136 auto
thanks, Bill

[cancunia]

It's been a while since I did mine, but I'm fairly certain that it's not a pin for the crankshaft on this engine, instead it's a locking tool that meshes with the teeth on the flywheel. So far as the aux belt goes, I think I jammed the t-bar with a socket somewhere to take the belt tension off as I couldn't get the tensioner far enough to get a locking pin in.

[willywodda]

thanks for reply! yes the aux belt tensioner is a killer, took two of us to compress and lock it back, try slipping a new belt on in the dark, in the rain ? nightmare ! The crank can be locked with a pin up behind the starter, I made one up with a bit of old bar about same thickness of a bonnet stay rod. I had the proper locking pins but lost them in the move when I retired. I see there is also the tooth locking tool, I never had one of those , job done now though and all is well, still have ten fingers too, result!

[cancunia]

Ah, yes you've reminded me about the crankshaft pin! It was quite a while ago, but now you've mentioned it, I remember that I took the starter motor out to see the pin hole and make sure the pin was home, then used a locking tool that I'd made for the starter ring.

[darbuck]

Hi Lads and ladies,

I may have messed up my timing somehow I think. I have 138 bhp c5 x7. I locked the cam with pin but couldn't find a notch on the flywheel it doesn't appear to have it. the Woodruff was pointed straight up. I can't get her to start. She cranks and sounds fine but just won't start. She has thrown P0341 but this could be because of excessive crank and no start. I did crack the nuts on the injectors no fuel. Question is will cam sensor fault above stop fuel flow. I did the fuel filter around the same time I was doing the timing belt and a few other bits. Pulling my hair out at this stage.

[RichardW]

You need to look in the live data when cranking and see if the ecu can see the engine rotating, if you have cam / crank synch, and if you have fuel pressure. Which of these is missing will tell you where to look.

[darbuck]

Ok thanks Richard I will have a look this evening and get back to you.

[KennyW]

Darren,

I think your timing is out hence camshaft fault code.
The fly wheel will have a hole to set crankshaft but camshaft can be 180 degrees out.

Cam turns twice to one turn of crankshaft

Suggest re check timing settings

If timing was just out it would start but run rough

I don’t know where the starter motor is positioned but if same as my 163 hp , remove starter motor to help access for flywheel timing hole.

I think other members with better knowledge of the 138 bop will be able confirm or correct my suggestion

You will get there
Kenny