Some puzzles for me and my 307

[Rhothgar]

I've also got a set of these:

Link from eBay:
https://ebay.us/m/vwWYOX

Which are also very useful - designed to be hit but also a hex to allow them to be turned with a spanner.

Not too aware of garage sales in the UK - we tend to have "Car Boot Sales" where folks assemble with their, miscellaneous tat / second hand treasure at central location, commonly car park if a sports ground or similar.

I do t know a great deal about car boot sales as I've near deliberately stayed well away from them - my hoarding tendencies would end up with me accumulating loads of useful stuff I'm sure!

I'm so glad I am not a lone hoarder...

[Rhothgar]

Good thoughts folks! I have got a magnetiser/demagnetiser block thing, but like the electromagnetic idea too.

I believe the key property of the screwdrivers discussed above is around that pelting the end of them with a hammer is designed in to their construction (and hence isn't an act of tool abuse!) hence the "hammer - through" or (yuk!) hammer-thu term used.

But doesn't hammering a magnet make it loose its properties? They look like a really good set for the price especially. The hex might be useful but you would need the exact size of head on the screw to avoid damage as I am sure you will know.

Very good though for using as a makeshift impact driver. Much better in fact as you can hold the screwdriver with your hand (elbow at 90 degrees to form a lever). Apply judicious torque whilst hammering the head. More control than an impact driver in my experience.

[Rhothgar]

P1403 and P1404 relate to the addition water heating block on the bulkhead below the windscreen.

If you need if I can find the link to one of my recent posts about repairing mine. I had the codes for 3.5 years and only just got around to it in December 2025.

Basically, the first thing to check is the nut to the earth wire which should be a thick white wire connected to the back of the block. See if you can undo it with your fingers. If not, undo it, clean up mating faces and replace nut. A bit of Thread-lock wouldn't go amiss and don't go Neanderthal on tightening the nut as the stud is a small shank.

Next. If fault still exists, remove the rubber covers and carefully remove glow-plugs. Clean up all surfaces. Test for continuity between threads and shank where nut screws onto. Replace any that are out of range. If you are the careful type, you can test the glow-plugs across the battery but holding with a pair of pliers, applying to battery positive and a thick earth wire to the threads. I use 2.5mm 240V mains cable. The tip should glow red. DO NOT TOUCH! and put them somewhere sensible to cool down for a while afterwards. Even when they are not red they are still damned hot. You will only touch them once...

Where, please?

Sorry but I've no idea on a 307. Mine is on a Xantia.

Find your heater matrix and look back along the pipes which will run along the rear bulkhead and if you have the same type of aluminium heater block it will be plumbed in quite close to the heater matrix. I'll take a photo of mine so you can see what you might be looking for assuming yours is the same type. Unless the 307 had an Eberspracher type heater below the wheelarch?

[MattBLancs]

But doesn't hammering a magnet make it loose its properties?

I think that's true. I'd not worry too much about the magnetic properties, these are more about the "pounding it into submission!" capabilities!

They look like a really good set for the price especially. The hex might be useful but you would need the exact size of head on the screw to avoid damage as I am sure you will know.

Err, "depends on application" ! Sometimes I have gone up a size (e.g use PZ3 in place of PZ2) if the screw has been pre-mangled for me by others.

Very good though for using as a makeshift impact driver. Much better in fact as you can hold the screwdriver with your hand (elbow at 90 degrees to form a lever). Apply judicious torque whilst hammering the head. More control than an impact driver in my experience.

Yes, exactly this, the ability to be "mostly impact, little bit of torque" (or I guess, visa versa) is a really good benefit to using these.

Manual impact screwdriver (i.e. hit with hammer type) also I think is better success rate than electric (mostly on the basis the former is impact plus twist, the latter is just a torsion hammer effect)

From https://www.picturequotes.com/dont-force-it-get-a-bigger-hammer-quote-110055

[MattBLancs]

addition water heating block on the bulkhead below the windscreen.

Where, please?

Apologies, missed this question:

Mark up

If it's like a 306, under the air box (A)
If it's like Xantia, on the bulkhead (B)

[Paul-R]

But doesn't hammering a magnet make it loose its properties?

Yes to a certain extent depending on how naturally magnetic it is.

I remember an experiment at school which showed the opposite effect. Bashing an iron or steel rod would leave it weakly magnetic. ISTR it was an effect best seen if the metal rod was in a north south orientation as as it was hit.

[MattBLancs]

Bashing an iron or steel rod would leave it weakly magnetic. ISTR it was an effect best seen if the metal rod was in a north south orientation as as it was hit.

By eck, I'm not turning the car round to get my screwdriver polar aligned!

[ozfrog]

But doesn't hammering a magnet make it loose its properties?

Yes to a certain extent depending on how naturally magnetic it is.

By eck, I'm not turning the car round to get my screwdriver polar aligned!

I remember an experiment at school …

Matt, you're worried about turning the car around? I'm worried that Paul can remember something from (high?) school!

[Rhothgar]

P1403 and P1404 relate to the addition water heating block on the bulkhead below the windscreen.

If you need if I can find the link to one of my recent posts about repairing mine. I had the codes for 3.5 years and only just got around to it in December 2025.

Basically, the first thing to check is the nut to the earth wire which should be a thick white wire connected to the back of the block. See if you can undo it with your fingers. If not, undo it, clean up mating faces and replace nut. A bit of Thread-lock wouldn't go amiss and don't go Neanderthal on tightening the nut as the stud is a small shank.

Next. If fault still exists, remove the rubber covers and carefully remove glow-plugs. Clean up all surfaces. Test for continuity between threads and shank where nut screws onto. Replace any that are out of range. If you are the careful type, you can test the glow-plugs across the battery but holding with a pair of pliers, applying to battery positive and a thick earth wire to the threads. I use 2.5mm 240V mains cable. The tip should glow red. DO NOT TOUCH! and put them somewhere sensible to cool down for a while afterwards. Even when they are not red they are still damned hot. You will only touch them once...

Where, please?

Sorry for late reply. Thought I’d taken more if a zoomed out photo too but clearly not. The glow plugs are under the four rubber caps.

[ozfrog]

Apologies, all. Things here have not been good for me for a while.

I think I might be able to get to see under the bonnet of my 307 on Friday - as long as it doesn't rain!

[ozfrog]

If you have a multimeter

Yes, but not completely competent with it. And even more lacking in confidence with it.

Stick a picture of your meter up on here, I'm sure we can talk you through it (easiest if we can see what you've got to play with)

Very nice of you to offer. Thank you so much.

This is it

https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Cat ... oductIndex

[myglaren]

That link looks broken, or something

[Rhothgar]

They've just got a block on IP's from the UK. So you just have to pretend you are in Australia, Steve...

Here it is.

[myglaren]

Didn't think of using the VPN for that.

[mickthemaverick]

Although that works I think it's better to encourage attaching pictures directly to ensure valid posts in the future.

Follow this guide:

viewtopic.php?p=516529#p516529