Rd45 dimensions and compatibility questions

[darbuck]

Hi All, can anyone tell me if there is a dimension difference between the rd45 in say a c8 for example and the he x7 and would they be compatible with either car assuming you have the kit of course? I w currently have an android head unit and I hate it.i have as replacement binacle for the monochrome to accommodate the screen because I had to alter the original part to make the android fit

[mickthemaverick]

If you read this thread Darren I think you may get an answer from Marc's posts.

[the-termin8r]

The RD45 is a standard 1 DIN unit so should be a direct fit. The only one that won't be a direct fit is that one I linked to you in the other thread yesterday. That one is meant for a Chinese facelift C5 so has a wider front panel, you'd just need to Dremel off the the "wings" on the panel and it'll go straight in.

[darbuck]

Ok thanks lads I just don't want to buy one and discover it won't go in. It wouldn't be the first time. I'll let you know how I get on.

[xantia_v6]

There are 2 different panel widths, depending on which model car the RD45 was intended for, there are also versions with single or twin antenna inputs. The twin antenna versions are fairly scarce.

[darbuck]

Yes that's why I am asking about dimensions, I also have the twin fakra setup so I have found an rd45 kit with everything on it but I can't see the dimensions of it. I have asked the seller, he asked me for a photo of my centre console. I've sent it and await the response.

[darbuck]

Hi all, is there some sort of a PCB in the usb box for the rd45 stereo. Mine didn't come with the usb box. Everything else except the usb box came with it and works well apart from the usb I have power going to the cable I can charge phone with it but I can't get a usb drive to work with it. Is there a PCB decoder built into the box.

[the-termin8r]

USB box? The RD45 has native USB support, it should be a grey, rectangular, 4 pin, connector between the Fakra and Quadlock connectors.

[darbuck]

Hi Rob, thanks for coming back to me. the cable came with the radio it just doesn't have the bit that goes into the arm rest port in the centre console. So are you saying there is no decoder in the arm rest socket that looks like a cigar. lighter.

[the-termin8r]

The armrest socket is purely passive, they're literally just some pins on a small PCB and the main housing acts as part of the mechanical connector. There's no processing whatsoever in the socket. I just went back and re-read your other post, looks like I misunderstood slightly. The RD45 is a bit picky regarding what USB sticks it will read, I made a short post about my findings about a year ago. You might just be running into USB stick compatibility issues.

[darbuck]

Ok thanks Rob I'll try one of the ones you had

[darbuck]

Hi Rob, what way did you route the microphone and I take it the jack is if you have a phone kit

[the-termin8r]

The mic was a huge faff. My procedure was as follows:

As a side note, the procedures I'm listing are all from memory from a couple of years ago, so I'd recommend looking up some videos too.

1. Remove the HU and the cubby below.
2. Remove the fascia with the screen
3. Remove the side panel of the dash on the passenger side
4. Remove the tweeter. Be gentle with this as the plastic gets brittle and can crack. The tweeter is held in by 3 vertical, plastic, clips which are a pain.
5. Remove the A-pillar trim. Start at the bottom and unclip it up the pillar. Don't immediately yank it out though. The top has a pair of "fingers" that go up into the headliner. When you have the bottom of the trim loose, pull it out a bit and then slide the whole trim down the pillar as far as possible.
6. Remove the roof console. The light cluster has to come out first, then there's a pair of Torx screws. After that you have to pull really hard to release the two clips holding the console in. If memory serves, it has a similar pair of fingers to the pillar trim that go into the headliner. This is by far the hardest step as those clips hold on ridiculously well. When they finally let go they let go very suddenly. I actually knocked my mirror off in the process. Also watch out for the ribbon cable for the ambient lights when you do pull it off.
6b. If you do knock your mirror off, it's on a bayonet-style system. There's going to be a metal hexagon on the windscreen with irregular sides and a claw on the mirror's neck. The short sides of the hexagon go in the gaps of the claw and then you give it a firm twist.
7. Remove the blanking clip in the mic slot and fit the mic. Route the cable so that it comes out at the front on the passenger side of the console.
8. Reclip the roof console. Don't fully refit it in case you need to pull it off again for some reason.
9. There's a small gap between the headliner and the roof at the top of the windscreen. Route the cable along there until you reach the pillar. I had to remove the felt tape from my cable as it reeked of cigarette smoke (it was packed in the same box as the smoked HU). I don't know if it will fit in the gap with the tape but it's worth a shot.
10. Then just route it down the pillar and through the dash until you reach the Quadlock connector for the HU.
11. Test everything before sealing up
11. Refit the pillar trim, tweeter and side panel on the dash. When doing the trim, start at the top with the fingers obviously.
12. Refit whatever's left at this point.

_____

For the jack, I actually just used the pre-wired RCAs in the glove box from my RD4, I just can't remember if I had to shuffle the pins around on the Quadlock connector. I'm going off memory, but I think this was one of the threads I went through before doing my upgrade. I think it had pinouts of both the RD4 and 45. I went overkill and designed my own cup holder and routed the USB and TRS to there. I had separate connectors as opposed to the combined lighter-socket style cluster. To go from the RCAs to the TRS I bought an adaptor and filed a slot on the RCA connector housing and routed the adaptor cable back to under the HU.

If you want to actually use the connector in the front armrest that's doable too. There's a bit of a catch though, you need an armrest liner with a corresponding hole (part number 7591J3). You can either try to source one (I'm open to trading my holed one for your non-holed one). Or you could do the easier thing and just bodge a hole in yourself.

Routing to the armrest requires more disassembly. Which is as follows:

1. Remove the under-radio cubby
2. Remove the HU
3. Remove the trim panel on the transmission tunnel. The process for this depends on your suspension. You'll have to use YouTube for the regular suspension but for H3+ it's as follows:
- - -
A. Remove the suspension buttons, start prying from the front of the panel and hinge it up in the same direction that the armrest lid opens. No need to unplug it, you can rotate it a bit and thread it through its own hole into the tunnel
B. If you can fit, stick your hand into the hole and push the frame of the gear stick gaiter up from the bottom. Once you unclip the gaiter, turn is slightly and put it through its own hole too.
C. Start to pry up the main panel from the suspension control hole and work your way forward. It's held in by multiple clips around its perimeter, clips similar to the ones in the roof console. You'll probably have to unplug the lighter socket when you get to the front
- - -
4. Open the armrest and remove the rubber liner if you haven't got one with a hole.
4b. Bodge the hole in.
5. With the liner in place, route the cables through the hole from inside the armrest and clip the connectors in place.
6. Route the cable through the transmission tunnel to the HU
7. Test everything before sealing up.
7. Put everything back. The main tunnel trim has to go in first and the under radio cubby has to go in last as it goes over the tunnel trim.

[darbuck]

Thanks for the detailed write up very helpful. I will do the mic I have bought a usb unit which fits where the cigar lighter goes with a fight which is why I was asking about the possibility of a PCB in the OEM part to rule out the need to fit it. I want to avoid drilling holes unnecessarily. So won't need to remove armrest hole for usb. sounds like a weekend battle for the mic. I'll let you know how I get on. As for the aux I think I will just bound it up I really just want the usb and the aux sounds like a bit of a pain for something I will probably never use.

[the-termin8r]

Another option is to route the sockets into the cubby under the radio with any 3D printing. Just pull out the liner and there are some holes in the back big enough for the cables. You can leave the socket cluster loose in the cubby, though it will probably rattle around.