Just checked the LHM level in the reservoir and have noticed lots of tiny bubbles in there. This is obviously a little concerning, especially as the suspension seems to have lost some of it's handling prowess.
Where can it be getting in? Is this one like finding a needle in a hay stack, or are there only certain places it can be?
I do hope it's the latter!![:(]
Bubbles in LHM reservoir
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oilyspanner
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No -
Because the fast ticking means an internal pressure loss. Air present here does not by itself cause pressure loss.
But it does upset suspension - as the air is an unwanted spring element on the LHM side - which can not be controlled.
Have you tried timing the ticking interval with suspension set to lowest ?
In this setting the HC's are set to constantly release the hydraulic pressure from the suspension cylinders - hence only leaks from the HC's themselves causes any internal leaks - which would be very small even from a faulty HC.
If you then get back to good long ticking intervals - you then KNOW the suspension is causing internal leaks.
Because the fast ticking means an internal pressure loss. Air present here does not by itself cause pressure loss.
But it does upset suspension - as the air is an unwanted spring element on the LHM side - which can not be controlled.
Have you tried timing the ticking interval with suspension set to lowest ?
In this setting the HC's are set to constantly release the hydraulic pressure from the suspension cylinders - hence only leaks from the HC's themselves causes any internal leaks - which would be very small even from a faulty HC.
If you then get back to good long ticking intervals - you then KNOW the suspension is causing internal leaks.
Agree Phil [:)]
The PR should emit a distinct click - with a short time (1-3 seconds) rattle snake rattling before the tick - then silence - untill next cycle commences.
If you're absolutely sure the car had settled on it's rubber rests in low suspension setting - then there are no leaks from the suspension possible causing fast ticker.
You should of course ensure the pressure release valve is locked - i.e. the 12mm bolt head is slightly tensioned - never torque it.
There is one possible leaky fellow remaining : the brake doseur (master or pedal) valve. This can be tested - while still having the suspension on lowest - by judging the flow from the doseur return hoses.
This would be the small dia hose with a Tee junction right before the reservoir stud.
Fast flow from this hose indicates a leaking doseur valve - sometimes simply caused by wrong brake pedal clearance.
Slow to fast dribbling from this hose is acceptable.
The PR valve seating trick :
Under the sphere mount (release system pressure and remove acc sphere) - on this face of the PR - you find a small bolt and bracket located off center.
Under the small bracket you have a ball bearing valve - which is prone to leak by dirt or ball seat out of square.
Catch/remove the ball - if it sticks try a magnet.
Clean the ball seat - then stick the ball in place using a tiny dap of grease.
Give the ball one sharp blow using a soft-metal drift (brass).
If you use the hammer directly - or a hard steel drift - on the ball - you're a LOOSER - as the ball instantly get's out of round shape [:(]
Under NO circumstances try to disturb the center located piston valve.
The pressure release valve 12mm bolt has a similar ball bearing valve under. Simply unscrew this bolt and catch the ball (careful - it has a habit of happily disappearing down your driveway).
The procedure re-seating this ball bearing is exactly the same as above - but access is not exactly easy with PR in-situ.
It's well worth checking if any of the ball bearings have stains on surface - before trying a re-seat. This means new ball bearings - from your nearest bike shop.
The PR should emit a distinct click - with a short time (1-3 seconds) rattle snake rattling before the tick - then silence - untill next cycle commences.
If you're absolutely sure the car had settled on it's rubber rests in low suspension setting - then there are no leaks from the suspension possible causing fast ticker.
You should of course ensure the pressure release valve is locked - i.e. the 12mm bolt head is slightly tensioned - never torque it.
There is one possible leaky fellow remaining : the brake doseur (master or pedal) valve. This can be tested - while still having the suspension on lowest - by judging the flow from the doseur return hoses.
This would be the small dia hose with a Tee junction right before the reservoir stud.
Fast flow from this hose indicates a leaking doseur valve - sometimes simply caused by wrong brake pedal clearance.
Slow to fast dribbling from this hose is acceptable.
The PR valve seating trick :
Under the sphere mount (release system pressure and remove acc sphere) - on this face of the PR - you find a small bolt and bracket located off center.
Under the small bracket you have a ball bearing valve - which is prone to leak by dirt or ball seat out of square.
Catch/remove the ball - if it sticks try a magnet.
Clean the ball seat - then stick the ball in place using a tiny dap of grease.
Give the ball one sharp blow using a soft-metal drift (brass).
If you use the hammer directly - or a hard steel drift - on the ball - you're a LOOSER - as the ball instantly get's out of round shape [:(]
Under NO circumstances try to disturb the center located piston valve.
The pressure release valve 12mm bolt has a similar ball bearing valve under. Simply unscrew this bolt and catch the ball (careful - it has a habit of happily disappearing down your driveway).
The procedure re-seating this ball bearing is exactly the same as above - but access is not exactly easy with PR in-situ.
It's well worth checking if any of the ball bearings have stains on surface - before trying a re-seat. This means new ball bearings - from your nearest bike shop.
Hi Anders,
sorry it has taken me so long to reply, I've been busy so haven't had chance to play BX for a few days.[:p]
Just checked the return pipe from the brake doseur and it is definitely leaking more than it should. A big drip every second no less!!
I'm glad I've isolated the culprit, but I'm a little peeved at the cost of a replacement. Another 110 pounds by the looks of it!!![:(]
And to cap it all I can't find my bloody haynes manual anywhere...Is this a pig to replace, and can it be rebuilt? I really don't want to have to shell $$$ out again.[xx(]
sorry it has taken me so long to reply, I've been busy so haven't had chance to play BX for a few days.[:p]
Just checked the return pipe from the brake doseur and it is definitely leaking more than it should. A big drip every second no less!!
I'm glad I've isolated the culprit, but I'm a little peeved at the cost of a replacement. Another 110 pounds by the looks of it!!![:(]
And to cap it all I can't find my bloody haynes manual anywhere...Is this a pig to replace, and can it be rebuilt? I really don't want to have to shell $$$ out again.[xx(]
Yes the PR is definately possible to overhaul by simple means.
First you must remove the acc sphere while PR is located on engine.
Referring to the scheamtic below :
At right you have a VERY heavy spring located by the end cup in turn fixed by a circlip.
The endcup must be pressed in a bit to release the wire circlip.
This is best done by clampint the PR body in a vice - with large opening jaws. Clamp a large not together with the PR at the endcup - then you can fiddle out the circlip.
The return hose stud/cup also contains a heavy spring - but a bit easier to handle. At both springs you'll find a couple of adjustment shims - note how they fit - as they decide the PR cut-in/cut-out calibration pressures.
There is no need to replace parts - other than obvious destroyed bits.
The whole idea is the cleaning of interior & bits - and reseating the 2 ball bearing valves.
On reassembly - every bit & the interior is greased well with clean LHM.
Here you have a schematic on the PR :
http://citroeny.cz/servis/xmser/akumula ... ventil.gif
First you must remove the acc sphere while PR is located on engine.
Referring to the scheamtic below :
At right you have a VERY heavy spring located by the end cup in turn fixed by a circlip.
The endcup must be pressed in a bit to release the wire circlip.
This is best done by clampint the PR body in a vice - with large opening jaws. Clamp a large not together with the PR at the endcup - then you can fiddle out the circlip.
The return hose stud/cup also contains a heavy spring - but a bit easier to handle. At both springs you'll find a couple of adjustment shims - note how they fit - as they decide the PR cut-in/cut-out calibration pressures.
There is no need to replace parts - other than obvious destroyed bits.
The whole idea is the cleaning of interior & bits - and reseating the 2 ball bearing valves.
On reassembly - every bit & the interior is greased well with clean LHM.
Here you have a schematic on the PR :
http://citroeny.cz/servis/xmser/akumula ... ventil.gif