With the injectors out it spins over free enough so its not binding anywhere but with the injectors in it just sounds a bit odd. I'm 99% certain I've got the timing right on it, the cam hole lines up and the crank hole also lines up, its just the pump that's a bit weird. this is a picture of how I've got it.
But this is with the engine rotated 180 deg (I'm assuming the pump is the same size as the crank so that has turned 180 as well.
It has a timing notch in it that side as well, you can see a bit of blue paint on one side of the puilley so maybe that is the correct one to use but how critical is the pump timing anyway, diagbox sais there was 500psi or so in the rail and had the crank rpm about 280-300 however it says cam/crank corelation is out although my pins are bang on.
The only thing that is different is the crank pully, I damaged the reluctor ring taking the engine out so I got a whole new timing pully complete with relutor ring, the pully said it was compatible with my engine, the later one as the earlier pulleys look different of the 16 valves. But what I did notice was the reluctor ring is only pressed onto the timing sprocket and it came off my old pully quite easily with no way of getting it back in the right place again to ensure the timing hole is in the correct place.
This is my new pulley.
Is there any other way of confirming the timing is correct whilst the injectors are out other than using the pins? Seems stupid to have a ring that can come off the pully fairly easily with no way of getting it back in the right place again, the timing hole should have been through the pulley itself somewhere.
