Xantia front pads

[froggy]

Hi, Iam about to replace my front pads on my Xantia TD. I have just done the rears including new caliper bolts and good clean-up on the rear trailing arm ( oxide build up). my question is: is it a similar job to change the front pads as changing the rears? cheers Terry .

[Citroenmad]

You'll need to wind back the pistons while pushing them back in. Easily done with a G-clamp and a screw driver. Otherwise its pretty plan sailing.


There are two difference Xantia front brake set-ups, depending on if its a S1 or S2 or what engine etc. Im not a fan of the S1 small brakes, a bit fiddly with the sliding system on them, but they are simple to work on really.

[Old-Guy]

On S1 Xantias (don't know S2) the piston must be correctly aligned with the large cut-out facing forward for the 'pip' on the back of the pad to sit in - this stops the piston rotating which is essential for the self-adjuster to work properly. Read my full write-up here.

[handyman]

G-CLAMP!!!!!!! You must NEVER, EVER put any external pressure on the piston as it will strip the threads on the internal brake adjustment system! All you need to do it wind the piston back in, as its on a thread, it will retract as it winds down the thread on the adjuster. The piston must be wound right back so its level with the caliper body, before you fit the pads and refit the assembly onto the carrier.

Bendix S1 & S2 calipers are all the same in operation, its only the later Bosch system used on 110HDi, V6 and Activas that is different.

If you get stuck, PM me as I've rebuilt lots of these calipers.

Handyman

[froggy]

Is there a tool that would push ( retract) the piston in the caliper? if so what are they called where could you buy one from? thanks again Terry .

[Hell Razor5543]

Froggy, I recently replaced the front pads and discs on Gracie, and just wound in the pistons using an old brake pad (anything that will fit the slots will do). It took time (at least 15 minutes per caliper), but the brakes are still fully functional. Forcing the piston in WILL (as Handyman clearly states) will destroy the auto-adjustor that compensates for pad wear to allow the handbrake to work. Unless you are King Kong you will not be able to exert damaging pressure as you wind the pistons back in. It did take time but I knew that I wouldn't cause any damage, so I thought it was worth the time taken.

This link, although not entirely covering this post, explains why you have to wind the calipers back in;

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... =3&t=41565" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[handyman]

A piece of 6mm wide steel flat, bent to the shape of a one-sided coat hanger will do the job, if you are only working on your own car, These fangled kits with numerous adaptors and other gizmos are strictly for the trade, especially as they are not cheap.

[Citroenmad]

G-CLAMP!!!!!!! You must NEVER, EVER put any external pressure on the piston as it will strip the threads on the internal brake adjustment system! All you need to do it wind the piston back in, as its on a thread, it will retract as it winds down the thread on the adjuster. The piston must be wound right back so its level with the caliper body, before you fit the pads and refit the assembly onto the carrier.

Interesting, im get to fit new pads on a Xantia so have not had the need to wind those back. However on the C5 they do need pressure while turing, or they don't retract. Only quite light pressure, its just a handy tool to do it with. I really should get a wind back tool but all this does is put pressure on while turning the piston.

[handyman]

You do not need to use any external pressure to wind back the pistons, the internal threads provide all the required force. It serves no useful function, far from it you risk damaging the very fine threads on the pad wear adjuster.

I've dismantled enough calipers to see the damage caused by numpties who think they know best, by levering the pads or forcing the pistons. Check out the relevant service pages on Citroen Service.

H

[Citroenmad]

Well, Im yet to do any damage! Ive tried just turning back the front pistons on a C5, they simply just turn and turn and don't go anywhere. You need to push them back while turning.

[froggy]

Which way do I wind the caliper in? anti or clockwise? Iam a bit nervous as I do not want to damage anything, many thanks Terry .

[jgra1]

clockwise Terry

Rich, have you a photo of some cally internals?

be interested to see..

I must admit, I always felt I needed light pressure while turning, on my xant.. as I think Chris was saying..

I tried turning with no pressure at all and nothing happened.. even after like 40 revs. (it was awhile ago mind)

[Citroenmad]

I must admit, I always felt I needed light pressure while turning, on my xant.. as I think Chris was saying..

I tried turning with no pressure at all and nothing happened.. even after like 40 revs. (it was awhile ago mind)

Yes, only light pressure. Its just my slight overkill tool of a G-clamp does the job well, but used lightly ...

[andmcit]

Dear Lord - don't go levering the front caliper pistons back they're not like the rears
or older Cx, Gs etc. I guess that's been established (hopefully) already here with
Richard's comments!!

You need to carefully wind both pistons back clockwise into the caliper whilst
facing to the rim with the 4 notches cut out. I have x2 wind back tools where the
just as expensive but really rubbish Halfords one is a poor relation to the far better
Sykes Pickavant one that I've managed to misplace. Full sets of right and left
handed wind tools with differing adaptors go on ebay for £20:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-CALIPER ... 2a24fc063a" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;



This can't be any worse than the £30 Halfords pony version.

Just a month back fitting a set of front pads on my V6 Xantia showed the very
interesting different take on the other Xants set up, where the tool was so damned
useless I resorted the engaging the jaws of a decent pair of moleys onto one of the
quarters of the toothed caliper face and gently engaged them to wind the caliper in.
I didn't undo the bleed screw as I normally do and there more modest resistance.
I can see using a flat plate like an old used pad would work well.

When you wind the caliper in take care that the gaiter seal is even and folds without
any creases as to tear it when fully compressed home into the caliper housing. The
only other tedious part of the job that is essential to allow the caliper upper to swing
up is careful routing of the handbrake cable end through the eye shoulder once it's
stop end is unhooked from the actuating caliper lever. I find the tiny cable bellows
can put up a fight when feeding the cable out and unclipping the end of this bellows
off the ridge against the outer bowden cable will narrow the diameter a bit.
to allow it to feed through.

DO NOT buy one of these, even if it is the only thing available on a Sunday afternoon:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LASER-BRAKE-C ... 2eb9194807" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Citroenmad]

So you dont think a wind back tool applies any pressure while its winding out?

If it didn't you could simply use a screw driver or similar to turn the piston until its fully in.