Guys is there a DIY sphere changing guide anywhere? A Dummy's style guide is what i need please...
Also if the car is lowered to the ground, how do you change the rears...that you then cant get too....is it a case of wheel ramps and then lower the suspension....
Thanks
Im soon to be refurbing the underside which will include new spheres or repainted originals (they work fine, just are rusty)
You'll need the rear up on ramps and you'll also need a good wrench to undo them. Keep the pressure in them until they are loosened off - just a quarter turn.
You MUST loosen the rear 'corner' spheres with the suspension in the high position (the car should be on ramps or axle stands already).
Ramps are onlhy needed if your axle stands don't give you enough room to work. It is not necessary to have the weight of the car on the wheels while changing spheres.
If using axel stands make sure you dont put them under the car to high and to far forward, as we couldnt make the car rise enough to get them out, now that was a bleeding nightmare, best intentions add hours onto a job
Depressurise
Set to high, loosen spheres til they just start to turn (does this apply to all spheres?)
Lower all the way, remove spheres and change
After thinking I believe it would be better to change spheres, then bleed the brakes, then drain LHM and clean filters, then refill with hydraflush, correct?
Hi toby slightly wrong order. set to high, loosen spheres 1/4 turn, lower suspension, depressurise then remove. If they are tight all the way get ready to drown in the green stuff as the gas has gone and the sphere is full of fluid, wish I had a pound etc. If your really unlucky (as I have been twice) the rear struts are alluminum and can suffer from corrosion so that when you unscrew the sphere a piece of the lip locating the seal breaks away. It's about £70 for a new one . Any way hope you are lucky. Regards John.
Dad and I did my accumulator sphere the other day:-
Drive car up onto ramps
Drop to service low
Loosen relief screw 1/4 turn
Attempt (and eventually) manage to remove sphere. (NB - we made wrench up from a short length motocycle chain through a sturdy bar, using a suitable sized socket through the end of chain once the chain was round the spere. "Resistance was futile" with this approach. )
Find old o-ring seal and discard.
Wipe fresh LHM onto new o-ring and FIT TO THE DOODAD WHERE THE SPHERE GOES, not to the sphere itself.
Wind on new sphere.
Tighten pressure relief screw.
Undo hand brake and let car roll off of ramps - ACTUALLY DON'T DO THIS AS YOU DON'T HAVE ANY BRAKES AND YOU SCRAPE THE HELL OUT THE FRONT AS THE CAR DOESN'T HAVE EVEN RIDE HEIGHT COS YOU LEFT SET ON LOW...
Inspect bottom of car for damage.
Be glad that damage is only minor.
Start car.
Perform copious citaerobics, checking for air returning to the LHM tank esp. on service low.
Not sure if the above is how Anders would do it, but it worked. The removal tool idea is good. As is the warning about not dropping the car of the ramps as I did (still a bit new to Xantias - I probably ought to be locked up for my own good).
- Ian.
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Renault Laguna II 2.2 dCi 2002 (bought June 2012)
Nissan Micra 1.1 96P (Mrs Gnerk)
Citroen ZX 1.9D Avantage 95N (untidy but runs wells, FOR SALE JUNE 2012)
you dont need to lower the suspention whilst replaceing the A/C sphere, you just loosen the bleed screw, and have a tray under to collect the citro blood (LHM)
regards malcolm