C5 steering rack

[Sloppysod]

Steering Rack Aficionados - ASSEMBLE !
.......... that's why these pipes can only really be considered single use....... .

Sorry Bobbins, I disagree with that statement, if you followed my saga, 3 racks in 3 months 3 years ago, each time I replaced the racks I fitted new seals I bought from simply bearings, and tightened the clamp plate to the correct torque - one grunt, no problems yet....... Touch wood.

...... 2 new lip seals (R23 20x30x5) arrived yesterday, £4.03 delivered off eBay. Will keep them "in stock" until I have an LDS puddle

Not sure these will be any good, but will be interesting to find out........

[MattBLancs]

Not sure these will be any good, but will be interesting to find out........

They might well be rubbish, but I'm hoping they act best as an insurance policy - that I never need to call upon!

[MattBLancs]

The big decision really is do I throw £20 at a "speedi sleeve" - all rather resting on the assumption that I can get the rack out and disassemble it to the ** point of needing to swap this seal!

Never taken a rack to bits before, so uphill learning curve expected!

** Hopefully in the distant future!

[aerodynamica]

The big decision really is do I throw £20 at a "speedi sleeve" - all rather resting on the assumption that I can get the rack out and disassemble it to the ** point of needing to swap this seal!

Never taken a rack to bits before, so uphill learning curve expected!

** Hopefully in the distant future!

Hey Matt, I think the only bit of the rack that you really have to remove is the pinion valve itself because the troublesome seal is fitted from the 'inside'. If i had been in a position the other week to fit a speedisleeve I def, would have. The main thig you have to watch for when refitting the pinion valve is to ensure the shaft with the pinion slots back ito the rack teeth in the exact same place with the rack in the straight-ahead position. Gotta do that to ensure the shaft end flats are in the same position as before because getting it one rack tooth out leaves you with a steering wheel that's way out of straight and there are no splines on the shaft to readjust it! I say this like I encountered it but really I recall another C5 owner making this mistake and reporting it - rack has to come back out again if this mistake is made!

[MattBLancs]

Hi Graeme,

Appreciate the feedback. I think we have read the same post as remember that tale too! A good bit of learning to bear in mind if/when I get stuck in to this. Will have to think how to accurately mark shaft and housing to ensure I don't end up a tooth out. If rack pulled fully to one end or other of its travel at least that would eliminate one variable. Hopefully a scribed line, small drilled hole, etc in the shaft to align with the housing would be the answer. Need to remain visible once the de-rusting is completed, so a scribed line would likely be ground off very easily. Hmm, needs thought

[Jay-Bruce]

What about marking the exposed section of the pinion shaft with an automatic centre punch, and using an engineers square transcribe the mark to the pinion valve housing?

[Jay-Bruce]

[MattBLancs]

What about marking the exposed section of the pinion shaft with an automatic centre punch, and using an engineers square transcribe the mark to the pinion valve housing?

Yes a good shout, I was thinking "the same but more so" i.e. a stopped hole (say 3mm) in both pinion and housing, say a couple of mm deep, then no chance of accidentally grinding it off during restoration of the shaft (ahead of the speedi sleeve)

Would likely set to the shaft employing "medium violence" (e.g. angle grinder flap disk / power file sander) to remove all traces of corrosion from surfaces. The. Phosphoric acid to neutralise what remains, then splodge of Belzona and a speedi sleeve pushed on whilst still wet.

https://www.diy.com/departments/silverl ... 913_BQ.prd

[bobins]

I do have an old rack here - minus the pinion housing which I sent to Jay-Bruce - if anyone wants it to experiment on. I've not got anything to pack it in at present, and I've no idea what P&P would be, but it's sitting unused and unloved in my shed at present.

[bobins]

What about marking the exposed section of the pinion shaft with an automatic centre punch, and using an engineers square transcribe the mark to the pinion valve housing?

IIRC, the shaft has a helical cut gear so you'd actually be better off marking a gear tooth in respect to the housing at the point of removal of the shaft.

[MattBLancs]

What about marking the exposed section of the pinion shaft with an automatic centre punch, and using an engineers square transcribe the mark to the pinion valve housing?

IIRC, the shaft has a helical cut gear so you'd actually be better off marking a gear tooth in respect to the housing at the point of removal of the shaft.

Gear teeth likely hardened, brittle and likely to chip, so don't think that a good idea??

[bobins]

Use a Sharpie pen !

[MattBLancs]

Use a Sharpie pen !

No match for the angle grinder or power file! (Yes I'm not supposed to grind that bit, but am a clumsy bugger, so wouldn't put it past me to miss and whizz a pen mark off no trouble at all!

[Jay-Bruce]

I do have an old rack here - minus the pinion housing which I sent to Jay-Bruce - if anyone wants it to experiment on. I've not got anything to pack it in at present, and I've no idea what P&P would be, but it's sitting unused and unloved in my shed at present.

If anyone is going to do some constructive with bobin's steering rack, PM me a UK address and I'll post the aforementioned valve coved down to you.

[Stu-Scotland]

Finally got round to posting a for sale ad in the for sale section if anyone's interested before the scrappie gets it.