Peugeot 3008 Crossover 1.6HDi Allure - Is it a worthwhile car?

[Rhothgar]

Yes did the belt earlier in the year. There are loads of you tube videos on this engine. You can probably do it without removing the scuttle panel, but it makes it much easier if you take it off - and this will give access for the air and diesel filters. Note there are several different timing kits if you go non dealer - I used an SKF one. You can do it with drill bits, but a set of timing pins is cheap, and saves you jagging your hand on the sharp end of a drill bit! Many of the videos show the use of the flywheel pin (centre line of engine above the exhaust) as a timing pin, but it is not - it is only for holding the crank whilst you undo / tighten the crank pulley, and is not at the timing position. You probably need an E spline socket and T40(?) for the engine mount, and also a 16mm spanner. Crank bolt should be replaced - a decent kit will come with a new bolt.

Could do with removing the scuttle panel as there are loads of leaves down the sides that I want to clear out. It's another string in your bow then when you learn how to do something that makes life easier.

I have a geniune pinning kit so shouldn't have any problems locking off and pinning. Interestingly, Marc uploaded the fuel filter change that looks a bit of a faff but I doubt some Citroen Tools for checking fuel system pressure for the DW10 engine earlier this year. Brand new not opened them yet and I could swear they are the same part number (if memory serves me correctly - which I hope it does). It'll make the job cleaner.

I looked at the SKF kit when Marc told me the price of the original just to give the other half some options. SKF produce really nice bearings but Gates and INA kits at the moment are only £63 and £77 respectively as there is a 10% discount. The SKF was £102. I wonder what brand PSA have manufacture their kits?

[Rhothgar]

Procedure is now up Roger - I had time to do it this evening - see my post Here with Links

Marc. Final question I hope and open to anyone of course to comment on.

Been delving into the Stellantis Recommended Oils 12th July document and I have a slight confusion about the oils.

I am looking at getting the Total Quartz Ineo ECS 5W30 B71 2290 Spec. This is in the list of recommended Total oils. On the packaging photos I can see it is B71 2290 but it also shows it as being ACEA C2! However, the little matrix of "Technical specifications of the ACEA standards" states ACEA C2 only indicates it as being an ACEA C2 oil as being "Medium" having one + symbol.

Am I right in thinking that this is overriden by the Total Recommendation List as PSA have very probably taken a base ACEA C2 oil and then added their own additives etceteras to create a much superior product? I am sure that's what it is but could do with clarification.

Once I know what oil to use then we'll keep using that oil in the vehicle and simply checking the matrix every time the service is needed.

Thanks in advance.

[GiveMeABreak]

They provide the various standards but PSA standards are generally higher than those of the ACEA.

So they provide both. I’m out at present, but just get the best for your budget. The PSA specifications are what’s important, then you can choose branding.

[Rhothgar]

They provide the various standards but PSA standards are generally higher than those of the ACEA.

So they provide both. I’m out at present, but just get the best for your budget. The PSA specifications are what’s important, then you can choose branding.

Many thanks for the confirmation, Marc. We're going for the Total Quartz Ineo ECS 5W30 B71 2290 oil. £35.99 for 5 litres delivered!!!

Just going to nip and get the Freecor DSC this afternoon from Stellantis.

Looking forward to getting all the work done!

[GiveMeABreak]

Right, so as you can surmise, the ACEA (European Automobile Manufacturers' Association) standards are the minimum standards and are there for reference. PSA standards are higher.

So in the table, the '+' provides an indication of performance: the more '+'s, the better.

So in your case for example, the QUARTZ INEO ECS 5W30 shows it meets the ACEA minimum standards, but additionally, exceeds these standards and meets PSA specifications B71 2290.

In other words, the oils listed in the table of recommended PSA / DS Standards, such as QUARTZ INEO ECS 5W30 are PSA recommended and probably the best quality.

You may find oils of other brands that meet just the ACEA standards but are not of the same quality or may not meet the PSA standards.

More info on the benefits of this oil are listed here:

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-162101-tot ... khhueAfGno

[RichardW]

It doesn't have an elastic band in oil, nor a chain made of chocolate, so as long as the oil is DPF friendly it will be OK. In my experience DV6s rarely use any oil.

[PaulC5]

A couple of weeks ago I serviced our 1.6 hdi Cactus, this uses Total INEO First 0w-30 oil. It takes 3.75 litres and I got out 3 litres so over the year and about 8000 miles it used about 3/4 litre. A bit was still in the oil filter. For a few years I have been getting our Total oils from TMS Auto parts through ebay.

When it comes to different brands of timing belts it is possible copy parts may have a different service life to Citroen parts so might not be the 10 years/so many miles in the service schedule, could be more or less.

[Rhothgar]

Well here's a strange on guys!

Never trust tooling part numbers on workshop information sheets.

Marc kindly uploaded the DV6C timing belt info last night and I made a note of the tool numbers used specifically by PSA.

Are they correct? NO!

Can you purchase them? NO! Or not so far as I am aware.

I have spent the whole of the afternoon trying to source the Plug Set Kit and the Click Fit Unions. I have now given up.

0194-T shows up a timing pins for the timing belt on the general t'internet.

4215-T I already have as it's identical for the DW10 engine fuel lines and no doubt many others.

1520-B exists but 5705-T doesn't.

Here are some assumptions / observations:-

Spoke to Stellanis & You Local Peugeot Parts Department couldn't find them and said speak with the Service Department. They couldn't find them either.

Spoke with Bristol Street Motors Citroen Parts Department - always very helpful. They found G-0194-T and from our relative descriptions we think that tool exists. They found G-1620-B and again our relative descriptions match. They couldn't match 5705-T up with anything at all on their system. They were unable to supply them so said speak to Mopar.

Called Mopar. They had no idea but did say that since Stellantis took over a lot of part numbers and information across the group do not align.

Spoke to Stellantis. They basically said they do not sell tools. They only supply to dealers. But basically it quickly became clear that the guy didn't actually know what I was talking about.

In the time it took me to make all these phone calls, I could have probably made the Click Fit Unions on a lathe and I have limited experience of turning metal.

If I had a 3D printer, I could have designed and made some.

Alternatively, I could have got a 3008 fuel filter cover and the connecting pipes, cut them off, plugged the fuel pipes, sawn off the connectors on the fuel filter cover, filled them all with silicone or something that was diesel resistant and made a set of tools.

A QUICK MOAN!

So whilst manufacturers have been forced to accept that independent garages can still service vehicles in accordance with their warranty recommendations, they can prevent anyone including independent garages from purchasing the legitimate tools to make their life more difficult.

Luckily, my mate has one of those big syringes for drawing fuel out and re-injecting it into the fuel filter.

Having said all that, there is a primer bulb of sorts on the top of the filter cover (though I've not physically checked it) so why are any of those tools really needed in the first place?

It's a mad world.

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, so just to explain to you that these procedures are only intended for dealerships / workshops and the tool references referred to are generally part of a kit that the dealers purchase. It is also true that they don't sell these to the public.

They are included there as they are referred to throughout the procedures, but you can find equivalents on the open market. So don't bother trying to source the tools with those references as they won't make any sense to most. They are internal references to the specific tools in the kits.

But if you search for injector plug kits as an example or flywheel locking pins you'll find alternatives to do the job.

[Rhothgar]

Ok, so just to explain to you that these procedures are only intended for dealerships / workshops and the tool references referred to are generally part of a kit that the dealers purchase. It is also true that they don't sell these to the public.

They are included there as they are referred to throughout the procedures, but you can find equivalents on the open market. So don't bother trying to source the tools with those references as they won't make any sense to most. They are internal references to the specific tools in the kits.

But if you search for injector plug kits as an example or flywheel locking pins you'll find alternatives to do the job.

I wish I'd have asked rather than assuming but didn't want to bother you anymore than necessary.

Thanks Marc.

I think I'll look at a 3D printer one day or do the scrapyard bodge in the meantime...

[GiveMeABreak]

No problem.

[RichardW]

You can do it without disconnecting the fuel filter (also the turbo unions it mentions in the procedure). Plug just stops it dripping or getting dirt in, if you're concerned just tie a finger off a glove over it.

[Rhothgar]

You can do it without disconnecting the fuel filter (also the turbo unions it mentions in the procedure). Plug just stops it dripping or getting dirt in, if you're concerned just tie a finger off a glove over it.

Cheers Richard. Sounds like I’m fretting unnecessarily.

I read a post yesterday that made it sound like the engines are impossible to start if you don’t follow the correct procedure.

I’ve been out to check and there is a little primer button. It’s a bit Heath Robinson compared to the primer bulbs of old.

I’ve also worked out how to remove the scuttle panel so that’s another bonus.

Really looking forward to getting it sorted. Been really full on with all our cars of late so I’ll feel a bit lost when I have nothing to do.

I suppose I can get onto learning how to weld for the Xantia S2 after all the servicing is sorted.

[RichardW]

Did the belt on mine first and started it up, then did the fuel filter, that way I would know where the fault is if it wouldn't start

[Rhothgar]

That’s a good call!