Changing C5 tourer (2010) rear brake pads

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Re: Changing C5 tourer (2010) rear brake pads

Post by GiveMeABreak »

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Re: Changing C5 tourer (2010) rear brake pads

Post by Sheyhoon »

Most certainly deserve it & more. Thanks.
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Re: Changing C5 tourer (2010) rear brake pads

Post by osx »

How many turns dies it take to get the piston back? Turned it at least 10 times but doesn't seem to move at all.
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Re: Changing C5 tourer (2010) rear brake pads

Post by GiveMeABreak »

Rears only need winding in and are you turning it clockwise? How many times depends on how worn down the pads were, but regardless you should be able to tell if it is winding back.
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Re: Changing C5 tourer (2010) rear brake pads

Post by osx »

Clockwise and inner pad completely worn. Would expect at least some movement.
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Re: Changing C5 tourer (2010) rear brake pads

Post by GiveMeABreak »

May sound a daft question, but is the adaptor the correct one for the X7? They do multiple style adaptors for the tools. Also, check the brake fluid reservoir - loosening the cap may help whilst winding back in case there is too much pressure.
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Re: Changing C5 tourer (2010) rear brake pads

Post by osx »

I've loosened the brake fluid cap and instead of pliers used this :-D

Image

Perfect fit.

Where should I look in diagbox for the electronic handbrake options?
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Re: Changing C5 tourer (2010) rear brake pads

Post by GiveMeABreak »

Either in the general repair menu, or do a global diagnostic, then on completion, check the list of ECUs for the EPB. Selct, then it should be three as an option I’m away from my desk, so can’t check at present.
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Re: Changing C5 tourer (2010) rear brake pads

Post by Paul-R »

Love the home-made tool. Have you considered adding it to the DIY with function over finesse!! thread? search.php?st=7&sk=t&sd=d&sr=topics&sid ... s&start=50
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Re: Changing C5 tourer (2010) rear brake pads

Post by Paul-R »

Marc

The titles of the two guides you've posted both say Saloon. Is there any difference for the Tourers?
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Re: Changing C5 tourer (2010) rear brake pads

Post by GiveMeABreak »

Actually I already put one up for the Teves assembly for the Tourer way back, but I never had time to check for any differences - but having done so now, there is no difference I can see, but at least they are both there now.

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Re: Changing C5 tourer (2010) rear brake pads

Post by osx »

Paul-R wrote: 19 Sep 2021, 13:50 Love the home-made tool. Have you considered adding it to the DIY with function over finesse!! thread? search.php?st=7&sk=t&sd=d&sr=topics&sid ... s&start=50
I have subsequently moulded it in a socket so I can use a spanner and trimmed the pins to 3-4mm. Works like a dream.

Found the section in diagbox

Electric secondary brake --> Repair --> Pack repair --> Replacement parts --> Electric secondary brake Replacement

and under that final menu you will find
Removal, calibration etc. Couldn't be hidden any deeper :-D
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Re: Changing C5 tourer (2010) rear brake pads

Post by Sheyhoon »

I thought I replied but apparently not.

I completed all jobs prior MOT last year and passed with flying colors. Thanks everyone for your suggestions and tips. Changed both lambda sensors with adapters, oil filter with wrench, air & cabin filters, had to get a mobile tyre fitter to install new tyres, topped up all liquids, fitted new window regulator (front passenger side), new wiper blades, etc.

Here are the steps I followed in order to change both F&R brake pads;

1. Acquired all tools & items necessary as I didn't want to be dilly-dallying especially with the little one around. It's a one-time thing for me.

Got the following; tough protective gloves, rag, garage tools (halfords full kit), 2-tonne jack, brake pads F&R (only front has sensors), brake cleaner, wire-brush, brake fluid, piston wind-back tool (front was a push back & back was a wind back with 2 pins.

Started very early to finish everything at once and for all:

Front- Parked C5 on the drive where it was levelled
Turned the wheel i was working on towards me to access the two bolts holding the calipers, ignitions off
Chocked other tyres I wasn't working on
Raised the C5 to the higher using the buttons underneath the parking break
Jack was placed correctly underneath the chassis however, not jacked up as yet
Unwound the bolts 🔩 to exert less force after jacking the tyre off the floor
Jacked it up and removed the tyre
Unplugged the pin
Easy access to two bolts holding the caliper
With a bit of a jiggle and wiggle, caliper came out removed worn pads and, prepared new ones with paste as recommended,
Cleaned the caliper with wire-brush & brake cleaner,
Got the piston tool set to push back but opened the reservoir a little bit. I started to wind back observing the levels each turn until it was set all the way to the back with reservoir passing full marker
Cleaned a little bit again, installed already prepared pads, sensors, etc, placed caliper back into position and cleaned the bolts and installed both to tightly secure to its holder. Note the caliper is heavy and had to hold with one hand whilst winding.

Reservoir was full now, pushed on the brake pedal a few times and it levelled down. Repeated same process to install the other pad and moving the chocks and jack around.

Rear - moving the chocks and jack around
Jacked up as normal, bolts were already loosened for ease, tyre removed, started the engine and released the breaks, and ✋ ✋ ✋, I pulled the battery. Yes, you heard right, I pulled the battery, engine was still running, and turned off the engine and heard a release of pressure sound however, noticed the pads were released.

Pulled out the rubber covers
Removed the bolts
Caliper out easily
Pads were totally worn
Prepared new pads (no sensors), paste
Cleaned calipers
Piston tool out and started winding back while all the way, observing reservoir (no spills)
Placed caliper back and bolted them back and repeat for the other side.

All pads installed, tyres securely bolted and work area cleaned up and tools packed away, installed battery back, parking break light flashing, pushed back on the brake pedal till it was up and hard, closed the reservoir
and started the engine and it went down quite a bit. Turned engine off. Pushed the pedal again till it was high, started the engine and released the handbrake and everything was back to normal. Did a handbrake reset just to see if something was missed. Turned everything off again. Restarted the engine, set the date, etc, and drove round a bit to test it and it was perfect.

It took me a lot of courage to do the above but it had to be done ✔.

I'm sure I forgot to add a step...pardon me in advance.

Thanks 😊.