XANTIA HDi RUNNING ROUGH

[PaulC5]

If there is any slight wobble of the valves in the head the valve guides will be worn. I once decoked a Marina 1275 head and put new guide seals on but it did not stop the oil use. The piston rings were also replaced. I then had it overhauled professionally including new guides and polishing and it went from topping up the oil oil every 300 miles to over every 1000 miles.

[Skull]

Cheers Paul I have to say before this episode the oil level has been very constant, I've haven't added any oil between 6k services in the 10 years I've had it so I am only changing the oil stem seals because they're in the gasket kit and they're in sight, not because it was smoking (prior to this current problem).

The valves are loose at the minute, tiniest of movement but I expect that's because they aren't under spring tension

I'm attempting to lap them in and clean up the ports a bit but the new lapping drill attachment doesn't seem to be doing much lapping

[moizeau]

This is from a genuine Kwak Z1100 manual

[Skull]

Cheers Pete 2 more 'tools' I don't have ... Kawasaki's and ...

I don't have a dial guage either

There's not much room for error there ....

The valve lapping tool is poo(r) ...I remember better *suckers playing cowboys and indians when I was a kid

*Not a euphemism moizeau

[CitroJim]

Here's what you need Gary:

From a 1920s motorcycle book I have...

[Stickyfinger]

A good way to add in another check is to get the valves nice and warm (oven) and see if they stick then...esp the exhaust ones....simulates a cold engine.

[Skull]

Almost done lapping .... takes a fair while even on an 8 valve
Valve Lapping Drill Attachment

£9 EBay bit naff but saved me some effort/time

Skull's - Valve collection patiently waiting for lubed lap dance ...

Intake Valves earlier photo ^^^^ seemed to have more gunk built up on the back of them but the seats cleaned up easier, 3-5 application of fine lapping paste.

Exhaust Valves had more pitting on the valve seats and took 3 appications of coarse grade and 3 fine grade lapping paste.

That was with the drill attachment and they're looking reasonable now - hope I haven't overdone them

I'm going to do a fine grade, final hand-lap today just to get more of a 'feel' and also hear the surface match.

I'm under no illusion that there will still be Valve leakage but my intention has always been to improve what I had at the minimal expense .... I'm not recommending anyone else to use this approach but the valves are around £16 each plus I've still got to take the tiny chip out of the camshaft it makes the reconditioned cylinder head route (£275 inc recon camshaft already fitted) quite attractive especially if it's your only car and you need it back on the road ASAP.

Recon route would also require checking/measuring piston crown protrusion/deck height to calculate the correct thickness of head gasket required

Anyway here they are

BEFORE

Skull's - HDi Exhaust Valve - before lapping

AFTER

Skull's - HDi Exhaust Valve - after lapping

...soon ...soon be rebuild time

[CitroJim]

Excellent work and progress Gary

[Skull]

Cheers Jim

Progress stalled as I've got compatability issues .... The one I ordered was listed on Ebay as compatible for "Xantia 2.0 HDi (110)
Note Engine Number from: 8332"


BGA Gasket Set HN5378
OE: 9569752780 Can anyone confirm this number

Skull's - HDi Gasket Set HN5378

Mine is
ENGINE (RHZ) DYBQ4012843 (DW10ATED) Doesn't really compute with their Engine note
Unless they are refering to my ORGA number which is:
BUILT (ORGA 8296)

I couldn't really see a difference initially until I pulled the first old one off and thought I'd ripped it in half

Skull's - HDi Valve Stem Oil Seal

The oneS received in the kit has different valve stem seals as seen here:

Skull's - HDi New supplied and old seals

Contacted the Ebay seller but they're quite vauge, just saying to check my original for part numbers - despite the obvious difference in size (same photos supplied)

I can make out some of the part no. on the seal but it's tiny and I can't decide where it starts these are the bits:
"7161" "BER 886 V(or N)W" "ø6P"
IF anyone can make any sense of that I will be impressed ....

I wonder if they are on about the OE part No. 9569752780

[NOTE: My cylinder head part no. 9633750210]

[Rhothgar]

Cheers Jim

Progress stalled as I've got compatability issues .... The one I ordered was listed on Ebay as compatible for "Xantia 2.0 HDi (110)
Note Engine Number from: 8332"


BGA Gasket Set HN5378
OE: 9569752780 Can anyone confirm this number




Mine is
ENGINE (RHZ) DYBQ4012843 (DW10ATED) Doesn't really compute with their Engine note
Unless they are refering to my ORGA number which is:
BUILT (ORGA 8296)

I couldn't really see a difference initially until I pulled the first old one off and thought I'd ripped it in half



The oneS received in the kit has different valve stem seals as seen here:



Contacted the Ebay seller but they're quite vauge, just saying to check my original for part numbers - despite the obvious difference in size (same photos supplied)

I can make out some of the part no. on the seal but it's tiny and I can't decide where it starts these are the bits:
"7161" "BER 886 V(or N)W" "ø6P"
IF anyone can make any sense of that I will be impressed ....

I wonder if they are on about the OE part No. 9569752780

[NOTE: My cylinder head part no. 9633750210]

A jeweller's loupe always comes in handy for those of us who are visually challenged ie no longer have 20/20 vision.

I'd send back personally. They clearly don't look right. Autodoc is your friend for correct parts. Trying to think of the good brand - Reinz?

EDIT: Victor Reinz.

And yes your engine is RHZ. Have they sent you RHY? I'd doubt the internals would be different. It's just the intercooler and some other guff that gives the 19bhp increase.

[Skull]

Cheers Rothgar

I will try to find a compatible one today on Autodoc ....

A few hours later .....

BGA Head Gasket Set HN5395 looks to have the shorter valve stem seals I need

Construction Year to: 12 / 2001
Engine Number to: 8331 (I'm guessing this relates to my ORGA number 8296 CJ rather than the engine number though)

Just trying to organise an exchange with the Ebay seller ....

[Rhothgar]

Skull.

Please do me an urgent favour if you don't mind.

Remove the orange 2 pin connector from the top of your diesel pump in the engine bay and measure the resistance across the two pins carefully and let me know the reading. I have a P1135 fault. The actuator seems to actuate using a mate's Snap-on Verus but it stops actuating after 12 seconds. I suspect the windings have an intermittent fault. Knowing the resistance may well rule it out for me and then it can only be the command instructions in the ECU chip!!!

[Skull]

Skull.

Please do me an urgent favour if you don't mind......

Remember electrickery is not my favourite subject

Rothgar

I'm not getting a steady reading it flashes to various numbers before going back to 1 ...any help

EDIT: I've had a few goes and the various numbers may be when my probes touch each other ...

ANOTHER EDIT: 2000 Ohms setting = 23 steady

[Rhothgar]

Skull.

Please do me an urgent favour if you don't mind......

Remember electrickery is not my favourite subject

Rothgar

I'm not getting a steady reading it flashes to various numbers before going back to 1 ...any help

EDIT: I've had a few goes and the various numbers may be when my probes touch each other ...

ANOTHER EDIT: 2000 Ohms setting = 23 steady

That's bang on! Thank you.

Mine measures 23 Ohms too and the solenoid graphs changes to fuel pressure when manually actuated.

I now know that the ECU is probably the most likely culprit. Just tracing Pin 80 (which is the earth to the solenoid at the ECU back internally...). Very complex and beyond me. I am just looking at the old shot ECU I have. Pin 80 traces back to Pin 4 of an Infineon TLE 4226G chip which in turn traces back to Pin 23 of the Infineon B59233 chip which is P7.4/CC28IO... Not sure what it all means just yet but that pin can either give outputs or receive inputs. My money is on it being the pin that switches the earth to the 3rd piston solenoid but that's about as far as I can go. I guess I would have to somehow rig it up so that it would pull low on imitating a running engine. There will be a pin that needs to be rigged up as if the engine is doing 800rpm and I have no clue how to achieve that but I am going to be doing some reading up to see if I can learn more and work out what I would need to do.

That info you have given is mighty useful. HDi owners UNITE!!!!

[CitroJim]

Hope you can sort this Roger. I admire your happiness to dive deep into the ECU to try to resolve this You may be overthinking it though and your hunch of an intermittent winding is most likely the cause...

Those little solenoids can measure Ok when de-energised and then fail after being energised for a while before appearing to return to normal when they've had a bit of a rest.

HDi owners UNITE!!!!

And may iDH owners UNTIE!!!