List of Jobs to do on Xantia S1 - Advice of order required.

Unread post by **Rhothgar** » 13 Jan 2011, 16:53

Having read lots of different posts and stickies, I am looking for a bit of advice please from some of the wise old Sages on the site with reference to the order of work.

I have got to change my front pads at the weekend and the rear height corrector does not appear to be functioning anymore even though I gave it some dispersant, a good waggle and some white grease.

I would also like to do a Hydroflush at some point in the relatively near future but perhaps not as near as Saturday!

I took some photos last weekend of my strut tops but I'll post that separately to keep the posts relatively specific.

Questions are:-

1) In what order should I do the work? Height corrector(s) then flush or flush then Height Correctors?

2) Also, I was looking through the Polish Height Corrector guide which I cannot understand but the pictures are good!

Should I measure a particular point on the rear and front as a reference prior to removing the HC rods?

3) There are some great posts on Hydroflush but would anyone REALLY recommend LHM and parafin mix or is it better to dig deep?

4) Still internal temperature probs. Worked for a while then kaput! Does anyone have a Lexia cable to fit a laptop with Lexia on? Think it is 9 pin D-sub from memory on the laptop. (Job for some other time!)

5) Wondering about having the underside of the car steam-cleaned tomorrow if this local firm is still in business. Any do's and don'ts in terms of where they shouldn't be directing high pressure steam?

Anyway, here are some piccies of height correctors? Hopefully!

Oh yes! And the mysterious hole of oblivion!

This is located under the nearside rear arch facing forward!

Looks like a grommet is missing? Any ideas on this? Bit of duct tape perhaps?

Filled up the LHM last week wondering if there was a leak and then realising the pads need doing!

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 13 Jan 2011, 17:03

That height corrector looks a bit rusty Rog. It's got be be a bit on the stiff side so a good clean-up would be very beneficial to it. Ideally it needs to be removed from the car to be attended to properly and I'd do this before Hydra flushing.

Alternative to removing the height corrector complete, you an disconnect the white link and the manual lever rod and then after undoing the two 11mm bolts holding the hydraulic valve inn place, tease it out so that the mechanism is nicely exposed for cleaning, exercising and lubricating.

A rough guide to height that works well enough is this: Three fingers between wheelarch and tyre at the front and one finger at the rear equates to more or less correct ride height.

Personally, I'd not use LHM and paraffin. Dig for the pukka stuff!

That grommet on the rear wheelarch is a common problem. It gives access to the inner sills and most perish after a time. Pump some waxoyl in there, patch up the grommet with several layers of duck tape and liberally underseal over it!

I'd not have underside steam cleaned. Oil and grease underneath is beneficial to keeping corrosion at bay. Steam cleaning risks lifting underseal and allowing moisture in and it could lead to more corrosion in the long term.

Unread post by **Rhothgar** » 13 Jan 2011, 17:16

Ey up Jim!

Happy New Year! Hope you're keeping well.

I think I am going to strip it off completely. Would to do front at the same time but it look s abugger to get at.

Doubt it is as bad as a BX to work on. I still have nightmares about my old BX's.

3 finger rule sounds interesting - suppose that just depends on how fat your fingers are!

Mine are rather plump after Xmas.

Is that guide irrespective of the size of tyres used?

Thanks for the advice on the steam cleaning. It's just horrendously mucky under there and I felt it would benefit but I think you're dead right so say don't do it. Saves £15 too which is better spent on the Hydrarincauge

Unread post by **Rhothgar** » 13 Jan 2011, 17:34

Grommet or Plug on Body as Citroen Service site states appears to be Part Number 96 130 325 and still appears to be available.

I think some water may have got in their when I jet-washed under the wheel arches after the Austria trip. Is there any grommet at a lower level that I could remove and check out that you know of off the top of your head?

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 13 Jan 2011, 17:36

Thanks Rog and to you! Just getting over a rotten cold

RogDodge wrote: Is that guide irrespective of the size of tyres used?

Yes, It's a rule of thumb that seem to work for all tyre sizes. If you have plump fingers then say two at the front and a pinkie at the rear

I'm basing the finger sizes on my admittedly rather slender, girly fingers

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 13 Jan 2011, 17:38

RogDodge wrote: I think some water may have got in their when I jet-washed under the wheel arches after the Austria trip. Is there any grommet at a lower level that I could remove and check out that you know of off the top of your head?

Should not be a problem as the sills themselves have drain holes in the form of slots near to the jacking points. It's worth checking those are clear.

Good to know the grommets are still available. I need some for my fleet

HDI · Unread post by **HDI** » 13 Jan 2011, 18:05

Could a mod re-size the images on this thread please ? It is annoying to have to scroll across the page to read it

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 13 Jan 2011, 18:42

Rog
as long as you dont allter the hight setting clamps which are attatched to each anti roll bar, and they were set corectly before you remove the H/C's and there mechanisum/brackets,

you should not need/require to adjust anything as you dont disturbe those clamps in the process of removeing the H/C's,

and as Jim was sudgesting you do not need to remove the H/C/s to free the linkage turrets off, as you can leave the H/C hanging on its pipes quite safetly,

theH/C's do not usualy give any trouble it is usualy the linkage/turrets that seize up as they dont move much in mormal use,

also the XANT H/C mechanisum is far more complicatted than the BX,

JUST MIND YOU SUPPORT IT PROPERLY AS HYDRAULIC CITROENS CAN AND HAVE KILLED

regards malcolm

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 13 Jan 2011, 21:16

HDI wrote:Could a mod re-size the images on this thread please ? It is annoying to have to scroll across the page to read it

Here here, I agree....

But I think only Rogdodge can do that by adjusting his picture size in
his hosting programe....

Paul

Citroening · Unread post by **Citroening** » 13 Jan 2011, 21:36

citroenxm wrote:But I think only Rogdodge can do that by adjusting his picture size in
his hosting programe....

...it can be done but takes a little longer - one can save the picture to their own computer and upload to own photobucket that will resize picture.
Then mod can edit post and include original picture, just hosted from their photobucket.
Simples!

Stepto1 · Unread post by **Stepto1** » 13 Jan 2011, 22:44

Can't reccomend Hydroflush strongly enough. It's transformed my car and it's quite a fun job too! It's even improved my MPG! my front brakes were binding and it!seems to have sorted that out as well as better steering and quicker hydraulics.

With regards to the hole in your wheel arch, I've got one just like it!

Unread post by **Rhothgar** » 14 Jan 2011, 09:10

HDI wrote:Could a mod re-size the images on this thread please ? It is annoying to have to scroll across the page to read it

It was irritating. In fact, I was even irritated by having to scroll across and I uploaded them!!!

Now resized! Mental note made to sit on the naughty step! Sorry!

Unread post by **Rhothgar** » 14 Jan 2011, 09:26

I am a rather tentative about starting to mess with a Citroen system that appears to never have leaked! Touch wood! Touch wood! TOUCH WOOD!

I prefer to remove it though and work more thoroughly on a bench.

Will I need to replace the little rubber seals on the ends of the hydraulic pipes? Is it par for the course or can they just be cleaned in clean LHM?

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 14 Jan 2011, 10:06

They can be used quite easilly, however, remove them and snip off the strands that will be hanging off at the ends.. though seals are reasonably cheap to get new, it depends if your stealer has them stocked.

Paul

Unread post by **Rhothgar** » 14 Jan 2011, 14:38

I think a seal replacement is probably for the best.

I don't fancy creating any leaks unnecessarily. I seem to remember that the seals are nigh on impossible to extract unless you use a safety pin and that probably doesn't do them much good.

Anyone have any useful tips on how to remove them easier or without causing mechanical damage to them?

Would rather save the £1 a piece they cost with the current economic climate!

If I do end up buying them, is it the 3.5mm ones I need?