206cc to a 308cc How ? Why ? Everything 308cc

[Huskyxantia]

Brake pad clips .

When i serviced the 308cc brakes several months back the front discs and pads came with the clips the pads sit in in the set which was great as the ones on it were a little worse for wear, they only clip in so no big deal, the caliper bolts 13mm were ok to undo so that gave me the reassurance the previous owner did look after the car. How ever the clips when removed did sort of fall to bits . Lucky a new set was added to the disc and pad sets.

How ever these new ones were coated in a black Ruberised plastic which did give me cause for concern as to leave or try get it off , however they were fitted with it still on . A few weeks ago I was hearing pad score noise so I cleaned three corners leaving my driver side as I ran out of time not being to bothered by having one left to do because I was using the 207. So after yesterday's full cambelt kit changed ( and bottom crankshaft pulley) I then decided to clean the brakes on my side front, the inner pad was stuck the black rubbish coating on the clips had melted too. Wire wheel on cordless drill and a nice clean looking caliper was the end result, even managed to get the rest of that black stuff of the clips , refitting the pads to reveals the inner pad lips were slighly thicker so off to the vice and some file work to slim this edge down a tad, once that was done grease was used were needed and the pad slid in easy.
The photos with this post show the black stuff I'm talking about .
I'd suggested if you ever get these clips and they are coated with it , remove it it might be fiddly or it might not but I'd definitely get rid of it. Yet another stupid idea on a small car part that plays a very important roll in your cars braking system and performance.

[MattBLancs]

That's very odd, the variants of those clips I've come across have all been thin stainless steel. Also strange I've not come across the pads coming with a new set (only the bolts - and they are sporadic if included or not (I have bought them separately in the past after having to reuse them before too))

If came coated I'd probably leave it be, might be intended as a "dry lube" of some form to help the pads to move.

The stainless ones I've encountered have been given a little (wire brush then) coating of white ceramic brake grease

[Huskyxantia]

It was from a place away from Ebay, it was a bundle deal on bank holiday next time I come across these deals I will pop a link up here it was a deal that saved me about 48 pounds . Ive used the white ceramic grease yesterday so hope that helps .

I was going to ask what grease was best and were it was used ?

[MattBLancs]

Copper grease used to be slapped liberally on most things, but my understanding is we should use the ceramic brake grease on e.g. pad to caliper contact points; but for other areas with rubber or plastic we should instead use "red rubber grease" e.g. caliper slider pins with those little boots.

I'm still in favour of copper grease between brake disk and wheel (particularly with alloy wheels to discourage them sticking) an. I also put Sims on wheel bolts too (mixed opinions on doing that?)

[mickthemaverick]

I always found copper grease eased the pain in my life when applied to the MIL's brake discs!

[Huskyxantia]

True about the copper grease many a road wheel bolt ive slapped that around the threads , and it's a nice surprise when you take ownership of another car and they did the same , the red grease is ideal for them slider pins . What about the blue stuff ? Similar to the red its like a dark color

[MattBLancs]

the red grease is ideal for them slider pins . What about the blue stuff ? Similar to the red its like a dark color

Is that for staunch Everton fans who can't bring themselves to use the red stuff?


I don't know anything about the blue stuff - will have a read up on it!

[MattBLancs]

I don't know anything about the blue stuff - will have a read up on it!

Morris Lubricants has this to say about it:

K323 PREMIUM BLUE GREASE

Description:
K323 is an extremely sophisticated lithium/calcium base grease which incorporates modern polymer technology. This advanced grease has a high level of water tolerance, mechanical stability and adherence. K323 has exceptional load carrying ability and will cope with constant high levels of loads and shock loading. Its wide application temperature range makes it ideal for a multitude of what are normally considered difficult applications, especially in both fresh and salt water saturated environments or where rubbing surfaces tend to remove ordinary grease coatings.

Features:
High degree of water resistance.
Good corrosion resistance protects components operating in wet conditions.
Excellent EP and anti-wear performance.
Applications:
K323 is recommended for automotive, agricultural, industrial and marine applications where such items as high loads, water wash out and abrasive wear have been a recognised problem. K323 has proven itself in heavily loaded trailer bearings and provides continued protection in wheel ‘lock up’ situations under harsh braking, allowing for timely bearing inspection, and therefore reducing the likelihood of damage or failure in use. K323 is also ideal for vibratory bearings on compacting equipment and as a chuck grease provides exceptional lubricating properties and resistance to wash off by water based cutting fluids.
As with all greases used for the first time, check compatibility with the grease applied previously and if necessary purge prior to application. Likewise, as a general rule, take care not to over-lubricate and apply the quantity of grease recommended by the manufacturer.

https://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.u ... rease.html

Despite having 3 trailers at present I have no dedicated trailer bearing grease!

[Huskyxantia]

Well that blue stuffs what you need then

[Huskyxantia]

Small job this weekend and a wonderful mix different then should be sized nuts and bolt heads ! Here's the symptoms .
So full lock followed by a bonk. Near side front.what I did , Car up wheel off and undo them 2 nut and bolts holding the carrier hub to leg, then up to the top wizz off with rattle gun top 21mm nut , back down to the leg, off with the drop link nuts and bolts off leg and lower the leg out the way, problem found , top mount nut was lose the19mm nut of the threaded shock absorber piston rod. So hex piece in place with rachet and a19mm spanner and away we go 96nm which is easy to gauge for me it's at the point where you go arrhhhhggghhh .. done. So everything put back the way it came off wheel back on car tested and bonk now gone

[Huskyxantia]

Whoossh now and again opening my fuel cap to refuel ihave a whoosh sound when the tank is low. Ive today take the wheel arch liner off jet washed thunder side then found filler neck this was fine there is no way water can enter the system as the main filler is a closed unit and any over fill runs down the secondary pipe and into the tank. The actual vacuum one way valve is according to Google inside the tank? So all is back on and no problem there the small drain hole in the filler cap area runs to the ground away from everything else

[Huskyxantia]

Refilled last night , no sound when the cap came off , Outside temperature was about 18°.

[Huskyxantia]

Rear off side wheelarch liner has 5 push fit clips and three rather big round screw on type to body pins once they are carefully removed and the liner removed you will see the fuel intake pipe work and just hiw much dirty these liners do not stop is shocking ! Maybe this job could be done once a year to clean the under arches properly

[MattBLancs]

Rear off side wheelarch liner has 5 push fit clips and three rather big round screw on type to body pins once they are carefully removed and the liner removed you will see the fuel intake pipe work and just hiw much dirty these liners do not stop is shocking ! Maybe this job could be done once a year to clean the under arches properly

Yes, gets a good build up. "Car compost" - I'm not sure how many years worth of build up I find, but in most cases it's usually obvious it's not the first time the arch liner has been off (i.e. clips are missing!) but having said that - the sort of person who can't be bothered to replace missing clips = unlikely to bother cleaning out anything either!

[Huskyxantia]

the sort of person who can't be bothered to replace missing clips = unlikely to bother cleaning out anything either!

Very true these clips are found online ive even seem them at boot sales to and have grabbed a few as a put them away in them little bits and bobs or wot not draws always there when needed, and to be honest removing the liner and a good wash and brush up plus some tin worm treatment always goes down well on a calm autum day with the much helped cuppa .