Change DPF yourself

[perfidus]

Yes @shtu, these are also my thoughts.
I was too confident that the replacement DPF will be clean enough to run for a few hundreds of miles even without regen, till the other problems will be sorted (software restoration, Eolys refill etc). That was not the case.

I was testing again today the additive pipe priming process, set the Diagbox to run the tank replacement procedure, the same message appears (First additive not started) but the pump was ticking in two rounds of about 3 minutes regardless of the Diagbox response. Then I reset the additive quantity again (refill procedure) to show 2620000 ml.
After starting the engine and let it run for a few minutes, I heard again the ticking of the pump shortly after ignition off. Only for about three seconds.
And it's first time I see the message "First additive status: Action terminated" instead "In progress" in Exhaust Line Information 2 page (see attached)
Thats good news, I guess. Bad news is the high differential pressure (25 mbar at idle with EGR at 30% and 50 mbar with EGR closed). Next stop, DPF deep cleaning.

[shtu]

Next stop, DPF deep cleaning.

I've written about that before. It's not difficult, just messy.

[perfidus]

Update for my Citroen Jumper 2.0 Blue HDI.
Today I managed to deep-clean the DPF, off vehicle. A lot of reddish ash comes out. After fitting the DPF back to the van the differential pressure results are 5-6mbar at idle, 16 mbar at 2500 rpm and 25 mbar at 3000rpm. With Diagbox: replacement procedure for DPF and NOx catalyst completed.
So now I'm starting fresh with zero grams of soot, the right (original) engine software and waiting for a >200Km trip around the house hoping for the first passive regeneration to take place and to check again the results. With that I'll close the first chapter and move to the next: the Adblue system.

Take away note: never trust a second hand part seller, if they tell you that the part you are buying is from a low mileage car damaged in an accident. If I knew that the DPF was running over 150.000km (that's the estimated mileage for the amount of ash in the filter), first I would have done the cleaning and after that I would restore the software to original.
Doing the opposite forced me to waste time with taking out and fitting again the DPF, a not so easy task for a DIY-er.

[shtu]

Today I managed to deep-clean the DPF, off vehicle. A lot of reddish ash comes out. After fitting the DPF back to the van the differential pressure results are 5-6mbar at idle, 16 mbar at 2500 rpm and 25 mbar at 3000rpm. With Diagbox: replacement procedure for DPF and NOx catalyst completed.
So now I'm starting fresh with zero grams of soot, the right (original) engine software and waiting for a >200Km trip around the house hoping for the first passive regeneration to take place and to check again the results.

Pressure figures sound good, looks like you're on the right track. Filthy job, but it's the only way.

If you want hours of DPF-fixing fun, I'd recommend https://www.youtube.com/@ORileysAutos/videos , the sheer number of DPF problems he fixes that have been to garages, had forced regens, had new parts fitted, been declared writeoffs, etc., is just astonishing. It shows most mechanics haven't the first clue what they're doing.

[perfidus]

Just checked my ODO-meter reading and compared it with the one taken when I deep-clean the DPF, it's been 1474 km. The average distance between last 10 regenerations (i think there was only three of them and initial value was 500Km) is 475,4 Km, soot grams reading is 3,8 g and distance travelled from the last regeneration is 151,1 Km. DPF pressure is normal, about 6 mbar at idle.
So nice! The "new" DPF system seems all good until now.

[shtu]

The soot figure will (should) go up and down depending how far away from a regen cycle it is.

All those figures sound good. Well done!