I've just upgraded to a 110 BHP Hdi Xantia.9Year 2000) full service records etc Problem is the above light's are flashing, but only when the A/C is switched on. Any advice appreciated. (apart from telling me not to use the air conditioning).
Problem 2. The ABS light stays on continually. As the brakes are working O.K I feel that this is not a big problem, again any advice appreciated.
Stop Light & Red light Light on Temp. Gauge Flashing
Moderator: RichardW
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For Problem 2: If the ABS light is on then the Anti-lock Braking System is not in use and the brakes are working in conventional way.
Most probably you have a broken ABS sensor which can be traced by measuring the resistances from the connector pins (forum topics Search).
Most probably you have a broken ABS sensor which can be traced by measuring the resistances from the connector pins (forum topics Search).
C5 II 2.0i 16V - 2005 - Estate - 103KW - EW10A - Petrol - Manual
- DickieG
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Take a look at this post http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... antia+stop
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xantia same symptom except airconditioning
i have a xantia '95 1.9 td, cbu from france
the problem is as said, i do have engine oil leak somewhere i havent identify it yet, but not too much
my problem sometimes it stays too long, i suspected the leak is the cause, but still dont have time to remedy, and pinpoint where is it
what drive me crazy, whenever stop light come out, it shut of airconditioning, blower still working but the coolness gone (mind you im from malaysia, hot country)
theres a time it goes like a disco light, blinking on and off
when that happend, my fan also goes on and off as well
i can really hear relay engage and disengaged
thanks a million
in malaysia, ppl do not go for diy most of the time
they go for repair, but unlike me, i like diy as much as possible
the problem is as said, i do have engine oil leak somewhere i havent identify it yet, but not too much
my problem sometimes it stays too long, i suspected the leak is the cause, but still dont have time to remedy, and pinpoint where is it
what drive me crazy, whenever stop light come out, it shut of airconditioning, blower still working but the coolness gone (mind you im from malaysia, hot country)
theres a time it goes like a disco light, blinking on and off
when that happend, my fan also goes on and off as well
i can really hear relay engage and disengaged
thanks a million
in malaysia, ppl do not go for diy most of the time
they go for repair, but unlike me, i like diy as much as possible
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Double check your coolant level.
1.9TD+ SX Xantia Estate (Cassy) running on 100% veg
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
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DIY sphere tool
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
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DIY sphere tool
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The light could VERY Well be a faulty sensor in the thermostat housing!
IF the guage with is more accurate is reading normal then dont worry about it, but my guess is that one of the sensors, NOT sure which one it is, there s a Blue, Brown and a Green one, is playing up..
The Brown one is the Fan sensor, if you unplug it the fans SHOULD go full speed... The green one I think is the guage, so that leave the blue one - what its telling you is EXCESSIVE engine temperture.. in the event of over heating.. but if the guage is normal, then its a faulse output indicating as said, a dodgy sensor..
I Could have the colour to job order above the wrong way, but thats what the three of them doo...
Paul
IF the guage with is more accurate is reading normal then dont worry about it, but my guess is that one of the sensors, NOT sure which one it is, there s a Blue, Brown and a Green one, is playing up..
The Brown one is the Fan sensor, if you unplug it the fans SHOULD go full speed... The green one I think is the guage, so that leave the blue one - what its telling you is EXCESSIVE engine temperture.. in the event of over heating.. but if the guage is normal, then its a faulse output indicating as said, a dodgy sensor..
I Could have the colour to job order above the wrong way, but thats what the three of them doo...
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
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A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
Many thanks to everyone, who offered advice & suggestions. One problem that I didn't mention was that in addition to the problems stated, the seat belt light was also staying on. I didn't mention this because I felt that cleaning the switches (under the seats) would cure it. I decided however to recharge the battery as it seemed slow to turnover the engine. I left it on the charger for 24 hours, on refitting the seatbelt light was and is cured.
(2) Lights flashing when air conditioning (temp. control) switched on. only one fan (passenger side) operating on fast speed. Tried shorting the relay contacts failed, connecting directly to the battery failed to move the motor on drivers side, removed the fan blade, and tapped the motor in several locations, got it working normally. It appears the brushes were stuck.
(3) A.B.S sensor still not fixed, Thanks all.
(2) Lights flashing when air conditioning (temp. control) switched on. only one fan (passenger side) operating on fast speed. Tried shorting the relay contacts failed, connecting directly to the battery failed to move the motor on drivers side, removed the fan blade, and tapped the motor in several locations, got it working normally. It appears the brushes were stuck.
(3) A.B.S sensor still not fixed, Thanks all.
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The later Xantia fan motors can have a problem where the rear porous bush seizes onto the armature shaft. First symptom is fan squeal in operation, second symptom is fan not operating, while relay contacts fry up from attempts to deliver extra current.
As the fan is attempted to be switched on each time, it causes a momentary short/stumble in the electricals.
I'd suggest the fan motor needs some looking at; I wrote up how to remove them relatively easily, in another thread. If it feels stiff to turn compared to the always-functional unit, then it definitely needs a teardown and service.
Unpick it at the fan side casing flange where it's peened/staked together. A light polish of the shaft coupled with slight clearancing of the bush (in both cases with kerosene and P600) - then stewed in hot ATF for an hour, is adequate. Make sure the forward casing flange is flat before you peen the case barrel back into it.
Cheers, Adam.
As the fan is attempted to be switched on each time, it causes a momentary short/stumble in the electricals.
I'd suggest the fan motor needs some looking at; I wrote up how to remove them relatively easily, in another thread. If it feels stiff to turn compared to the always-functional unit, then it definitely needs a teardown and service.
Unpick it at the fan side casing flange where it's peened/staked together. A light polish of the shaft coupled with slight clearancing of the bush (in both cases with kerosene and P600) - then stewed in hot ATF for an hour, is adequate. Make sure the forward casing flange is flat before you peen the case barrel back into it.
Cheers, Adam.
help
some friend suggest me to use sand paper to scrap away rust
as my previous post, i remark my coolant is up to specified level
so, i took out those two, and to my surprise (i only realize this when re assembly all of it) the coolant level is lower than on the coolant expansion tank
but i can see coolant on the expansion valve is at the okay level
i actually recently realized i need to bleed this anyway
what possibly could happen to my machine, why is this possible
i do think water pump causing the coolant to flow right?
some friend suggest me to use sand paper to scrap away rust
as my previous post, i remark my coolant is up to specified level
so, i took out those two, and to my surprise (i only realize this when re assembly all of it) the coolant level is lower than on the coolant expansion tank
but i can see coolant on the expansion valve is at the okay level
i actually recently realized i need to bleed this anyway
what possibly could happen to my machine, why is this possible
i do think water pump causing the coolant to flow right?