List of Jobs to do on Xantia S1 - Advice of order required.
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Oh! and two Harley Davidsons - A 1990 Sportster and a 2003 Fatboy 100th Anniversary (the only vehicle I have owned from new) - x 80
List of Jobs to do on Xantia S1 - Advice of order required.
Having read lots of different posts and stickies, I am looking for a bit of advice please from some of the wise old Sages on the site with reference to the order of work.
I have got to change my front pads at the weekend and the rear height corrector does not appear to be functioning anymore even though I gave it some dispersant, a good waggle and some white grease.
I would also like to do a Hydroflush at some point in the relatively near future but perhaps not as near as Saturday!
I took some photos last weekend of my strut tops but I'll post that separately to keep the posts relatively specific.
Questions are:-
1) In what order should I do the work? Height corrector(s) then flush or flush then Height Correctors?
2) Also, I was looking through the Polish Height Corrector guide which I cannot understand but the pictures are good! Should I measure a particular point on the rear and front as a reference prior to removing the HC rods?
3) There are some great posts on Hydroflush but would anyone REALLY recommend LHM and parafin mix or is it better to dig deep?
4) Still internal temperature probs. Worked for a while then kaput! Does anyone have a Lexia cable to fit a laptop with Lexia on? Think it is 9 pin D-sub from memory on the laptop. (Job for some other time!)
5) Wondering about having the underside of the car steam-cleaned tomorrow if this local firm is still in business. Any do's and don'ts in terms of where they shouldn't be directing high pressure steam?
Anyway, here are some piccies of height correctors? Hopefully!
Oh yes! And the mysterious hole of oblivion!
This is located under the nearside rear arch facing forward!
Looks like a grommet is missing? Any ideas on this? Bit of duct tape perhaps?
Filled up the LHM last week wondering if there was a leak and then realising the pads need doing!
I have got to change my front pads at the weekend and the rear height corrector does not appear to be functioning anymore even though I gave it some dispersant, a good waggle and some white grease.
I would also like to do a Hydroflush at some point in the relatively near future but perhaps not as near as Saturday!
I took some photos last weekend of my strut tops but I'll post that separately to keep the posts relatively specific.
Questions are:-
1) In what order should I do the work? Height corrector(s) then flush or flush then Height Correctors?
2) Also, I was looking through the Polish Height Corrector guide which I cannot understand but the pictures are good! Should I measure a particular point on the rear and front as a reference prior to removing the HC rods?
3) There are some great posts on Hydroflush but would anyone REALLY recommend LHM and parafin mix or is it better to dig deep?
4) Still internal temperature probs. Worked for a while then kaput! Does anyone have a Lexia cable to fit a laptop with Lexia on? Think it is 9 pin D-sub from memory on the laptop. (Job for some other time!)
5) Wondering about having the underside of the car steam-cleaned tomorrow if this local firm is still in business. Any do's and don'ts in terms of where they shouldn't be directing high pressure steam?
Anyway, here are some piccies of height correctors? Hopefully!
Oh yes! And the mysterious hole of oblivion!
This is located under the nearside rear arch facing forward!
Looks like a grommet is missing? Any ideas on this? Bit of duct tape perhaps?
Filled up the LHM last week wondering if there was a leak and then realising the pads need doing!
- CitroJim
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That height corrector looks a bit rusty Rog. It's got be be a bit on the stiff side so a good clean-up would be very beneficial to it. Ideally it needs to be removed from the car to be attended to properly and I'd do this before Hydra flushing.
Alternative to removing the height corrector complete, you an disconnect the white link and the manual lever rod and then after undoing the two 11mm bolts holding the hydraulic valve inn place, tease it out so that the mechanism is nicely exposed for cleaning, exercising and lubricating.
A rough guide to height that works well enough is this: Three fingers between wheelarch and tyre at the front and one finger at the rear equates to more or less correct ride height.
Personally, I'd not use LHM and paraffin. Dig for the pukka stuff!
That grommet on the rear wheelarch is a common problem. It gives access to the inner sills and most perish after a time. Pump some waxoyl in there, patch up the grommet with several layers of duck tape and liberally underseal over it!
I'd not have underside steam cleaned. Oil and grease underneath is beneficial to keeping corrosion at bay. Steam cleaning risks lifting underseal and allowing moisture in and it could lead to more corrosion in the long term.
Alternative to removing the height corrector complete, you an disconnect the white link and the manual lever rod and then after undoing the two 11mm bolts holding the hydraulic valve inn place, tease it out so that the mechanism is nicely exposed for cleaning, exercising and lubricating.
A rough guide to height that works well enough is this: Three fingers between wheelarch and tyre at the front and one finger at the rear equates to more or less correct ride height.
Personally, I'd not use LHM and paraffin. Dig for the pukka stuff!
That grommet on the rear wheelarch is a common problem. It gives access to the inner sills and most perish after a time. Pump some waxoyl in there, patch up the grommet with several layers of duck tape and liberally underseal over it!
I'd not have underside steam cleaned. Oil and grease underneath is beneficial to keeping corrosion at bay. Steam cleaning risks lifting underseal and allowing moisture in and it could lead to more corrosion in the long term.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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1996 Citroen Xantia 1.9TD SX S1 - N707 MGP (Currrently laid up)
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1997 Citroen ZX SX TD - P788 AJL
1959 Landrover Defender S2 - Two owners from new
1968 Triumph Vitesse Convertible 2.0
1980 Ford Escort RS2000 Customer - 2nd Owner
1988 Saab 900 T16S - A 1980's exercise in understated Hooliganism...
Oh! and two Harley Davidsons - A 1990 Sportster and a 2003 Fatboy 100th Anniversary (the only vehicle I have owned from new) - x 80
Ey up Jim!
Happy New Year! Hope you're keeping well.
I think I am going to strip it off completely. Would to do front at the same time but it look s abugger to get at.
Doubt it is as bad as a BX to work on. I still have nightmares about my old BX's.
3 finger rule sounds interesting - suppose that just depends on how fat your fingers are! Mine are rather plump after Xmas.
Is that guide irrespective of the size of tyres used?
Thanks for the advice on the steam cleaning. It's just horrendously mucky under there and I felt it would benefit but I think you're dead right so say don't do it. Saves £15 too which is better spent on the Hydrarincauge
Happy New Year! Hope you're keeping well.
I think I am going to strip it off completely. Would to do front at the same time but it look s abugger to get at.
Doubt it is as bad as a BX to work on. I still have nightmares about my old BX's.
3 finger rule sounds interesting - suppose that just depends on how fat your fingers are! Mine are rather plump after Xmas.
Is that guide irrespective of the size of tyres used?
Thanks for the advice on the steam cleaning. It's just horrendously mucky under there and I felt it would benefit but I think you're dead right so say don't do it. Saves £15 too which is better spent on the Hydrarincauge
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1995 Citroen Xantia 1.9TD S1 - M728 GDL VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]
1996 Citroen Xantia 1.9TD SX S1 - N707 MGP (Currrently laid up)
2000 Citroen Xantia 2.0 HDi S2 - X435 JGJ VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff] (Clutch died Dec 2017 - Resurrected Easter Sunday 2021)
1997 Citroen ZX SX TD - P788 AJL
1959 Landrover Defender S2 - Two owners from new
1968 Triumph Vitesse Convertible 2.0
1980 Ford Escort RS2000 Customer - 2nd Owner
1988 Saab 900 T16S - A 1980's exercise in understated Hooliganism...
Oh! and two Harley Davidsons - A 1990 Sportster and a 2003 Fatboy 100th Anniversary (the only vehicle I have owned from new) - x 80
Grommet or Plug on Body as Citroen Service site states appears to be Part Number 96 130 325 and still appears to be available.
I think some water may have got in their when I jet-washed under the wheel arches after the Austria trip. Is there any grommet at a lower level that I could remove and check out that you know of off the top of your head?
I think some water may have got in their when I jet-washed under the wheel arches after the Austria trip. Is there any grommet at a lower level that I could remove and check out that you know of off the top of your head?
- CitroJim
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Thanks Rog and to you! Just getting over a rotten cold
Yes, It's a rule of thumb that seem to work for all tyre sizes. If you have plump fingers then say two at the front and a pinkie at the rear
I'm basing the finger sizes on my admittedly rather slender, girly fingers
RogDodge wrote: Is that guide irrespective of the size of tyres used?
Yes, It's a rule of thumb that seem to work for all tyre sizes. If you have plump fingers then say two at the front and a pinkie at the rear
I'm basing the finger sizes on my admittedly rather slender, girly fingers
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Should not be a problem as the sills themselves have drain holes in the form of slots near to the jacking points. It's worth checking those are clear.RogDodge wrote: I think some water may have got in their when I jet-washed under the wheel arches after the Austria trip. Is there any grommet at a lower level that I could remove and check out that you know of off the top of your head?
Good to know the grommets are still available. I need some for my fleet
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Could a mod re-size the images on this thread please ? It is annoying to have to scroll across the page to read it
Now using '00 Xantia LX HDI, pov spec
My past Citroens :-
'00 Xantia SX HDI, now dead due to accident
'99 Xantia HDI 110 Exclusive, RIP
'97 Xantia TD SX
'96 Xantia TD LX
'96 ZX TD
'89 BX TD
'88 AX GT
'79 CX2400 Pallas (scrapped )
& a couple of Peugeots !
My past Citroens :-
'00 Xantia SX HDI, now dead due to accident
'99 Xantia HDI 110 Exclusive, RIP
'97 Xantia TD SX
'96 Xantia TD LX
'96 ZX TD
'89 BX TD
'88 AX GT
'79 CX2400 Pallas (scrapped )
& a couple of Peugeots !
Rog
as long as you dont allter the hight setting clamps which are attatched to each anti roll bar, and they were set corectly before you remove the H/C's and there mechanisum/brackets,
you should not need/require to adjust anything as you dont disturbe those clamps in the process of removeing the H/C's,
and as Jim was sudgesting you do not need to remove the H/C/s to free the linkage turrets off, as you can leave the H/C hanging on its pipes quite safetly,
theH/C's do not usualy give any trouble it is usualy the linkage/turrets that seize up as they dont move much in mormal use,
also the XANT H/C mechanisum is far more complicatted than the BX,
JUST MIND YOU SUPPORT IT PROPERLY AS HYDRAULIC CITROENS CAN AND HAVE KILLED
regards malcolm
as long as you dont allter the hight setting clamps which are attatched to each anti roll bar, and they were set corectly before you remove the H/C's and there mechanisum/brackets,
you should not need/require to adjust anything as you dont disturbe those clamps in the process of removeing the H/C's,
and as Jim was sudgesting you do not need to remove the H/C/s to free the linkage turrets off, as you can leave the H/C hanging on its pipes quite safetly,
theH/C's do not usualy give any trouble it is usualy the linkage/turrets that seize up as they dont move much in mormal use,
also the XANT H/C mechanisum is far more complicatted than the BX,
JUST MIND YOU SUPPORT IT PROPERLY AS HYDRAULIC CITROENS CAN AND HAVE KILLED
regards malcolm
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Here here, I agree....HDI wrote:Could a mod re-size the images on this thread please ? It is annoying to have to scroll across the page to read it
But I think only Rogdodge can do that by adjusting his picture size in
his hosting programe....
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
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...it can be done but takes a little longer - one can save the picture to their own computer and upload to own photobucket that will resize picture.citroenxm wrote:But I think only Rogdodge can do that by adjusting his picture size in
his hosting programe....
Then mod can edit post and include original picture, just hosted from their photobucket.
Simples!
Franklin
Can't reccomend Hydroflush strongly enough. It's transformed my car and it's quite a fun job too! It's even improved my MPG! my front brakes were binding and it!seems to have sorted that out as well as better steering and quicker hydraulics.
With regards to the hole in your wheel arch, I've got one just like it!
With regards to the hole in your wheel arch, I've got one just like it!
Xantia SX 1.9TD Gone to the breakers
Xantia LX 2.0HDI Taxed and MOT'd at last!
Xantia 1.8 16V SX On loan to brother-in-law
Sportrack off road toy
Series One Land Rover
Thundercat race boat
Xantia LX 2.0HDI Taxed and MOT'd at last!
Xantia 1.8 16V SX On loan to brother-in-law
Sportrack off road toy
Series One Land Rover
Thundercat race boat
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1996 Citroen Xantia 1.9TD SX S1 - N707 MGP (Currrently laid up)
2000 Citroen Xantia 2.0 HDi S2 - X435 JGJ VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff] (Clutch died Dec 2017 - Resurrected Easter Sunday 2021)
1997 Citroen ZX SX TD - P788 AJL
1959 Landrover Defender S2 - Two owners from new
1968 Triumph Vitesse Convertible 2.0
1980 Ford Escort RS2000 Customer - 2nd Owner
1988 Saab 900 T16S - A 1980's exercise in understated Hooliganism...
Oh! and two Harley Davidsons - A 1990 Sportster and a 2003 Fatboy 100th Anniversary (the only vehicle I have owned from new) - x 80
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- Donor 2023
- Posts: 1803
- Joined: 22 Nov 2004, 00:21
- Location: Nottingham - UK
- My Cars: 2013 Peugeot 3008 Allure 1.6HDi - FD63 FWA VF3**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]
1995 Citroen Xantia 1.9TD S1 - M728 GDL VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]
1996 Citroen Xantia 1.9TD SX S1 - N707 MGP (Currrently laid up)
2000 Citroen Xantia 2.0 HDi S2 - X435 JGJ VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff] (Clutch died Dec 2017 - Resurrected Easter Sunday 2021)
1997 Citroen ZX SX TD - P788 AJL
1959 Landrover Defender S2 - Two owners from new
1968 Triumph Vitesse Convertible 2.0
1980 Ford Escort RS2000 Customer - 2nd Owner
1988 Saab 900 T16S - A 1980's exercise in understated Hooliganism...
Oh! and two Harley Davidsons - A 1990 Sportster and a 2003 Fatboy 100th Anniversary (the only vehicle I have owned from new) - x 80
I am a rather tentative about starting to mess with a Citroen system that appears to never have leaked! Touch wood! Touch wood! TOUCH WOOD!
I prefer to remove it though and work more thoroughly on a bench.
Will I need to replace the little rubber seals on the ends of the hydraulic pipes? Is it par for the course or can they just be cleaned in clean LHM?
I prefer to remove it though and work more thoroughly on a bench.
Will I need to replace the little rubber seals on the ends of the hydraulic pipes? Is it par for the course or can they just be cleaned in clean LHM?
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2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
They can be used quite easilly, however, remove them and snip off the strands that will be hanging off at the ends.. though seals are reasonably cheap to get new, it depends if your stealer has them stocked.
Paul
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
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1995 Citroen Xantia 1.9TD S1 - M728 GDL VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]
1996 Citroen Xantia 1.9TD SX S1 - N707 MGP (Currrently laid up)
2000 Citroen Xantia 2.0 HDi S2 - X435 JGJ VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff] (Clutch died Dec 2017 - Resurrected Easter Sunday 2021)
1997 Citroen ZX SX TD - P788 AJL
1959 Landrover Defender S2 - Two owners from new
1968 Triumph Vitesse Convertible 2.0
1980 Ford Escort RS2000 Customer - 2nd Owner
1988 Saab 900 T16S - A 1980's exercise in understated Hooliganism...
Oh! and two Harley Davidsons - A 1990 Sportster and a 2003 Fatboy 100th Anniversary (the only vehicle I have owned from new) - x 80
I think a seal replacement is probably for the best.
I don't fancy creating any leaks unnecessarily. I seem to remember that the seals are nigh on impossible to extract unless you use a safety pin and that probably doesn't do them much good.
Anyone have any useful tips on how to remove them easier or without causing mechanical damage to them?
Would rather save the £1 a piece they cost with the current economic climate!
If I do end up buying them, is it the 3.5mm ones I need?
I don't fancy creating any leaks unnecessarily. I seem to remember that the seals are nigh on impossible to extract unless you use a safety pin and that probably doesn't do them much good.
Anyone have any useful tips on how to remove them easier or without causing mechanical damage to them?
Would rather save the £1 a piece they cost with the current economic climate!
If I do end up buying them, is it the 3.5mm ones I need?