Will's Citroen Xantia Activa

Contains the Activa Register, Buyers Guide and Activa "finds" on eBay and elsewhere. Post Activa-specific items that do not fall naturally into the Citroen Forum.
KP
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Unread post by KP »

Well it lasted longer than 24hours....

Today after we had looked at some houses the temp guage started creeping up...
80...(things looked ok still) then 90....(both fans kicked in full speed)....100.....(start to panic and think it will come down soon...)....105, turn engine off as soon as i pull over before the warning light comes on but steam coming from the passenger side of the bonnet..

Pop the bonnet and poke around as the steam starts to drop off and from behind the airbox i can see something that looks a bit ratty....
Looks like a coolant hose has burst from age and has hardened up a bit as well. It looks to me like it comes from the thermostat housing heading towards the chasis leg then curls back off towards the bulkhead :(

At the curve in the pipe its perished like a kind of bomb has gone off. Im hoping i haven't made the head B.E.R. or anything else and that its not some stupid priced pipe that i need to get from citroen so i'll have to check PR net tomorrow when i get into work and see how much it is as i dont have the details to get into my PR net account at home.

had to wait 80minutes for the flatbed to come out and started her up for a few seconds as the engine temp had gone right down to under 60 by the time they arrived, just to get suspension onto full hieght, and then same when i got home to put her in front of the house.
Bit sad now but i hope its easily fixed and not a sign of things to come as im now super worried about the strut tops even though i crawled over some speed humps(not the sleeping policmen kind) at about 15mph this afternoon and avoid any potholes or rough looking roads and make detours to newer softer less harsh roads at the moment.....

Anyone know the part number for the pipe off hand at all??? :)

She is still super shiney, still sinks on the passenger side when you switch the engine off and the accumulator still ticks like a metronome but that im hoping to sort at the weekend :)
Toby_HDi
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Unread post by Toby_HDi »

Not quite sure which you mean but this may help:

Image

Can pull up Part Number and price if you let me know which it is
Toby


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XantiaMan
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Unread post by XantiaMan »

Definatly couldnt have seen that one coming, but its if the age where things like hoses can go unfortunatly. Your unlikely to have damaged anything as long as it was not run bone dry.

Considering the state of the strut tops i wouldnt advise driving it any distance anyway, these should be the first things on your list, just too risky IMO.
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KP
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Unread post by KP »

I reckon its part 72 to be honest :)

I know the strut tops are bad but i have to wait till pay day for them unfortunately :(

Anyone got a guide to replacing them at all???
KP
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Unread post by KP »

It looks like the dreaded one that goes into the heater matrix but i cant find a part number for it :(
addo
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Unread post by addo »

Part #72 is a hose clip. I think the matrix hoses are on another page called "Heater and water hoses".
KP
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Unread post by KP »

yeah from what i can see they are circa £100 and they come as 2 hoses together :( Not a very good design!! May have to try and make another pipe up to replace this one instead just so i can get to work and back next week and survive until payday.
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DickieG
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Unread post by DickieG »

If it is the matrix connection hose you'll have quite a bit of fun just trying to gain access to the matrix connection to separate it. From personal experience of changing a matrix on two Activa's I think you'll have to remove the O/S top engine mount and lower the engine as its far easier than trying to get the manifold off. Alternatively if only one section of the hose has deteriorated it might be far easier and cheaper to graft in a new section of hose.
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KP
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Unread post by KP »

I'm thinking along those lines dickie as 2 tiny bits of plastic piping would be of better use to be honest and as i now dont have insurance on the estate and its due to be sold soon hopefully then it would mean a small bodge may be needed :(
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CitroJim
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Unread post by CitroJim »

Sorry to hear this Will :(

Damage is unlikely though unless it got really, really hot and bothered. The old XU10J2 is a tough old beast and they run pretty hot in normal circumstances anyway.

You should be OK in making up a joint. My V6 has a duff matrix and it has been bypassed using a short length of 22mm copper water pipe to link the two matrix hoses.
Jim

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KP
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Unread post by KP »

Cool stuff i'll look into that later i think as i need to get some turf from B&Q as well!!

How about the strut tops Jim? have you ever come across a guide for them as i dont want to rely on teh Baynes BOL too much for these things, specially being an activa :)
addo
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Unread post by addo »

Strut tops are just the same as a Hydractive four-potter. Which, ignoring the different size pipe opening/threads, are the same as a regular non-Hydractive Xantia.

Failure of Series II strut tops is extremely rare. To date, nobody's cut one up to see why. But in a pinch you could probably snag some Exclusive tops off a 98-up model. Should be loads cheaper, especially if you visit one of the self-serve yards.
KP
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Unread post by KP »

I'd rather not chance it as i want to have the Activa as a Keeper :)

if i get new ones ill probably prime them up and paint them with some shakey can stuff to seal them in better before putting them on but i cant find a guide to to replacing them :( Im sure i've seen one or pictures of someone doing it before though...
addo
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Unread post by addo »

R&R seems to be a pretty straightforward exercise, but note the replacement tops often seem to require a new gaiter as well. Minimise the risk of dust or grit falling into the system, by pre-cleaning where practical and keeping your hands dust and dirt free.

Crack the centre nut first thing of all, and slightly crack the strut spheres. Then I'd suggest putting the front up on stands, and removing the driven wheels. Start the car, set it to lowest height, and open the regulator bleed screw. Use a trolley jack to compress (collapse) the strut in question, then stop the motor.

Remove the sphere and feed pipe. Almost remove the top nut - leave a thread or so on it. Unbolt the sphere bracket and feed it into the wheelwell by lowering, then removing the additional trolley jack. Leave it there as a sort of "umbrella" while you clean and inspect the contact area of the car's body.

Now remove the centre nut and ease off the bracket (aka strut top). Remove the gaiter (bellows) too. Check the fit of your old gaiter on the new bracket - if it's a goer, then take the new ones back. Clean the oldies and refit them, in this case.

If you can get that far, reversing the process shouldn't be too challenging. Don't forget to check all torques as you final fit - including the wheel nuts!
KP
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Unread post by KP »

Cool ok i got a nice 22mm corner and small straight section of copper pipe so now i have to pop the airbox off.... which isn't going like other Xantia's i've had where it lifts straight up. I think i can get round it by just unboloting the top half and the air hosing to it as well to get good access to the pipe and cut off enough to make a good join and then i'll try and get a picture of the pipe to show whats happened.

When i stuck my finger in it felt like layers of pipe :(

Many thanks to everyone here i already feel like a member of the clan now and cant wait to get it all sorted :)