CitroJim wrote: 05 Dec 2017, 05:36
Neil, on thing I forgot... Before you start, mark the position of the pump on it's cradle with a line across the pump flange to ensure that on reassembly the pump static timing is maintained...
Finally got some time to start this. As both pump and cradle are to be vapour blasted what's the next best way to mark up the above? Would two pinholes made with, say, a 1/8th drill bit work?
I generally use a paint pen, but if it's going to be blasted that will probably remove the paint. I'm unsure how abrasive vapour blasting is. To be safe use a metal scribe or a centre punch, the drill idea will work also. Anything really that won't be removed during the blasting.
Pete
Notice the BX is still top the list but sadly gone
Couple of quick question for you fellas; didn't realise that when locking the diesel pump sprocket off it would be into the backing plate (yeah I know), so in order to release the backing plate can I move the locking screws one at a time to lock off the cambelt sprocket without losing the timing on the diesel pump sprocket?
This car starts superbly. In the midst of the recent cold blast it started first turn of the key, as it always does, even after five weeks, but with almost everything removed I can see the problem with replacing the glow plugs. Would you replace the plugs now just for the hell of it rather than have to strip it all out at a later date, even though the plugs are obviously doing their job?
Sorry I'm not understanding the timing/locking pins conundrum but I would definitely take the opportunity to change the glow plugs while you have improved access.
They're not a bad job to do normally though many report access difficulty getting the one replaced at the cambelt end (no4?)
Not understanding the timing thing myself either, but if you're having the pump cradle off then I think you'll be into removing/replacing the cambelt while you're about it.
To be really honest, if the GPs are behaving themselves as of now I'd leave them and spend the money towards a decent cambelt kit + water pump and change that little lot since they're more vital to a healthy engine than glow plugs (and if the plugs do fail in future they won't ruin the cylinder head, not really that hard to do the #4 one anyway if you use a 1/4" drive set and a bit of something to make sure the 8mm nut sticks in the socket so you don't drop it down the back of the pump).
The belt, pump and tensioners were changed six years ago in which time the car has done just 18k miles. The belt looks brand new. My memory says the belt should be changed at 72k but I can't remember the interval in years. Tbh if I'd known beforehand that just locking out the diesel pump would cause me so much hassle I would have locked out the flywheel, removed the belt and sprockets, and then the holder for the pump and the backing plate for the cambelt could have come off to be refurbed. Now I have a half-cocked job! Probably best to have the parts refurbed that I set out to do, put it all back together and then in a couple of years do the job fully including the belts, glowplugs etc.
If you don't change the glow plugs, then take them out and put back in with a touch of anti seize. Then, you have no worries should they need removed down the line.
Citroen C5 1.6 HDI 110bhp Estate 06 plate
French Mistresses gone.
Citroen C5 HDI Mk 1 hatchback
Vel Satis 3.5 v6
ZX 1.9D Est.
ZX 1.9DHatch
Xantia 1.9td est.
Xantia 2.0 hdi Est.
Xantia V6 MK1
Xantia V6 MK 2
For the cost of it, I would fit a new one behind the pump if it's more than a couple of years old - it's a real PITA to change with the pump in-situ, whereas it will be a walk in the park with the pump out!!
