Difficulty of replacing a turbo?

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BMcN
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Difficulty of replacing a turbo?

Post by BMcN »

I have a 306 Dturbo and I will be putting a new turbo (Garrett T2) on at the weekend (as a last resort). How hard is it going to be? What is involved and what gaskets do i need to replace?
Cheers
Bryan
Dave Burns
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Post by Dave Burns »

You need an inlet/exhaust manifold gasket, a turbo to exhaust manifold gasket and depending on the type of oil feed connection at the block a new "o" ring, but some of these are just a flared metal compression type fitting.
It's not going to be easey and you need it on stands or better still on ramps to get at bolts from underneath, I prefer ramps as this is the safest method of going under, and I lift the front end with a good trolley jack and lower the car onto the ramps, why, because when you have bits like exhausts hanging off you can't drive up and down them then.
If its got EGR there is a clip on the connecting pipe that can be difficult to refit depending on access to it, plus parts of the EGR valve also obscure certain manifold screws making removal a tedious afair.
Haynes for the ZX at least say the turbo comes out from above after removal of the intake manifold, but I can't see why you shouldn't be able to get it from underneath, if you can you might get away without having to remove the manifolds and then wont need the gasket, but you have to get the turbo to manifold bolts out first and that could be your first major problem, they could be well rusted and cooked in.
A tip for the jubilee clips on the turbo air pipes is to use a 1/4 socket set with a 7mm socket instead of a screwdriver.
Dave
shaun easton
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Post by shaun easton »

its easyer to drop the drivers side engine mount off and drop the engine forward to get to all the difficult bolts etc as for gaskets you proberly have to buy a full head set only about 18 quid . just take it steady cos the haynes manual for 306 td is ****.............
BMcN
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Post by BMcN »

Thanks guys, anybody else know any more common problems?
Also Dave, how will I know if my car has an EGR? I was under the impression that only the HDi had a EGR, not the older mechanical Dturbo? There is a small refrence to it in the haynes manual mentioning that it may have to be disconnected?
If the car did have an EGR and this failed, what would happen to the performance?
wheeler
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Post by wheeler »

on your last post i mentioned about the EGR,what do you mean by mechanicaly operated turbo ? as far as i'm aware the turbos operate pretty much the same on D turbos & HDi's,if the EGR valve was stuck open then the car would lack power,did you check those vaccum pipes like i said ?
BMcN
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Post by BMcN »

When I say mechanical I am reffering to the engine, i.e. injection is not computer controlled as it is on the HDi.
Where abouts is the EGR if I do indeed have one?
Also, the new turbo i have has 2 pipes on the actuator, I think that mine may only have one (I will have to check though). Why would this be and is the replacement turbo still ok?
EDIT: IF anyone has MSN please add me as I could do with some quick replies. bmcn85@hotmail.com
Dave Burns
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Post by Dave Burns »

Since an EGR is an exhaust gas recycling valve that should give anyone about to undertake the removal of the turbo a pretty good idea where to look I would have thought.
If there is one it is at the right hand side of the engine, thats your right as you stand in front of the car facing it, the actual valve is on top of the exgaust manifold and a flexible steel pipe connects it to the intake manifold, the electrovalve controling it will be back near the bulkhead, the vacuum supply pipe is spliced into the servo vacuum pipe usualy.
The EGR normaly faults in the closed state though I suppose they can stick open in extreme cases, such as if there was a permenant vacuum supply to it for whatever reason.
If the electrovalve is not opening the EGR will remain closed, if there is no vacuum supply it will also remain closed, as it will if the EGR diaphragm is shot, there is a healthy spring to close the EGR valve which is why it doesn't usualy stick open.
Dave
BMcN
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Post by BMcN »

I'm only 17, go easy on my dave ;).
Its my Dad thats the mechanic between us. Anyway, the reason I asked is because I would rather know if its the EGR or not before going to the extent of replacing the turbo. How can I test the EGR then?
Also, do you have any idea about the 2 pipes on the actuator on my turbo?
Dave Burns
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Post by Dave Burns »

Check the operation of the electrovalve by giving it 12 volts, it should click if its ok, then power it up with the engine running, if the EGR valve opens the idle speed should drop very slightly as some of the air for combustion will be replaced by exhaust gas, this will be more noticable when the engine is first started from cold so test it then.
The valve should remain closed until the engine is hot and running at least at a fast idle.
Explain where the pipes on the turbo are exactly if you can.
Dave
BMcN
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Post by BMcN »

On the actuator there is two bits for pipes to go into. There is also two pipes coming from the turbo that I presume are meant to be connected to the actuator, they are beside the compression chamber and are mounted on the casing of where the bearing is.
I will try and upload some pictures. How bad would the performance be if the EGR was faulty? Would it cause the turbo to create 0psi boost, as it is doing?
BMcN
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Post by BMcN »

http://www.peugeot-gti.net/photopost/sh ... 07&thumb=1
Ok the photo's are in the link above (just waiting on them being aproved my a Admin).
So just how bad would the performance get with a faulty EGR? On my Dads new TDi , when his EGR went the performance died, would it be similar on my car?
Thanks for your help.
rossd
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Post by rossd »

I think the pipes you are looking at are the oil feed/return pipes.
Ross
BMcN
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Post by BMcN »

Ross, there is 4 pipes near the bearing chamber in total. The 2 that I thought were the oil ones are the one with the pipe still connected and the one thats silver. There is another 2 pipes though.
Here are a couple of the photo's but highlighted. The red circles are what i think is the oil pipes, its the blue i need to know about.
Image
Image
Image
Dave Burns
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Post by Dave Burns »

What vehicle has this come off, looks like a water cooled turbo to me.
Is there any spring resistance to the wastegate because it looks like it needs some fancy type of control with the two pipe outlets on the diaphragm housing.
I would be inclined to forget about fitting this turbo, if you really need one get the correct one for the job.
Even if the EGR (if there is one) is stuck open I doubt it would rob you of all your boost, I think its more likely that the turbo waste gate is stuck open or broken some how.
You have had a pressure gauge on it I presume and driven the car to see what boost there is if any, and not just reved it stationary because that wont produce much.
Dave
BMcN
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Post by BMcN »

I was told that the turbo came off a R reg 306 Turbo Deisel. I bought the turbo under the impression it was a exact match.
I don't think that the car has an EGR valve, I could not find one anywhere. I dont think the EGR is the problem.
If I take the actuator arm off the wastegate, the wastegate moves freely and the arm is quite heavly spring loaded.
If the two pipe I have circled in blue are meant for water cooling, where does the actuator get its 'sample' reading from? So that it can move the diaphram?
If i post all the numbers that are printed on the turbo is there any way of tracing what exactly it is?
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