Stop Light & Red light Light on Temp. Gauge Flashing

[jmd]

I've just upgraded to a 110 BHP Hdi Xantia.9Year 2000) full service records etc Problem is the above light's are flashing, but only when the A/C is switched on. Any advice appreciated. (apart from telling me not to use the air conditioning).

Problem 2. The ABS light stays on continually. As the brakes are working O.K I feel that this is not a big problem, again any advice appreciated.

[VertVega]

For Problem 2: If the ABS light is on then the Anti-lock Braking System is not in use and the brakes are working in conventional way.
Most probably you have a broken ABS sensor which can be traced by measuring the resistances from the connector pins (forum topics Search).

[xantia_v6]

The temperature warning is likely to be due to a problem with the radiator fans or controller (usually called the Bitron).

The first check is to see if the radiator fans both run at half speed when the A/C is turned on.

There is pleny of information available with the search function on this site.

[DickieG]

Take a look at this post http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... antia+stop

[AbangCorp]

i have a xantia '95 1.9 td, cbu from france

the problem is as said, i do have engine oil leak somewhere i havent identify it yet, but not too much

my problem sometimes it stays too long, i suspected the leak is the cause, but still dont have time to remedy, and pinpoint where is it

what drive me crazy, whenever stop light come out, it shut of airconditioning, blower still working but the coolness gone (mind you im from malaysia, hot country)

theres a time it goes like a disco light, blinking on and off
when that happend, my fan also goes on and off as well
i can really hear relay engage and disengaged

thanks a million

in malaysia, ppl do not go for diy most of the time
they go for repair, but unlike me, i like diy as much as possible

[Xaccers]

Double check your coolant level.

[AbangCorp]

my coolant level is always ok
use 2l cit coolant recently

but i am also aware theres a leak around connector from front to the fuel filter housing

[citroenxm]

The light could VERY Well be a faulty sensor in the thermostat housing!

IF the guage with is more accurate is reading normal then dont worry about it, but my guess is that one of the sensors, NOT sure which one it is, there s a Blue, Brown and a Green one, is playing up..

The Brown one is the Fan sensor, if you unplug it the fans SHOULD go full speed... The green one I think is the guage, so that leave the blue one - what its telling you is EXCESSIVE engine temperture.. in the event of over heating.. but if the guage is normal, then its a faulse output indicating as said, a dodgy sensor..

I Could have the colour to job order above the wrong way, but thats what the three of them doo...

Paul

[mrlogik]

Pull the coolant sensor connector wire of sqirt with wd40 and pop back on and see if it still does it?

[jmd]

Many thanks to everyone, who offered advice & suggestions. One problem that I didn't mention was that in addition to the problems stated, the seat belt light was also staying on. I didn't mention this because I felt that cleaning the switches (under the seats) would cure it. I decided however to recharge the battery as it seemed slow to turnover the engine. I left it on the charger for 24 hours, on refitting the seatbelt light was and is cured.
(2) Lights flashing when air conditioning (temp. control) switched on. only one fan (passenger side) operating on fast speed. Tried shorting the relay contacts failed, connecting directly to the battery failed to move the motor on drivers side, removed the fan blade, and tapped the motor in several locations, got it working normally. It appears the brushes were stuck.
(3) A.B.S sensor still not fixed, Thanks all.

[addo]

The later Xantia fan motors can have a problem where the rear porous bush seizes onto the armature shaft. First symptom is fan squeal in operation, second symptom is fan not operating, while relay contacts fry up from attempts to deliver extra current.

As the fan is attempted to be switched on each time, it causes a momentary short/stumble in the electricals.

I'd suggest the fan motor needs some looking at; I wrote up how to remove them relatively easily, in another thread. If it feels stiff to turn compared to the always-functional unit, then it definitely needs a teardown and service.

Unpick it at the fan side casing flange where it's peened/staked together. A light polish of the shaft coupled with slight clearancing of the bush (in both cases with kerosene and P600) - then stewed in hot ATF for an hour, is adequate. Make sure the forward casing flange is flat before you peen the case barrel back into it.

Cheers, Adam.

[jmd]

Thanks Adam, but my fan has now gone to the other extreme - starts up when the car is started and stays running all the time - makes no difference whether the A/c is on, or not, or whether engine is cold or hot.

[AbangCorp]

help

some friend suggest me to use sand paper to scrap away rust
as my previous post, i remark my coolant is up to specified level

so, i took out those two, and to my surprise (i only realize this when re assembly all of it) the coolant level is lower than on the coolant expansion tank

but i can see coolant on the expansion valve is at the okay level
i actually recently realized i need to bleed this anyway

what possibly could happen to my machine, why is this possible
i do think water pump causing the coolant to flow right?