DIY with function over finesse!!

[mickthemaverick]

Well I tackled the pipe issue only to discover the problem was a lot worse than it had seemed at first. The downpipe was full to the elbow just below the gutter so I had to break a low joint and drain it off first. Once empty I split the bottom joint and as I removed the support from below the whole pipe slid down and away from the gutter. As a result I had to remove the brackets and take the entire pipe down whereupon I realised that it was made up of no less than seven sections. Sadly four of the six 'pipe into cup' joins had been installed upside down allowing leakage at the joints and one of the remaining two joints was just a butt to butt taped up!! I decided it is time to renew the entire pipe so I have put the old pipes out to grass and I will get a man in to supply and correctly fit the new pipe. The gutter joint is too high for my single section ladder and I just can't be bothered to get the second section out of the garage, as it really is earning its keep as a very well stacked high level shelf now!!

So we shall call in our local man and have the job done including augering the soakaway to improve the draining.

[Paul-R]

Are you / have you power washing the wall to remove the green algae?

[mickthemaverick]

Yes Paul I have done that and at some point when it has dried I'll give it a coat of the garden moss killer which I have used very effectively on the garden walls.

[mickthemaverick]

Another little job came on the radar when I swept up the first big downfall of leaves in the garden yesterday. I use the snow shovel to get them into the bin so I noticed it seemed a bit 'floppy' when I was using it:

The shovel

Close examination revealed a crack:

A nasty crack

Aha I thought a job for my newly acquired polystyrene cement:

Humbrol special for model making

Then I decided that my other recent acquisition may well be useful too:

The garage storage box

The contents

So I opened the crack to allow me to smear the cement along one side and then be held together by the bungee while I inserted the staples:

Prepared for applying the cement

Finally I clipped off the ends and the job's a goodun'!!

[Rp0thejester]

I used to be an avid model builder and I refuse to use humbrol poly cement, it's bliming useless imo. Plastic Weld is way better, dries super quick.

[mickthemaverick]

That's interesting Ryan, I am the exact opposite, I prefer Humbrol cos I find it gives more time to adjust the joint before it starts setting!!

[Rp0thejester]

If I needed to use any poly glue then I used Revell, wasn't as 'stringy' and dried in 15mins if not over used. But plastic Weld is the one for me as it melts the plastic into each other. But being in a shed maybe the fumes got to me

[CitroJim]

Aha I thought a job for my newly acquired polystyrene cement:

And there was I thinking that was for sticking broken parrots back together

[MattBLancs]

Aha I thought a job for my newly acquired polystyrene cement:

And there was I thinking that was for sticking broken parrots back together

Not a specific C3 Picasso adhesive then Jim?

[mickthemaverick]

I'm glad someone cottoned on to my reason for posting the cement!!

[CitroJim]

Not a specific C3 Picasso adhesive then Jim?

Likely held together with the stuff Matt!!!

[Stickyfinger]

If I needed to use any poly glue then I used Revell, wasn't as 'stringy' and dried in 15mins if not over used. But plastic Weld is the one for me as it melts the plastic into each other. But being in a shed maybe the fumes got to me

And there lies its problem.....it can skin over deep joints and keep melting the plastic "internally", this gives the deep joints that then need filling to get a good finish....or worse still a big sink that will need a large correction (if you are a muppet.......I was with one kit ).
I tend to use the TAMIYA Extra Liquid Glue.

[Rp0thejester]

I would never use plastic Weld on an wide gap, as a seam joiner it works perfectly, personally I use it to 'tack' the 2 parts together, if not correct then plastic Weld on the first tacks release it from each other. I like that adaptability. If everything is okay then use on the seam. I have found it really useful on things that have a huge gap by filling it with poly card, weld each side and file down. (Major off topic) I'm not a fan of Tamiya or Hasegawa, shake and bakes imo

[CitroJim]

(Major off topic)

Nothing's off-topic in this forum Ryan

[mickthemaverick]

I went into the garage last week during the afternoon 'ventilation hour' which is the hour that my fan heater and extractor fans run to maintain the dry roof from the condensation issue. Unfortunately I realised that the fan heater had fallen onto its back and was blowing cold air so I decided to investigate. After stripping it down I discovered the thermal fuse had blown, presumably as a result of the intake being blocked when it fell over, and thus prevented a nasty burning possibility.

I ordered a new fuse and this morning set about installing it. Obviously you cannot solder it into place as it is calibrated at 121ºC as you can see here on the old one if you zoom in:

MTMO the blown fuse

It did get me thinking as the original fuse had been riveted in place as shown here by the red arrows:

MTMO the original fuse mounting point

I did not want to drill out and re rivet as the elements are very close and it would probably have ended in disaster!!

So I settled for this work around and it is working fine!! (I also fitted a higher rated fuse as it was all that I could get but still well below 451ºF )

MTMO the new fuse crimped into position

Back in situ now with a strap to stop it happening again!!