Lanolin, Waxoil, or..........

[Sloppysod]

As the title of this thread, what's going to be the best and easiest to apply.?
Thoughts please?

[PaulC5]

Where are you thinking of applying it ? Years ago I used waxoil on a car in sills, in doors and underneath, easy enough to apply but in hot weather it would melt and drip out. Smells for a long time as well.

[Stickyfinger]

Lanolin.............Washes off and needs constant yearly reapplication, no "rust killing" additives. etc
Waxoil.............Thick, does not "creep", poor long term life/cracks/allowing water penetration, forms "water dams" in box sections resulting in serious damage... etc

Use Bilt & Hamber or Dinitrol type products. no etc

[mickthemaverick]

I have my own two stage method which has served me well over the years, described briefly here.

[Gibbo2286]

Lanolin was always the prevent treatment for battery terminals to stop acid creep and corrosion.

[bobins]

If it's already rusty, then my tame MOT bod tells me every year just to use old engine oil on the chassis !

[Sloppysod]

Cheers for the feed back, looks like stay away from waxoil, due to cracky finish, not happy with having to annually retreat the lanolin.
May now look into the old spray underseal(bitumin), as it sticks like you-know-what! But it's rather messy to apply - or it's just me!

[Hell Razor5543]

Well, post 5 might be worth reading;

viewtopic.php?t=52875

[bobins]

I wouldn't use an underseal or schutz type gloop unless the underside is completely free from rust or even a hint of rust as the underseal would just hide the rust problem whilst it grows. Even treating it with the usual rust treatments won't really cure the problem, merely slowing it for a year or so. I've heard very good things about painting it with POR15(?) which sets harder than a very hard thing and has its uses when it comes to dealing with rust.

[wurlycorner]

I wouldn't use an underseal or schutz type gloop unless the underside is completely free from rust or even a hint of rust as the underseal would just hide the rust problem whilst it grows. Even treating it with the usual rust treatments won't really cure the problem, merely slowing it for a year or so. I've heard very good things about painting it with POR15(?) which sets harder than a very hard thing and has its uses when it comes to dealing with rust.

That is all true.
POR15 is outrageously expensive though. If going for a paint, good ol' Hammerite is brilliant - been around so long that most people tend to forget about it these days! I use the smooth satin black and the spray can gives brilliant finish.

If going for spray on non-paint products, totally agree with Sticky - Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber products are the best (personally I use Dinitrol).
Way back in the day I did Waxoyl in all the cavities on one of my CXs and a Sunny and it dried and cracked after a few years - not happy.

[Sloppysod]

Re, Dinitrol
Just like at their website, the problem is see is, yes they can supply a Kit, but it's expensive! Especially as I'm not sure how much I will use.
I'm thinking more thinking to do!

[mickthemaverick]

I'd agree with Iain that Hammerite is a good way to go and you can use their Kurust on any bad corrosion, then follow up with their paint for a total cost of around £40. I use the ones I posted earlier because I tried them on my bike frames in the 60s and have never had an issue warranting a change!!

[wurlycorner]

Re, Dinitrol
Just like at their website, the problem is see is, yes they can supply a Kit, but it's expensive! Especially as I'm not sure how much I will use.
I'm thinking more thinking to do!

You can buy Dinitrol in aerosols. That's what I use (predominantly) though I do also have a schultz kit - but only because in my workshop barn I have a compressed air supply set up, else I wouldn't...

[CitroJim]

I've tried Lanolin stuff. Pointless really - it washes off... Lesson learned...

I find Bilt Hamber products to be good.