Had some bad luck on my vacation, after the car was parked for a week at my grandmother's while I went down to Stockholm to fix/service her Renault scenic.
Then the car went like a bag of nuts when I turned onto the B-road, had to turn back.
Reading with my Thinkcar dongle gave these error codes: (corrected for PSA language, thanks Habbe)
P0489 Electric EGR valve position copy signal : Opening of the valve too great
P1459 Electric EGR valve position copy signal : EGR valve confirmed jammed closed
P1728 CAN communication : Torque information not valid. Accelerator pedal signal absent
P0490 Electric EGR valve position copy signal : Insufficient opening of the valve
P1162 Electric EGR valve position copy signal : Valve jammed during driving
Recurring after deletion
P1161 Mixer butterfly position copy signal : Butterfly jammed while driving
P2111 Mixer butterfly position copy signal : Butterfly stuck during post operation
"Shot from the hip" and guessed tired EGR, it has been on there for at least 20k miles (car has 45)
Ordered a new EGR from a local auto parts company, 3500kr until the next day is still OK when the mechanic took 5000
Started dismantling, but felt that it was a bit much to do in a flat garage..
Remembered the classic Mcgyver solution, block the EGR pipe with a piece of a coke can!
Went up and stole a can from the deposit bag and a pair of scissors, made double layers just in case
Wentt out for a test drive, now the car ran fine but with a check engine light! Oh well, that'll do.
Then it ran fine for the remaining 2400km on vacation, mostly with the check engine light off. But the ESP light usually comes on because of error codes in the engine computer, it put an error code that it can't regulate engine torque..
Today I replaced the EGR which went pretty well except for a nasty exhaust leak from the pipe between the manifold and the EGR cooler.
Now it put another error code
P0406 Electric EGR valve position copy signal : voltage too highBut I deleted it and the car ran fine without a check engine light for the twenty minute drive home..
Put it away because of the exhaust leak and took Xantian instead
So the replacement then? There is no description on the Service box.
You need to remove the Commonrail, loosen the injector pipes, the vacuum pipes (three next to the EGR pipe and one at the timing belt cover) and the hoses for the crankcase ventilation. To remove the "valve cover" with the crankcase ventilation built in, after this you have quite good access to the EGR package with cooler and valve. Then you can remove the EGR pipe. On mine, the package was with two nuts and a screw and the clamp against the manifold, I had to unscrew the stud bolt that was on top of the valve. It has a torx socket but it worked with a 4mm socket. The lower screw on the valve only needs to be loosened a little as the mounting hole is U-shaped. Then it is quite clear how it is connected.
The hard part is getting the new clamp to the EGR cooler in place, the old one could not be used but the snap-on attachment did not hold tightly.
It took about 1 hour to get the new one screwed in and it still didn't hold tight, but I think it might be the pipe between the EGR cooler and the manifold that cracked.
Tools needed:
A good tool kit
A 1/4" bit socket
5mm hex bit with ball
Inspection mirror
A good headlamp is a good idea
WD40 or similar
Silicone spray
A good polygrip
