2.0hdi non start

[Rhothgar]

As Gibbo says you need to try and get the car to run on Easy Start. Once it fires, keep doing regular squirts to keep it running until the fuel pulls through.

Separate matter. You could disconnect the injectors electrically and crank and see if pressure builds then.

[Stickyfinger]

WD 40 or similar is better as it has some lube in it (or if you have to mix up the squirts)....Easy Start will/can "wash out" the cylinders.

[Mick c]

Thanks again for all the replies fellas . I have seen a couple of videos relating to the fault I have and both have been electrical faults from bsi to ecu .
I reckon once I find the dodgy wire or connection it will fire up on brake cleaner and run . Tried getting a mobile auto electrician but no luck as yet . Going to try and remove ECU today and see what that shows up ?. It's never been of before so may be corrosion there causing the problem. They do look like a pain to get to with the metal cradle ?.

[Rhothgar]

Not sure how yours is fixed but mine just slides up. Metal plate just located it in the box on mine. Maybe yours is different.

I had corrosion issues on mine but only because the bonnet was left open by others for 6 months following heavy rain back in 2020 I think it was. Mine had corroded through pin 88. It’s all documented in here. Of course, corrosion can happen anywhere.

[Mick c]

Hi , the ecu plugs are all.good to look at . I was hoping there would be an obvious problem there but no joy lol . I have ordered a few bits and a probe to help with diagnosis over the weekend. Weather permitting?. Looking on the wiring info on here I can't see how I can put together a diagram to work to as I'm not really up on this . I can't get a local mobile auto electrician so need to carry out as many checks as I can ?. Can anybody point me to a diagram for the comms and canbus connections from bsi to ecu ?. Ideally I could put those up on my laptop and work my way through it . Evan if someone knows the pins to check for lives and earth's this would be a great help . Thanks again for all the input

[Rhothgar]

Dare I ask what probe you have bought exactly?

You really need to avoid going too deep into the rabbit hole if you don’t understand electrics. I have the proper official workshop manuals and I sometimes go down the wrong path.

You have a pressure reading and it appears to be too low. Whilst waiting for the probe, I’d have the battery on charge so that you have a fully charged battery for testing.

I say it can be a rabbit hole because, as an example, you can have 12.7 volts on a single strand of copper wire but it won’t be able to take a high load. This is why live data is important and knowing how to test things.

It would be useful if you would share some links of which videos you have watched rather than just stating it. A fair few videos on YouTube may well show what fixed someone’s problem and it may be that you have the same fault but that doesn’t necessarily mean that the same fix will resolve the same problem.

You could have bad powers or bad grounds to something.

If you are thinking of using something like a power probe then I would say that you are not experienced enough to use one and I can deduce that from what you have already said.

I’d love a power probe but know how dangerous they can be if you don’t know what you are doing and I would be the first to admit that I wouldn’t dare use one myself and I have a mate who has taught me a lot about diagnostics!!!

[Mick c]

Hi thanks for your help . It's not a probe as I mistakenly said earlier. It's a tracer to detect shorts without damaging wires or insulation. My idea was to attach to the wire on connector and to trace along the loom to see if there was an obviously break in the wires which should provide the missing communication?. .

[Rhothgar]

Hi thanks for your help . It's not a probe as I mistakenly said earlier. It's a tracer to detect shorts without damaging wires or insulation. My idea was to attach to the wire on connector and to trace along the loom to see if there was an obviously break in the wires which should provide the missing communication?. .

OK. I know the product you are referring to.

Onviosuly you need to know which wires go where.

Starting circuit wire numbers will typically start 10, 11 or 12 so look for wires at BSI for wire numbers such as 10xx (where 10 is circuit and xx is a wire number) or 11xx or 12xx.

As a general example the wire from your ignition to your starter motor is likely to be marked 1010.

The fuel pressure sensor wires are 1414,1415 and 1416.

The fuel pressure regulator wires are 1418 and 1419. FPR’s operate on a pulse width modulation basis which means it switches on and off and provides a square waveform.

If you are not getting a constant voltage will your tracer find a fault if one exists unless it is a total break? Just playing Devil’s advocate here.

Someone as knowledgable as @wheeler will hopefully correct me if I am wrong

[Mick c]

Hi , that info will help a lot mate . The tracer i got is a basic test for continuity and to test for a definite broken wire . I intend to run along the loom that has been disturbed when i did the injectors and intake manifold and check these areas . Obviously I would prefer to get in a professional but I can't find one that is available at the moment who is mobile . I might just be lucky enough to find a dodgy wire ?. Should be worth a try ?.

[Rhothgar]

I’m not sure if it is worth it. I have no experience of using one.

If it is a complete break then yes but I have found that coincidence often plays a part in things not working.

Last week I was working on my Xantia HDi and long story short it rolled off the ramp and the door got bent. It wouldn’t start afterwards. Cannot even remember how I fixed it.

So I do not know sensitive these testers are but as I said before ONE strand of wire will give you continuity. Load testing is the best way in my eyes but you need to know firstly where each end of the wire is and on Citroens if you have a splice then the other end of the wire can be a different colour AND wire number than the other end!

[Rhothgar]

By the way, if there was. I communication between the CPH (Coded anti-theft device) and the ECU you would have no continuity between terminal 36 on ECU and terminals 19 and 6 on the body computer.

AND/OR no continuity between terminal 66 on ECU and terminal 7 on body computer.

This is based on XANTIA RHZ engine (2.0 HDi 109).

And it would likely throw a P1517 fault code most importantly.

Other checks to make.

Inertia switch has somehow triggered.
Batteries in your key.

The transponder is the last thing to check in the official manual and it is check 24! This is for a non start and NO fault codes.

[Rhothgar]

PM me your reg or VIN as a mate is going to look in his tech data to see if he has diagrams for you.

[Rhothgar]

Have you tried a BSI reset?

Not sure it applies to your vehicle as it does my to any of mine. Might be for later cars.

[Mick c]

Thanks and sorry for the delay getting back to you mate . Flat outbat work as its a 4 day week and working late . If you could get diagrams that would be brilliant . Tried the bsi reset recently and no change unfortunately. I haven't got my vin to hand but can get it later .
Hoping for good weather over the weekend like everyone

[Rhothgar]

Remove your reg from here. Via PM please l. Same for VIN but that will be obfuscated anyway automatically so I wouldn’t be able to see it.

I figured you had an odd shift pattern.