There are no relays you that you can access. The supply is managed by the supplies management (where Fuse 10 is) and the control and command functions are managed by the Air Conditioning ECU and the BSI.
Here's how you get to the Blower Motor Control Unit:
You'll need to remove the glovebox trim first:
Remove the clips (1) using trim removal tools.
Disengage the trim (2) under the dashboard .
Detach the lamp (3) ( as "b") using trim tools.
Disconnect the connector ( as "a").
Remove:
The lamp (3)
The trim (2) under the fascia
Unclip:
The dashboard side trim (4) ( as "c")
The front pillar trim (5) (Upper) ( as "d")
Remove:
The dashboard side trim (3)
The front pillar trim (5) (Upper)
Detach: The pins (6) (Following the arrows).
Remove: The pins (6).
Open the glovebox (7).
Unclip strut (8) ( as "e") using trim tools.
Detach and remove the glove box lid (7).
So I've just removed the resistor, only to find it's been replaced by a BEHR unit from 17/09/2018 ! so a little more than a year ago..... Hmmmm not good.
There are lots of units on the market - and I suspect some are fakes - an original from PSA costs £146.26 - but on the web there are ones claiming to be original from £20-30, so hard to tell really. But these do seem to fail in most models at some point.
Do you keep the climate system on AUTO as a matter of interest. Doing so, even on warmer temperature settings will remove the moisture from the system. But during the summer with lower A/C temperatures, and on the homeward stretch of a journey, I tend to raise the temperature up to allow the cooling ducts and internals to warm up slowly. That way, when I switch the car off, it reduces the condensation that can accumulate on cold plastic inside the heating system ducting as the car interior temperature heats up in the sun.
Good point Marc, thsnk you for your thorough explanations, and yes i do keep it on "Auto" but thought i should point out for othet UK members, on my UK (RHD) 2014 model, he blower motor and control unit is actually on the drivers side up underneath the pedals, not behind the glove box. Having removed the resistor and finding it to be only a year old, i proceeded to look at the manufacturing sticker on the motor itself, this confirmed a build date of May 2014, with the resistor removed you can then put your fingers easily through the space and spin the motor blades freely by hand, (with power plug disconnected of course ).mine felt a little tight, almost slightly stuck on the bearings as you pointed out, i squirted some WD40 penetrating fluid up onto the spindle, left it for about 10 mins, then spun it back and forth by hand, much easier to move now, so decided to plug it back in and connect the resistor ( you do not need to refit the resistor at this stage of testing, just plug it in ) ......turned on the power and Hey Presto ! fully working fan ..... It appears that the shaft and bearing was indeed a little dry with thevmoisture build up over a year or so, it is now running at all speeds and fires up immediately and as it should, will use for next day as is with all panels / shelf out etc just to make sure, but thanks to your invaluable replies and info we appear to be good to go ! ..... thanks again Marc, the forum is lucky to have someone who actually goes the extra mile to help, all the best to you.
No problem , hopefully our little chat and explanations will help others.
Apologies for the grammer / typo errors, I was typing on the go from my phone and my fingers can't keep up with my thoughts or the key size on my phone keyboard !
And guess what. I took my car out this week after about two weeks of non-use and the fan didn't work. I'll hopefully do the bridging trick tomorrow while the weather is still good enough.
As I get older I think a lot about the hereafter - I go into a room and then wonder what I'm here after.
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
It's actually very accessible once the resistor is removed, you can actually see and spin the plastic blades of the motor pretty easily, i just put the plastic spray straw on the can and aimed towards the centre of the motor and spindle, then let gravity and luck do the rest .... BUT .... mine is a DS5, I am not familiar of the location on a C5 X7, nor if the motor is in the same position and accessibility? but if it is you will not find it that hard, other than positioning yourself upside down and half in, half out, of the drivers footwell ! .... good luck.
DSlover wrote: ↑29 Oct 2019, 22:56BUT .... mine is a DS5, I am not familiar of the location on a C5 X7, nor if the motor is in the same position and accessibility?
Exactly.
DSlover wrote: ↑29 Oct 2019, 22:56... but if it is you will not find it that hard, other than positioning yourself upside down and half in, half out, of the drivers footwell !
Well, there's the first difference. The control module is accessed from the (UK) passenger footwell in the X7. I'm planning on taking the module out this morning so I'll have a look then.
Maybe...
As I get older I think a lot about the hereafter - I go into a room and then wonder what I'm here after.
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
It took longer than I had planned as I found that the engine bay fuse had blown. It's 40A but the highest rated ruse of that type I have in stock is 30A and I fitted that with some trepidation. Fortunately it hasn't yet blown and will stay there until such time as I find some 40A fuses. This is a very high rating for such a relatively small form factor in my opinion and I really think that they should have moved to maxi-fuses.
This blown fuse adds further credence to the Sticky Shaft Syndrome (oo-err, missus) theory I think. Incidentally I tried to look inside the heater box with the control unit removed and there was absolutely no chance! I couldn't even push my phone up high enough behind the glovebox to take a photo.
I shall persist with the bridging procedure until such time as I take the dashboard out. Which means probably never!
As I get older I think a lot about the hereafter - I go into a room and then wonder what I'm here after.
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
Hmmmm? not a good scenario unfortunateĺy, don't think i would want to tackle dashboard removal either, your motor is obviously different, because the resistor on the DS5 is attached to the motor itself, by removing the resistor this clearly left the aperture where the resistor sat open, you then could put your fingers through and spin, if you've removed the resistor on yours I'm guessing it is not attached to the motor blower chamber itself ?
The Maxi fuses tend to be for the safety systems (power steering, ESP, Cooling Fans, Active suspension (V6) and for providing power to some of the other supply units (BSI, BFH5, BFH12)).