Citroen Xanita V6 Help needed Please

[co04pow]

Hi,

It has been a very long time since I have been on this forum, I am looking for some help regarding my Xantia V6.

Very long story short it has been off the road since March 2011 and stored in my fathers garage.

For the first 4/5 years I would start it up every few months.

I since moved away and it fell by the wayside. So hasn't been started for approximately 8/9 years.

I am now back and want to get it on the road again, I put 10 litres of fuel in it and it turns over but will not fire up.

Any advise on where to start/list of things to look at would be much appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

Owen

[CitroJim]

Hi Owen and welcome back

Excellent to hear a V6 is being resurrected

First things to do is check for fuel and spark. Can you hear the fuel pump run briefly when you first turn on the ignition?

Check you have fuel in the rail by very carefully depressing the Schrader valve and covering it with a rag just after ignition switch-on.

Is the immobiliser warning light out?

Check for a spark if fuel seems to be present although admittedly, it's not easy. The rear bank plugs are the easiest to get to for such a test.

The engine bay fuse box is a known source of this very problem on the V6..

With the aid of the wiring diagrams - should be available here on the forum or I may still have them - will vastly assist diagnosis..

All the best with this and keep us posted

[co04pow]

Jim,

Thank you for the speedy reply, I will let you know how I get on.

Thanks

Owen

[CitroJim]

That's great Owen Also, I know how much rodents love nibbling Citroen wiring looms so that's something else to check. They seem especially partial to injector wiring

[co04pow]

Jim,

Managed to get down to the car yesterday.

Is the immobiliser warning light out?

I take it this is the square with a key symbol in the rev counter? If so this is going out.

Check you have fuel in the rail by very carefully depressing the Schrader valve and covering it with a rag just after ignition switch-on

So, I depressed the Schrader valve, and fuel came out, but it smelt old, I emptied it and tried the ignition again and depressed it again and no fuel, couldn’t hear the pump running. Also, no voltage at under bonnet 10-amp fuse 9 for fuel pump relay. So, I ran a piece of cable from positive lead on the battery to terminal 2 on the fuel pump. With ignition on the fuel pump runs. Depressed again and have fresh fuel at the rail.

Check for a spark if fuel seems to be present although admittedly, it's not easy. The rear bank plugs are the easiest to get to for such a test.

Only check I had time for spark wise was to check if the feed to the coil pack at the rear bank which had 12 Volts

So, what would be stopping the fuel pump from running when ignition is turned on, fuse box problem?

Thanks in advance

Owen

[xantia_v6]

Just to be sure that there is no confusion, the fuel pump only runs for a second or two when the ignition is switched on, and then runs again when the engine is cranked by the starter.

The fuel pump relay is one of the black plastic oblong things in the ECU box, and is energised by the ECU.

It wouldn't hurt to disconnect and reconnect the battery again, as I have known the ECU to get into a strange state after many attempts at starting.

[co04pow]

Been working nightshift for three months so haven't had a chance to get to the car.

Going down this weekend coming.

So ideally I am listening to the fuel pump and or checking the voltage when the ignition is switched on and then also when cranking the starter?

Can you advise next steps if this is or not happening so I can investigate further when there.

Thanks in advance.

Owen

[xantia_v6]

With the back seat lifted and the rubber cover removed, you should hear the fuel pump rum for about 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on. If you dont hear it, check for voltage on the wires to the pump. If there is no voltage at the pump, go back to the "double relay" 1304 in the ECU box and check there for voltages.

Here is the wiring diagram of the fuel injection, the fuel pump is at the bottom left of the diagram.



If the pump seems to be working, then you need to work out if you have spark.

[co04pow]

Hi,

Got down to the car today and checked the following:

Ignition switched on:

Cannot hear fuel pump running

Fuel pump pin 2 0.29V

Under bonnet fuses 9 - 0V

Relay 1304

Pin 2 - 0V
Pin 6 - 0V
Pin 7 - 0V
Pin 8 - 12.2V
Pin 9 - 0V
Pin 10 - 0V
Pin 11 - 12.2V
Pin 12 - 12.2V
Pin 13 - 6.2V
Pin 14 - 12.2V


Relay 1307

Pin - OV
Pin 2 - 12.2V
Pin 4 - 0V
Pin 6 - 0V
Pin 7 - 0V
Pin 8 - 12.2V
Pin 9 - 0V
Pin 10 - 0V
Pin 11 - 12.2V
Pin 13 - 4.6V
Pin 14 - 10V
Pin 15 - 10V

So looks like voltage into both relays but not out the other side?

I tried swapping the relays as the look like the same one but no difference

Replace relays ?

next steps would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Owen

[xantia_v6]

Are you aware that the fuel pump is only energised for one second when the ignition is turned on and then again when the engine is cranked or running.

[co04pow]

Yes you mentioned this before, No voltage at the pump when engine cranked either

[co04pow]

Should i check the voltages at the relay pin while the engine is being cranked.

Thanks

Owen

[xantia_v6]

Should i check the voltages at the relay pin while the engine is being cranked.

Yes, but before you go there...

Your voltage test results seem to show that there is no voltage on pin 2 of relay 1304, which should be coming from F2 which is fed direct from the battery, so should always have voltage. That is worth tracking down.

[co04pow]

s**t

wrote them down the wrong way!

Relay 1307

Pin 2 - 0V
Pin 6 - 0V
Pin 7 - 0V
Pin 8 - 12.2V
Pin 9 - 0V
Pin 10 - 0V
Pin 11 - 12.2V
Pin 12 - 12.2V
Pin 13 - 6.2V
Pin 14 - 12.2V


Relay 1304

Pin - OV
Pin 2 - 12.2V
Pin 4 - 0V
Pin 6 - 0V
Pin 7 - 0V
Pin 8 - 12.2V
Pin 9 - 0V
Pin 10 - 0V
Pin 11 - 12.2V
Pin 13 - 4.6V
Pin 14 - 10V
Pin 15 - 10V

[xantia_v6]

Your results are indicating a faulty relay 1304, as you have 12V across the coil (pins 2 and 10) which should energise the relay coil. You have voltage on pin 11 but not pins 1 or 9. Those relays are usually pretty reliable.

Here are the harness diagrams that go with the wiring diagram I posted earlier. Note that the 10PR harness (which runs under the radiator) is well known for having wires fail from internal corrosion.